The dinner bill for 1817 appears to have been made out with much greater discretion-the wine being merged into the dinner. The cost per guest for dinner and wine being a guinea and a-half.

It would be interesting to know on what principle the invitations were issued. Someone appears to have been invested with full authority to extend the list, inasmuch as twenty-one persons enjoyed the hospitality of the wardens in 1817 against fifteen in 1816. The caterer for this year evidently did his work in princely or rather bishop-ly style: four chaises and a Landau and four horses being employed to convey the jovial party to Coleshill.

That this partiality for good living was not confined to one day in the year, we may infer from another "little bill" now lying before us, for 'eight dozens of port at £3 per dozen," charged to the wardens (Messrs. Heeley and Bower) for the year 1816.

66

If any of our readers can give us information in reference to these annual festivities, and tell us how long they have been discontinued, and whence the funds were derived to keep them up, we shall be much obliged.

B.

FROM LONDON TO BRUGES.

ON a bright summer's afternoon, in the month of August, 1880, I found myself on board the steamer "Swallow," in St. Katherine's Wharf, bound for Ostend, en route for Bruges. We should have started at three o'clock, but, having goods to load, and passengers' friends to go ashore, it was considerably after that time before we moved. By-the-bye, why will friends stay till the very last moment, to say a last word at the risk of jumping into the river, or of being taken along? "Any more for shore!" shouts the man at the gangway. "Any more for shore!" echoes a score of voices. "I'm for shore! shouts a young man, taking leave of some friends; then some subject that must be told crossing his mind at the last moment, as thoughts always will flash upon one at such times, he hurries back to impart it. The gangway is being drawn in, he rushes along it, leaps ashore, causing breathless anxiety to the passengers, then gives a feeble smile to his friends, as much as to say, "O bless you, it's all right, never did anything easier in my life."

We make a move at last; and, after a little shunting, and stopping, and a good deal of shouting, we at length get free of the maze of ships that surrounds us, and at once commence our voyage.

As the "Swallow" had no peculiarities to distinguish it from any other steamer plying across the Channel, I need not enumerate the ordinary incidents of the voyage beyond the fact that, having unfortunately arrived too late to secure a berth, I spent a cold and sleepless night on deck, arriving at Ostend at four o'clock in the morning.

The Harbour of Ostend is large and deep enough to accommodate very large vessels, and the approach to it is indicated by a pier of open timber which stretches for nearly a mile into the sea.

Our arrival at the Quay, even at this early hour, was greeted by a number of greedy porters elbowing each other for front places; fortunately they were not allowed to enter the vessel unless called for, or, what the consequence might have been to our luggage it is impossible to say.

Not being able to start for Bruges at once, and being anxious to see as much as possible in the time, I decided to inspect Ostend.

There are some very fine Hotels on the Promenade, also a large Restaurant and Music Hall called the "Casino." This is a round building of light construction, having a great quantity of glass about it; the floor paved in mosaic, and capable of holding, I should say, as many as our Town Hall. It is furnished like an ordinary restaurant, with a plentiful supply of small tables and chairs. On payment of two francs fifty centimes one may have the privilege of using the place for the day. Here the people sit, take refreshments, and listen to the band. There is very little about Ostend that is at all attractive, and that people do not stay here for the scenery is very certain. The visitors comprise representatives of all nations. Big people who come to spend money; and little people who come to make it. Beyond the Promenade are the bathing machines, and a very interesting beach bounded by some desolate sand hills. Bathing is carried on here in true Continental fashion, all the family using the same bathing machine, which is divided into two compartments by a partition, which does not, however, reach to the top; both men and women wearing long costumes.

Having run the gauntlet of the Custom House, I proceeded to the Railway Station. The Railway system is one from which our own companies might borrow some ideas to our advantage. The fare is printed distinctly on each ticket, thus preventing passengers from being easily cheated. The care of luggage is taken entirely out of the traveller's hands. When it is duly weighed, a small charge is made, and a receipt ticket given, on production of which at the end of the journey the luggage is forthcoming; thus saving trouble and risk. The collection and examination of tickets is performed en route-the carriages being so formed that the guard can walk, or rather creep along a continuous footboard, while the train is in motion. In some trains I noticed a passage in the centre, down which the guard walked instead of along the side. The carriages are very heavy and lumbering, and do not travel very fast; there are no side windows, except the door sash. When waiting in the station, a large board indicating the destination of the train is attached to each carriage. As we gradually approached Bruges the scenery improved; but, as a rule, the country round here is very flat, and only relieved by rows of trees, which seem to have a method peculiar to themselves of growing leaves at the top only. The fields are divided from each other and from the road by ditches of stagnant water. The land is cut up into small holdings on the principle of tenant-proprietorship.

Reaping seems to be performed by a method peculiar to the country : the reaper holds a hooked staff in his left hand which receives the wheat from each stroke of the sickle.

After a ride of thirty minutes I arrived at Bruges, once the most important town in Belguim, but now, perhaps, the quietest. Its canals for want of navigation are covered with weeds and water-lilies, and the odour in some parts is anything but pleasant. The principal point of interest is the Town Hall with its celebrated belfry so quaintly described by Longfellow :

"In the market-place of Bruges stands the belfry old and brown,

Thrice consumed and thrice re-builded, still it watches o'er the town." The illustration to this paper is the belfry and market-place or "Grand Plas," and a view on one of the canals with the belfry and the Palais du Franc in the distance. In this tower is a celebrated clock with a set of 48 bells which chime every quarter; after which, another bell denoting that there is no appearance of fire, is rung. A watchman is always on duty in the belfry so as to ring the bell and give the alarm. in case of fire. The bells are worked after the manner of a musical box; there is a large cylinder having square holes in the surface at regular intervals, in some of which are placed stops. As the drum revolves the stops move pieces of wood so as to pull the hammer of the bell. The chimes are very sweet, but I was not able to distinguish any definite tune. It is possible, by altering the position of the stops, to change the tune, which is done every third year.

The effect of these bells is so beautifully expressed by the poet to whom I have already referred, that I shall be pardoned for making one more quotation :—

"In the ancient town of Bruges,

In the quaint old Flemish city,
As the evening shades descended,
Low, and loud, and sweetly blended-
Low at times, and loud at times,

And changing like a poet's rhymes-
Rang the beautiful wild chimes
From the belfry in the market

Of the ancient town of Bruges."

Among other buildings of interest is the Cathedral, which contains pictures by Memling and others, a splendid pair of brass gates, and some good oak carving. The interior is totally spoiled, all the columns and walls having been daubed over with paint. So much for modern ideas of beauty. The Church of Notre Dame and the Hospital of St. John are well worth a visit.

The latter contains a splendid collection of paintings by John Van Eyck, and Memling, and the celebrated shrine of St. Ursula also painted by Memling. Both these artists painted at Bruges about the middle of the fifteenth century. Memling having resided here most of his life.

The general appearance of Bruges is very pretty. The streets, however, are very narrow, and are paved with small blocks of stone.