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hill together, sailed across the lake in an the Atlantic; the brooks had been oblique direction, and separated at the swollen during the night by heavy rains ; beautiful island of Luss. From thence and proceeding past a range of waterI proceeded to Inchlavennech for the falls, partly descending in foam from the island of the two women), which com rocks, and partly appearing like threads mands a fine view of the lake itself, its of silver twisted among the heather of shores and the surrounding hills. The the hills, I reached the dismal vale of greater namber of these islands are Glencoe. Here the hills are mere naked merely sheep-pastures, and it is only on masses of stone; not a single thicket is the largest that houses are to be seen, to be seen, and along an extent of ten I entered into conversation with the miles there is no human habitation. boatman, who was a very pleasant old But for the numerous brooks which man: he taught me several Gaelic words, flow over the hills, uninterrupted still and readily gave , me information on ness would prevail throughout this disevery subject on which I questioned trict; and the brooks can never dry up, him. I expressed my surprise at the owing to the proximity of the ocean, nuinerous tlocks of sheep which I saw which envelopes the hills in continual feeding among the hills without any mist and clouds. I spent the whole day one to take care of them. He answered in wandering about this wilderness, and that these sheep were seldom known to in the evening I joined a numerous party stray, and that it was no uncommon at Inverary, where, owing to the arrival thing for those who happened to be of the steam-boat from Glasgow, up' sold, to wander to the distance of 40 wards of fifty persons had collected in miles, and return to the flock to which the inn. The neat little town of Inthey had originally belonged. I asked verary, which belongs to the Duke of him whether he thought it possible that Argyle, is situated at Loch Fyne, an ina sort of friendship could arise between let of the Atlantic, well known to epianimals who had been long accustomed cures, as the herrings caught there are to each other'ssociety; and he emphati- accounted the best in the world, Now cally answered : “ Sir, there can be that the use of steam-boats has become no doubt of that."
general throughout Scotland, Inverary The sun had nearly set when I quit- is three or four times a week the rendezted the island of Inchlavennech; and I vous of the inhabitants of Glasgow, who was about 9 miles distant from Tarbat, escape from the bustle of trade and; where I proposed to pass the night. I manufactures, and throng hither to enproceeded along a beautiful road on the joy the beauties of nature. The boat westem side of the lake. The recollec- leaves Glasgow in the morning, and tion of this evening, which I shall ever arrives at Inverary, a distance of seventy consider as one of the most delightful miles, in the evening : the price of the of my life, is still strongly engraven in passage is ten shillings, and the boat my mind : in proportion as the con- affords the best accommodation. tours of the hills became more and, With respect to vegetation, the counmore undefined, the roaring of the sea try about Inverary forms a singular exbecame the more audible; and from one ception to other parts of the western of the distant glens, the tones of the coast of Scotland. Of the woods celebagpipe resounded in a peculiarly plain- brated by Ossian, scarcely any trace retive style. It was now quite dark, and mains, and trees no longer Aourish on I began to fear that the inn of Tarbat those spots which were formerly covered had escaped my observation, and that I by them. This change of climate is had gone past the town. I entered a particularly, apparent in the Hebrides, house on the road side, where I saw a where, in the course of excavations, the light, and in one of the rooms I found roots of ancient oaks have been disa man in bed reading the bible. He covered, below a soil, on which, at the informed me that I was not more than present day, trees never grow higher 200 paces from the inn; but he would than the walls erected to protect them not allow me to quit the house until I against the west winds. The hills of had tasted of a bottle of whiskey which Inverary are, however, still covered with he drew from under the bed.
the remains of these ancient woods. Pursuing my course to Inverary on But the castle of the Duke of Argyle is the following day, I passed through the the chief object of attraction to the cuwildest and inost romantic part of the rious, and it is reckoned one of the Highlands. Two miles from Tarbat I wonders of the Highlands. It is built arrived at Loch Long, a great inlet of in the Gothic style, on a most costly
scale; and the sum which is annually within the district of Appin : this was devoted to keeping it in repair, namely, the scene of many events in the life of 30001. may afford some idea of its mag- Fingal, and the hills of Morven, celenitude. The plan of the 'edifice is that brated by Ossian, are on the opposite of an old fortress, and it is built of a coast of the inlet into which I sailed. light grey kind of stone, produced in I would fain have crossed the small arm this part of the country. I spent the of the ocean, and entered the kingdom of morning very agreeably in viewing the Fingal, but there happened to be no delightful park in which the castle is convenient place at which I could pass situated, and then set out on my way the night. Morven is an island about to Oban. Faujas St. Fond has given a twenty miles long and ten broad; it is minute description of the mineralogical almost uninhabited; the hills and narcuriosities of the district, in which are row glens produce no vegetation but situated the village of Oban and its con- heath, on which thousands of sheep are venient harbour. Its proximity to the fed. It belongs exclusively to ocean, and the view it commands of the wealthy landholders ; for here, as is uniislands Kerrera and Lismore, together versally the case in the Highlands, it with the blue hills of Mull, one of the is found more profitable to let land to largest of the Hebrides, render it truly one or two rich farmers, than to parcel romantic. Oban is usually visited merely it out among poor families. This cruel for the sake of procuring a passage to system is the main cause of the depoStaffa, the celebrated basalt island. pulation of the Highlands; for the proThis was also my intention, though I prietor by letting his land to one or two was obliged to relinquish it, partly on rich farmers, compels the poorer ones, account of the adverse state of the wind, who formerly occupied it, to wander to and partly through the exorbitant de- distant parts of the country in quest of mands of the boatmen: it certainly a subsistence. The name of Morven vexed me not a little to observe that now belongs only to this little piece of these men, whom I generally found re- land; but the Morven of Ossian exmarkably honest and civil, should at- tended over the greater part of the tempt imposition on account of the
coast of the Highlands. I great influx of visitors. To be disap- passed the whole afternoon in this place pointed of visiting Staffa, was to me a without meeting a single person; and on great sacrifice ; for I have been inform- arriving near Balichulish, where I ined that all the wonderful descriptions tended to pass the night, I saw a piece which travellers have given of that island, of stone, about nine or ten feet high, are far short of the inpression it creates. fixed in the earth : it was in the form
At a short distance from Oban are of an obelisk, and proved to be a piece the ruins of Dunolly, a castle which of gneiss. This was the first monubelonged to the House of Lorn, famed ment of the kind that I had met with ; in Scottish history. Near the shore of erected in sight of the hills of Morven, Loch Etive there is a piece of rock of it was probably the funeral monument pudding-stone, which is interesting of some hero of Fingal. from the popular tradition connected I had proposed, on the following day, with it. It is called in the Gaelic not to take the direct road to Fort Wil language clach-na-caw, or the dog's pillar; liam, but to proceed through Glencoe and the common people assert that Fin- and across the hills, distinguished by gal has often tied his dog Bran to this the singular name of the Devil's staircase. piece of rock. On the first day of my My host doubted whether I could find journey from Oban, I proceeded through iny way across the hills; he shook his a tract of country celebrated in the early head, and gave me a direction in broken history of Scotland. In the vicinity of English, and also a letter to a man who Dunstaffnage I passed the ruins of an could conduct me over Loch Leven's old royal castle; and on crossing Loch Head, where the bridge was broken. A Etive I reached the site on which Bere. fine road leads through Glencoe, the gonium, the ancient Scottish capital, most celebrated, but at the same time once stood. According to tradition, the dreariest valley in the Highlands. this place was destroyed by subterrane- Glencoe was the birthplace of Ossian, ous fire; and a young man of the neigh- and the little rivulet which runs through bourhood inforined me, that stone was it and forms a lake in the centre, is the found here that would swim on the Cona, in allusion to which, the bard water, probably a kind of pumice-stone. frequently styles himself the Voice of I crossed Loch Ereran, and arrived Cona. The hills which surround this
valley and give it the appearance of an a miserable public-house, and not being immense basin, are merely masses of inclined to pass the night there, I was naked stone of the most various forms, obliged to go back, to the distance of 17 intersected by water-falls in every direc- miles, in order to return to the place tion. Besides the recollection of Ossian, whence I had set out in the morning. this valley obtained in the last century, Here I cannot forbear mentioning a a melancholy kind of celebrity through trait which reflects honour on the Scotthe massacre of the Macdonalds. The tish character. Night had set in, and I house of Macdonald of Achrichtan, is was chilled with cold and rain, when I now the only habitation which the arrived at the inn from which I had valley contains. I proceeded slowly originally set out: the landlord expressthrough Glencoe, not much heeding ed much concern on finding that his the penetrating mists which drenched directions had proved useless ; the best me to the very skin. A continual refreshment which the place afforded motion of the mists is daily apparent was instantly set before me, and next here, and is a peculiarity of this region morning when I demanded my bill, I of imaginary phantoms. "I unexpectedly could neither induce the man to give it passed through this valley twice instead me, nor prevail ou any one in the house to of once; for by taking a wrong course accept the smallest recompense for their across the Devil's staircase, I arrived at trouble. (To be concluded in our next.)
THE HERMIT'S SKETCHES THESE delightful sketches of English But we are not only puzzled to imamanners have a mystery about them gine who could have written these which we cannot penetrate even by works, but surprised at the variety of guesses. The most cursory reader will agreeable pictures which they contain of enquire with eager curiosity by whom a class of society, whose peculiarities they are written. He must have been a have long been gradually vanishing. We votary at once of gaiety and of letters scarcely imagined that, in this degeneconversant with all the varieties of so
rate age, the world of fashion had ciety, from its lowest to the most ex- enough of prominent characteristics left alted ranks-a trifler and a philosopher to furnish one volume without carica-a man of fashion, and a lover of the ture or scandal. Time was when it had romantic, He is at home alike in town a romance of its own; when its heights and in country—at Edinburgh and at required no mean ambition to reach London—and hits off with equal felicity them; and when its glittering honours the enticements of a hackney coachman were bright enough almost to reward a essaying to procure passengers, and the life of assiduity and toil. Then infinite matrimonial schemes of an accomplish- airs and graces were requisite to retain a ed dowager. No one can doubt for a supremacy of fashion; then courtesy had moment that he has long been familiar something in it of the ideal ; then airy with the highest and most glittering wit and delicate raillery were native to circles, which he describes with an ease the drawing-room as to the stage ; then so graceful, and satirizes with a humour the art of dress was really one of the fine so genial and free from gall. Yet it is arts, and excellence in it was almost a equally evident that his study of the proof of genius. Then a masquerade gayest ranks has not injured his sympa- was a temporary revival of the age of thies for those sorrows which are the chivalry. What a magnificent scene common lot of his species, or for those was exhibited at every ball-what rich errors which destroy the happiness which brocades, what high sparkling stomanature offers. Light and airy, as most chers, what grand circumference of of his delineations are, there is more of hoop, what looks of young, beauty, real heart in them than in many works heightened by the antique richness of professedly sentimental; and he often the draperies, what stately pyramids of makes us feel seriously and intensely, head-dress, what generous restraints of while he is captivating us by the pris- curl! Then the gracious unbendings of matic hues, in which he sets many- the lofty dowager, and the rarely becoloured life before us.
stowed smile of the toast of all the wits
The Hermit in London, or Sketches of English Manners, 5 vols. 12mo.
-were they not worth dressing or fight- plays. What tavern suppers--what high ing for? The entrance of a young lady convivialities what romantic adveninto the world, was an event then which tures at masquerades, chequered their excited as much futter of expectation gay career! In proportiou as the study as the appearance of a novel by the au- of the law was difficult, their enjoythor of “ Waverley,” or a poem of ments were intense, and their recreaLord Byron, does in these literary times; tions tasteful. They whetted their wits --and deserved it as well. Then taste on “ Coke
upon Littleton;" and caught was not banished to circulating libra- a keen appetite for pleasures in the reries; nor had elegance taken refuge in gions of black letter learning. Now books, and become a dead letter. Now, their prerogatives of criticism are transalas! the height of indifference is the ferred to the newspapers, their poetry to height of fashion ; the art of dress af- the Magazines, their direction of the fords no scope for high fantasy; cour- theatres to the apprentices and their tesy is out of date; and the refinements wit~Heaven knows whither! They of gallantry are tales of old! The de- care nothing for new plays ; lounge into mocratic spirit of the times may, in some the boxes at half-price to pass away the degree, be attributed to the change. time; admire Miss Foote, like all the When the people, at their public places world, and encore Miss Stephens, be of resort, enjoyed the spectacle of rank cause nobody can help it. Some of and beauty, fitly apparelled in visible them read and work hard, with a view splendours, they were proof against ar to the seals; but the gay ambition of guments on the natural equality of the shining for the night, and mingling inspecies. The divinity that did hedge tellect with enjoyment, and refining the the aristocracy of the higher orders, was tastes of the age is, we are afraid, retoo palpable to be disputed. The eye tained by comparatively few of the once was fed' with high pageantry in repay- celebrated Templars. ment for the taxes. Now 'the higher In such a state of society the produce orders have not only resigned the dis- tion of these volumes required no small tinctions of dress, but have ceased to length of observation, and no low degree visit the scenes where they formerly of ingenuity and of skill. For though, condescended to receive and to commu as we have already hinted, they are not nicate pleasure. They long ago deserted confined to that elevated class of which Ranelagh—they have almost cut the ope- the author is evidently a member, the ra—and they have quite cut the theatre, far larger portion of them is devoted to “ which is the unkindest cut of all.” its splendid circles : all the varieties It was a glorious spectacle to see the which it presents—its airiest vanities boxes waving with feathers, and glitter- and minutest charms-are seized by the ing with gems; to perceive sympathy author, and pourtrayed in their most demaking its way through the rich folds of licate shades. The Hermit" in the the stomacher; to see the fairest eyes suf- Country,” indeed, catches as he ought fused in tears “ which sacred pity had more of sentiment than in London, and engendered there ;" to feel at once all extends his views of humanity with his the distinctions of rank and all the com- horizon. He is meditative on the seamunity of nature, the high privileges of coast, jovial in Scotland, and poetical in station, which were a treasure to the Britainy. The good nature of his reimagination, and the higher rights of marks every where is as conspicuous as humanity, which were set mantling in his good sense; and his Sketches will, the heart. Surely this was better than we think, be almost as instructive as moving in cold private circles without they are amusing. We shall give two the joy of being admired or excited extracts from the “ Hermit in the than lounging at a French play, or going Country," which has only just issued to sleep at a concert of Italian music! from the press; one of them will afford
There is another class too, who of a specimen of the author's gayest, and yore gave life and animation to the the other of his more serious style. town—now alien from their once happy distinctions—the students of the Inns AN EXQUISITE's LIFE IN THE COUNTRY. of Court. What energy had they once in their pleasures, what influence on
“The solitude of a country life is fitted the tastes of the age ! They were
only for the saint, the sage, or the philoso
pher. To any other man it loses its charms, among the gayest in the Parks, were
when he cannot enjoy them in company wittiest among the wits, critical amidst with friends and fellow men. To see a fine the poets, and arbiters of the fate of prospect, an enchanting wood, a limpid
able to say to somer aterfall, without being turned into cash, their corn and hay at the , a
"What a lovely market, instead of in their fields, is their scene *** saddens the heart of man.' Society sole delight; that their tenants are only the is as necessary for the country as the town; tributaries to their pleasures, and their focks but the man who transports town habits food for their table ; and that they care and pleasures into the bosom of' nature, neither for family pedigree, nor family estate, loses the fountain and the grove, the ver- except as they can make them conducive to dant lawn, and the delicious retirement their consequence and luxuries. which country scenery, and a country life “There is a depravity in all this which present.
absolutely denaturalizes the heart ; but, as "To meet the sun upon the upland lawn, this is the object we have at present in view, to watch his majestic rising from the gilded let us peruse the life of a certain nobleman East, to contemplate the rosy-fingered morn- at his family castle, surrounded by majestic ing, opening the day upon man, to view the woods, lakes, and forests, peopled for his prismatic colours reflected in the drops of use; a numerous and faithful tenantry, and dew, to brush that dew with early foot from the most romantic scenery which the eye the shrub and floweret in our healthful walk, can possibly view. to behold the glories of the setting sun, or Engaged in London until July, and at the silvery moon-beam playing on the sur. Brighton until December, he gets down to face of the quiescent lake, to admire the ex- this ancient cdifice, the pride of his ancespanded rose-bud, and to watch the progress tors, about the first week in January, and of nature in its spring, are amongst the leaves it in March, just as the days are loveliest and sublimest enjoyments, and are lengthening, and increasing the ennui which unknown in the busy haunts of vicious and the contemplation of rural objects occasions populous cities. The country, retirement, him. health, order, sobriety, and morality, can “Surrounded by foreign cooks, confectionalone furnish them.
ers, and fiddlers, he travels all night, and " There are fashionables, however, who arrives at day-break. His effeminate form expect to make nature subservient to their sinks for a few hours on down ; and he rises babits and caprice, every where, and in every in the afternoon. The breakfast-table is thing; and who, not content with bringing covered with delicacies, and with the prosummer in January, into their painted and vocatives necessary to excite a sated appegilded saloons, by rare shrubs, Aowers, tite. Gamblers and demireps, dandies and plants, and the expensive contents of their adventurers, compose his numerous party. conservatories, added to the forced fruits and “ The weather is odious,” says he: “ what other articles of ruinous luxury with which a bore the country!" He comes there only their boards abound, madly expect to trans- for fashion's sake, and in order to raise his mit town enjoyments, and dissipation, into rents. His spirits are low; brandy alone the country, in order to lead the same un- can save him from the blue devils ; he varied course of voluptuousness and riot all swallows the liquid fire. The billiard-table the year round. In contradistinction to occupies five hours, his toilette takes two what we hear of “tus in urbe,” it is with more. them urbs in rure; and not satisfied with “ The second dinner-bell has rung; it is turning day into night, and night into day, past eight, and he descends to his banquetin town, they convert summer into winter, ting room. All here is pomp and pageantry : by passing it in London, or at some water- nothing is rational. “Foreign wines and ing-place, where they only go as an adjourn- cookery compose the fare. Excess reigns ment of the London spring, and then travel over every thing. Intemperance plies the down to the country, to view leafless trees, frequent cup, and vocal and instrumental fields clad in snow, and to be either con- music breathe their most voluptuous sounds. fined to the house, or to brave bad weather “ Now comes the hour of gambling. His for a short time for form's sake.
woods, his lands, his moveables, are all “Wedded to the London system of rising hazarded again and again : ten times in the in the evening, riding at dusk, and dressing night they are lost and won. A castle totby taper light, they carry the same unnatu- ters on a single card : the comfort of his ral and unwholesome arrangements to scenes tenantry depends on one throw: agitation 'which would have furnished a retreat full of and ill'humour ebb and flow : avarice and charms, if visited in the spring, or in the ruin stare each other in the face. The summer. For them the feathered choir game is over. He has lost only two or three chaunts in vain ; for them the flower ex. thousand: and the grinding of a few farmers pands not ; all is haze, fog, and darkness, will rub off his score. He goes to bed. unless perchance the rising sun blushes at Conscience has nothing to do with him ; their orgies, or reminds them that the day for these are only considered as the peccahas opened ere they retire to a feverish bed. dillos of fashion.
“There are rakes and debauchees who un- “ Occasionally he sallies forth in the evenblushingly tell you that they only wish to ing with a legion of liveried attendants. see their family mansion order to collect The woods are surrounded; the birds are their tents; and that to behold their woods circumvented ; the cover is beaten. Armed New MONTHLY Mag.–No. 78.