other two rich coapes: all which are shaped like unto long cloakes reaching downe to the ground, and which have round capes:

In the higher end of the church, above the chauncell stoode the shrine of St. Cuttbert: which doubtless was verye larg and rich: inasmuch as before itt, and on either side: you may discerne the stones, whereuppon you tread, much worne, and great cavities made by the scrapeing of those that came to worshipp, and offer to this St. And betwixt this shrine, and the higher end and wall of the church, there is a cross ile, which doth allsoe encompass the chauncell: Here still appeares where there were formerly 9 altars which are now demolished: In the window there is placed the picture of St. Cuttbert praying in the Holy Isle,1 the water flowing uppe to his chin: The picture, allsoe in glass, of a frior correcting a nun, and turneing downe the bed cloathes to hir middle: Here in the chauncell, which is very neate, is a most stately deske of brass, 2 which was the part of a candlesticke: which att the Dissolution was throwen into an obscure place, and found butt of late: This was a most mightye vast candlesticke: In the lower end of this Minster, (which is called St. Cuttbers) is St. Maries chapple, which was erected, and added unto the church, by Bishoppe Langley3: Herein is now the consistorie kept: and herein allsoe is a tombe and monument of Bede: Hic jacet in fossa Beda venerabilis Ossa:

In the churchyeard is the tombe of him that was the steward, and disburst the money, when the church was erected of whom itt is reported that all his money being paid overnight: his glove was by a spiritt every night filled, and supplyed: soe as though itt was emptie overnight, yett was replenished next morneing: His hand is made holding a glove stufft with money: and by this meanes was this great worke built: The name of steward of the worke was Huppabella. 4

Uppon the highest hill within this towne is seated this Minster and pallace, and those parts of the streetes of the towne which are

1

According to a statement in Rites of Durham, edited by Canon Fowler, p. 115, the window described in the text must have been in the north aisle of the choir.

2 A notice of the brass lectern, or desk, as it was called, given by Robert Swift, prebendary of the first stall 1562-1599, and rector of Sedgefield, may be found in Rites of Durham, ed. Fowler, p. 206.

It was made out of a portion of the metal of the pre-Reformation paschal candlestick.

3 The beautiful consistory-court or Galilee chapel, built by _Bishop Pudsey (1153-1195) was reroofed, repaired and beautified by Bishop Langley (1406-1437). Of the propriety of this addition to the west part of the cathedral each must judge for himself. See Greenwell, Durham Cathedral, 2 ed. (1886), p. 66.

4

The legend of Hobby Pellel or Hobb of Pelaw, to whom the effigy mentioned in the text is mistakenly ascribed, is discussed by Canon Fowler, Rites of Durham, pp. 169, 301. See Metrical Life of St. Cuthbert, Introduction, p. xii; Raine, Brief Account, p. 64n; and Scriptores Tres., p. 26.

5 The designation of palace as applied to the Castle of Durham, is only preserved in the name of Palace Green, although the latter name is possibly a corruption of Place Green.

seated uppon the same hill, are within the walls, which doe (sic) encompassed with the wall of the citties: This Minster is endowed with mightye large revenewes: Tis said: noe less than 7 or 8,0007. per annum.

Twelve prebends belong hereunto: worth 200 or 300l. per annum: The deanerie worth about 1,4007. and 12 pettie canons about 10l. per annum.7

This hill whereon seated the Minster, and castle is allmost compassed round with the river Weare: over which there are placed two faire bridges: There are 4 or 5 other streetes of the towne and suburbs: placed straggling one from another uppon the hill-topps: Some reasonable hansome houses in this cittie, which is butt poore by reason here is noe trade: this cittie is compassed about with much higher hills than itt is built uppon. Hence in the afternoone goeing toward Newcastle uppon (sic) wee saw Lumley castle which belongs to my Lord Lumley: it's in reasonable good repaire though of noe great strength: neere hereunto, and about 3 mile from Newcastle, there is a towne placed, called Chester in the Streete: The suburbs of Newcastle on this side the bridg are in the Bishopricke, and itt is said: that the counties of Bishopricke and Northumberland divide uppon the middle of Tine Bridg:

NEWCASTLE-UPPON-TINE. This is beyond all compare the fairest and richest towne in England: inferiour for wealth and building to noe cittie save London and Bristow: and whether itt may nott deserve to be accounted as wealthy as Bristow, I make some doubt : Itt is seated uppon the river Tine: the mouth of which river affoardes such a narrow channell att low water, as, itt is said, nott to bee above 40 yards broade: and, att the mouth, there is a great shelfe and bancke of sand: soe as att a high water allsoe itt is most dangerous passage for strangers, inasmuch as they must pass neere to that side of the haven which lyeth close by and neere under the commaund of Tine-mouth Castles: which is a daintie seated castle, allmost compassed with the sea, wherein hath been the fairest church I have seen in any castle: butt now itt is out of repaire, and much neglected: Itt belongeth to the Earle of Northumberland. This

6

A learned paper written by the late Mr. W. H. D. Longstaffe entitled 'Is the Cathedral within the City of Durham '? may be found in Arch. Ael., ser. 2, vol. II, p. 203, in which it is stated that the cathedral-college and precincts were free from the mayor of Durham's jurisdiction, his admission being barred by the Bailey gate, or gaol, which formerly stood across the street where the lines of demarcation ran.

It is stated that previous to the setting up of the Ecclesiastical Commission and to the transfer to that body of the estates belonging to the deanery, to the twelve stalls and to the chapter, the Dean and Chapter of Durham were possessed of an annual income of £100,000. Ex. inf., the Rev. William Greenwell.

8

Tynemouth castle was dismantled three years after it was visited by the Diarist. An exhaustive description of the priory church, part of which was parochial, with a plan, may be found in the new History of Northumberland, vol. VIII.

river conveyes a navigable channell from the sea to Newcastle, which is about 7 miles: and itt doth flow about 6 or 7 miles (as I was informed) above the towne into the countrey: This river is verye plentifully furnished with salmon and over the same, twixt Bishoppricke and Northumberland, there is erected (except London Bridge over Thames and the bridge att Barwick over Tweed) one of the fairest bridges I have mett with in England, consisting of eight arches: London containes 18 arches: Barwick bridg 15: and this of Newcastle 8 arches: Rochester bridge over Medway hath 6 large arches erected with most difficultye and over the deepest channell : and itt is a neate bridg, which hath iron bars placed on both sides : This towne of Newcastle is governed by a maieor,10 a recorder, a sheriffe, and 12 aldermen: Itt hath great revenewes belonging unto itt (as I was informed) att least 5,0007. or 6,000l. per annum: besides great colearies imployed for the use and supply of the commons and poore of the towne: Herein are 5 churches: and St. Nichol: 11 church, which is the fairest, is as neate pewed, and formed with as much uniformitie, as any I have found in England: and itt (sic) as neately kept and trimmed: This towne was assessed to pay 3,5707. towards the building of the late ship12: and Yorke taxed 1,800: and some townes of the countrye contributed with them and paid 7007. part of 1,8007. taxed:

There is every day a markett here kept; and in a daintie markett place. Thuesday and Saturday a mightye markett and much provision comes out of Northumberland: infinite store of poultrye.

This towne (a great part of itt) placed uppon the highest and the steepest hills, that I have found in any great towne: These soe steepe as horses cannott stand uppon the pavements: therefore the daintiest flagged channells are in every streete that I have seen hereuppon may horse or man goe without danger of slideing: Resting here, 23 Jun: I tooke boate about 12 clocke and went downe to Tinemouth and to the Sheeldes: and returned about 7 clocke: itt is about 7

The Three Bridges over the Tyne at Newcastle' are the subject of a paper by the Rev. J. C. Bruce printed in Arch. Ael., 2 ser., vol. x, p. 1. The bridge seen by the Diarist is described in two admirable papers by Mr. Jas. Clephan entitled respectively, 'Old Tyne Bridge and its Cellars and Old Tyne Bridge and its Story.' See Arch. Ael., 2 ser., vol. ix, p. 237 also vol. XII, p. 135. That bridge, flanked with shops and houses like the Ponte Vecchio at Florence, was destroyed by the Flood of 1771.

10 At the time of the Diarist's visit the mayor of Newcastle was Ralph Cock, the sheriff, John Marley, and the recorder, Sir Thomas Riddell.

11 The town of Newcastle was, and in some respects is still, one parish, with St. Nicholas's as the parish church. There were three urban parochial chapels, viz. St. Andrew's, St. John's and All Saints', together with the free chapel of St. Thomas on the Tyne bridge, belonging to the Hospital of St. Mary Magdalen. The two rural chapels of Gosforth and Cramlington were also dependent on the parish church of St. Nicholas.

12 Particulars of the attempt of the Crown to levy ship money in Newcastle may be found in the third volume of Mr. Richard Welford's Newcastle and Gateshead.

miles: Here I viewed the salt-workes wherein is more salt workes, and more salt made then in any part of England that I know, and all the salt here made is made of salt water: these pans which are not to bee numbred beeing placed in the river mouth: and wrought with coales brought by water from Newcastle pitts:

A most daintie new saltworke lately here erected: which is absolutely the most compleate worke that I ever saw :

In the breadth whereof is placed 6 ranke of panns: 4 pans in a ranke: Att either out-side the furnaces are placed in the same manner as are my brother Boothes13: under the grate of which furnaces the ashes fall: and there is a lid or cover for both and by the heate of these ashes: there beeing a pan made in the floore betwixt every furnace which is made of brick: for which allsoe there is a cover: there is boiled, and made into lumps of hard and blacke salt which is made of the brian which drops from the new-made salt, which is placed over a cistern of leade: which cistern is under the floore of the storehouse: which is in the end of the building: These great lumps of hard black salt are sent to Colchester to make salt uppon salt: which are sold for a greater price then the rest: because without these att Colchester, they cannott make any salt.

These 24 pans have only 12 furnaces, and 12 fires: and are erected in this manner: all being square, and of like proportion: They are placed by two and two togeather one against the other: The 6 pans in the highest ranke, the bottom equall with the top of the lower:

The highest pans are thrice filled, and boiled till itt begin to draw towards salt: then a spiggott beeing pulled out, the brian thus prepared, runnes into the lower pans: which brings itt to a larger proportion of salt, then otherwise: gaines time and saves fire: because itt must bee longer boiled in the other pans, and would spend fire which is saved by reason of the heate which derives from the furnace of the upper pan, which by a passage is conveyed under the lower pan which passage is about half a yard broad in the bottom, and is, att the topp, of the breadth of the pan which rest uppon a brick wall which is of the thickness of one bricke att top: and this concavitie under the lower pans is shaped slopewise like unto a kilne: narrow in the bottom, and broade att the toppe: and this heate, which is conveyed under, and makes the lower pans to boile, comes togeather with the smoake, which hath noe other passage, under these pans through loope holes, or pigeon holes, which is conveyed into a chimneye: a double ranke whereof is placed in the middle of this building: betwixt which is a passage for a man to walke in : In the middle of every (sic) these chimneyes is there a broade iron plate, which is shaped to the chimney: which as itt stoppes, and keepes in the heate: soe itt beeing pulled out abates the heate:

Itt is to bee observed that the 12 lower panns are onely to bee drawne twice in 24 houres: and by that time they are readie to bee drawne the brian in the higher pans will bee suffitiently boiled,

13 That is the Diarist's wife's brother.

and prepared to bee lett into the lower: which are onely to bee drawen, and that twice in 24 houres: they yeeld every of them every draught two bowles, which is worth 2s. a bowle; and sometimes. 2s. 4d. soe every pan yeelding every day 4 bowles14 att two draughts which comes to 8s. Od.: all 12 pans are worth every day 47. 16s. Od. Soe as all the 12 pans in a weeke make salt worth 281. a weeke: which in the yeare amounts unto 1,4007., accounting 50 weekes, to the yeare:

Two men and one woeman to gett out ashes, and one to pumpe their brian, manage and tend this whole worke: the mens wagis is 14s. a weeke: besides hee that pumpes: This salt is made of saltwater which out of a brian pitt made which is supplyed att full sea, is pumped and by pipes of leade conveyed into every pan: The walk of this house is stone and the roofe of this, and all the rest of the houses wherein are brian-pans are boardes: Touching the proportion of fuell here spent, and some other particulars: Dobson (sic) letter is to bee perused and some further directions are to bee receaved from him:

Here att the Shields are the vastest saltworkes I have seen, and by reason of the conveniencye of coale, and cheapness thereof: beeing att 7s. a chaldron 15 which is 3 waine loade.

Here is such a cloud of smoake, as amongst these workes you cannott see to walke: there are (as I was informed) about 250 houses, poore ones, and low built: butt all covered with boardes: Here in every house is erected one faire great iron pan: 5 yards long, 3 yards and half broade: The bottom of them made of thin plates nailed togeather, and strong square revetts uppon the naile heades about the breadth of the ball of your hand: These panns are 3 quarters of a yard deepe: Ten great barrs there are placed on the inner-side of the pan 3 square 2 inches thicke: every of these great panns (as Dobson informed mee) cost about 1007. and cannott bee taken downe to bee repaired with less than 107. chardge.

Every pan yeeldes foure draughts of salt in a weeke: and every draught is worth about 17. 10s. ; Spent in coale, 10 chaldron of coale att 7s. a chaldron: which amounts to 31. 10s. Od. in coales: deduct out of 67. there remaines 27. 10s. Od.: besides one mans wagis.

Soe as in these 250 panns there is weekly spent in coles 7751.: every pan yeelding 67. weekely: beeing 250: tote-all of the worth of the salt made in them amounts 1,5007.: gained 7357.: deduct of this 1207. workemens wagis for makeing itt 120: cleere gaine about 6001. a yeare.

14 In Northumberland salt, corn, coal, lime and some other things were sold by the measured boll. The old boll' contained six bushels, the 'new boll' two bushels. In 1856 the boll of coal was computed to contain 9,676.8 cubic inches, or 34-899 imperial gallons. See Heslop, Northumberland Words.

15 The Newcastle chaldron of coal was originally 2,000 lbs. and is now computed at 53 cwt. In measure a chaldron contained about 7 bolls. A keel of coal is eight Newcastle chaldrons. See Heslop, Northumberland Words..