wood-lands. A keen December air imparted an additional tinge to complexions naturally rosy; and to the eye of a poet, some of our fair companions, in their rambles through tangled copses and groves of oak, might have appeared like Dryads. In the course of this promenade, one of the daughters of General La Fayette gave me a circumstantial account of his imprisonment at Olmutz, and of the sufferings both of himself and family. The story is long, and its leading incidents would not be new to any of my readers. One little anecdote, however, which gave relief to the tragic tale, so much amused me, that I cannot forbear to repeat it. In their flight through Austria, the female part of the family were obliged to assume the guise of English travellers, in order to elude the vigilance of their enemies. As they had some knowledge of the language, to which was added a similarity of national dress, they succeeded tolerably well among strangers. At length they were thrown in contact with an English waiting-maid, who had emigrated to the continent some years before. Serious fears of detection were here apprehended. But the poor girl entertaining no doubt, that the ladies were really English, although she found difficulty in understanding them; and as they were supposed to have left her native country at a much later period than herself, she came to the melancholy conclusion, that by a long residence abroad, she had lost her mother tongue!

In the midst of walks, conversations, and enjoyments like these, the hour of dinner again came round. By this time, our places at table had been as perfectly learned, as if we had become permanent inmates of the Chateau. Another evening of music and social pleasure was added to the sum of our happiness. At 8 or 9 o'clock, an intention was again signified to go to Rosé, in readiness for the Diligence the next morning. But "it would be madness to go to the hotel that night, where the accommodations were not good; besides, it was snowing, and the weather was unpleasant: a servant should be sent to engage places for us, and it would be easy to reach the village by 8 o'clock, the hour for the departure of the coach on the following day." In vain were any suggestions opposed to these kind persuasions and at 10 o'clock, we retired for the third night to the chambers of the Chateau.

:

The next morning at 7, we found both the General and his son in the drawing-room before us, with coffee upon the table, and his own coach at the door, in readiness to take us to Rosé. In a few minutes more, a cordial grasp of the hand and the parting benediction of the patriarch, produced a state of feeling, which on our part admitted of few words; and we left La Grange with a full conviction, that if there

is a paradise on earth, it must be found in the domestic, unsophisticated and innocent delights of such a family, and if unalloyed happiness be the portion of any mortal, it must consist in the luxury of such feelings, and in the practice of such virtues, as are possessed by General La Fayette.*

* In justification of the foregoing sketch, it may not be improper to remark, that my sole object was to present a domestic picture of La Grange. The events in the military and political life of General La Fayette-his character as a soldier, a statesman, and a philanthropist—his public services and private virtues, are so universally known through the medium of books of history, biography, and travels, that I have studiously avoided an allusion to any of these topics, on which nothing new could have been advanced, or presented to my readers in a more acceptable form, than may be found in the writings of others. Such a picture of domestic life as I have attempted to draw, must necessarily be made up of little items and incidents, which in some instances may seem trifling and unfit to meet the public eye. But it is enough for me to know, that a sketch of objects, which I supposed would be interesting to the people of the United States, has not forfeited the friendship of the best of men and the most estimable of families; while it has had the good fortune generally to meet the approbation of the American public.

LETTER XXXIX.

PARIS CONTINUED-PANTHEON-LAW SCHOOL-OBSERVATORY-AMERICANS IN PARIS-STYLE OF FRENCH DINNERS-CHURCH OF ST. SULPICE-SCHOOL OF MEDICINE--ANATOMICAL MUSEUM-NATIONAL INSTITUTE--GREAT MEN-PHILOSOPHICAL, CHEMICAL, AND MEDICAL

LECTURES.

January, 1826.

SEVERAL calls were made at the Pantheon, now the church of St. Genevieve, which presents a noble front, surmounted by a dome little inferior in grandeur, and fully equal in the beauty of its proportions to that of St. Paul's at London. A lofty porch, 112 feet in length, and supported by twenty-two Corinthian columns, each fifty-eight feet in height, and five feet and a half in diameter, form the entrance. The dimensions of the church are 337 feet by 253, in the form of a cross. Long ranges of 130 Corinthian columns support the galleries of the interior; and the dome rests on a rotunda of fifty-two additional pillars, each fifty-four feet in height, the whole forming a specimen of architectural magnificence seldom surpassed. Some innovations have been made upon the simplicity of the dome, by the necessity of giving it a firmer support, and an attempt to conceal the alterations by splendid gildings and paintings. This edifice was designed as a temple dedicated exclusively to the great men of France, where their ashes were to be deposited in a gallery of vaults below, and their names recorded as a testimonial of public gratitude for their services. As the religious edifices of Paris were already sufficiently numerous for the accommodation of all the piety discoverable among the ecclesiastics, and the design of this building was unique, it is to be regretted, that its original character has been changed. The priests have manifested such a hostility to the plan, as to disturb the ashes of the dead, and to remove the remains of Voltaire and Rosseau to an obscure vault.*

* In November, 1826, I paid another visit to this church, in company with the author of the Spy, on the great festival of Toussaint, when the aisles were thronged with votaries, clouds of incense rose from the altars, and the chorus of a thousand voices was reverberated from the dome. It was rather an impressive spectacle; though the Pantheon, both in external grandeur and the splendour of its internal decorations falls infinitely short of St. Peter's at Rome, to which it has by some been likened. All temples made with hands must suffer by a comparison with the glories of the Vatican.

Near the Pantheon stands the College of Law, presenting a plain but majestic porch of the Doric order. The school has seven professors, who lecture on the Roman, Civil, and Commercial Law, together with the Practice of the Courts. Students are required to attend regularly for two years, to obtain a degree of bachelor; three years for a license to practice; and four, to secure a doctorate. The examinations are said to be rigid, and the French lawyers well versed in their profession, which however appears to be much less prominent than with us. The same distinction prevails here as in Scotland, between the attorney and notary, the latter being exclusively employed in conveyancing.

In the afternoon of a bright day we paid a visit to the Observatory, which occupies an eminence near the garden of the Luxembourg. A broad avenue opens in a direct line with the Palace. This lofty structure, which covers a large area, and is built entirely of stone, even to the vaulted roof, without the aid of either wood or iron, stands precisely in a north and south direction, the meridian of Paris passing through the centre. In altitude, it may be said to extend from the lower regions to the skies; for a shaft opens from the top, through all the stories, and thence pierces the crust of earth into the catacombs beneath the city. It is used for measuring the accelerated velocity of falling bodies, as well as for astronomical observations. We climbed to the top of the edifice, and had a charming view of the city and its environs, just at evening. Four lines of telegraphs were in sight-one running over Montmartre to the English Channel; another south, to the Pyrenees and the Peninsula; a third to the north of Europe, by Strasbourg; and a fourth to Italy. The signals changed once in a minute or two, and bulletins from Madrid were passing directly over our heads, like "sightless couriers of the air." Intelligence is communicated with almost the rapidity of lightning. In my opinion, telegraphs might be much more extensively introduced into our country to advantage. The Observatory is furnished with an extensive apparatus, consisting of excellent glasses and instruments of all kinds requisite for making observations with the minutest accuracy. Three astronomers are constantly employed, as sentinels of the heavens, being on the alert, and noting every phenomenon, even to the changes of the wind and weather, whence precise meteorological tables are deduced.

On our return towards home, curiosity prompted us to call and examine a unique establishment, which was nothing less than a hospital for sick dogs. The surgeon, who acted also in the capacity of physician, was very polite, taking us through the wards, and describing the diseases of his numerous patients, some of which were from a dis

tance, attracted by the celebrity of his mode of treatment. of them occupies a separate cell, furnished with a couch and vessels for food and drink. The doctor had just been the rounds for the night, dressing wounds and administering medicine. Some of the animals were bundled up in such a way as to present a most fantastic and ludicrous appearance. A Frenchman appears to think almost as much of his dog, as of his wife and children. The animal is the companion of his travels, wherever he may go, and he will "not permit the winds of heaven to visit too roughly" the object of his doting affection, a place for which is often paid for in the interior of a public coach, to the no small annoyance of the other passengers. Dogs are in fact the darling pets, while dumb beasts of a more useful kind are treated in some instances with less humanity.

The delivery of a large package of letters of introduction, had soon after our arrival made us acquainted with a numerous circle of friends, whose hospitality and kindness have greatly contributed to the pleasure as well as the instruction derived from our visit to Paris. There are not less than a hundred of our own countrymen in the city, attracted hither by different objects from all parts of the United States. Several of these belong to the diplomatic corps, consisting of the Minister, his Secretary, the former and present Consuls, together with the Chargé des Affaires at Sweden,* the Consul at the Isle of Wight and his family, and the Secretary of Legation to Madrid, who are passing the winter at Paris. Another class of Americans are residents here, engaged in commercial business, and such other pursuits, as interest or enterprise may dictate. The remainder, like ourselves, are mere travellers or temporary residents, in search of information or health. A large number of young physicians, from almost every city between NewOrleans and Portland, are at Paris for the purpose of attending the medical schools, and completing their professional studies. We met one gentleman from the Green Mountains, another from the banks of the Ohio, and a third from the wilderness of the Arkansas, two or three hundred miles west of the Mississippi-all making the tour of Europe, and comparing the old world with the new. Both the Navy and Army of the United States are ably represented. The former has a Commodore, one or two captains, three or four lieutenants, and as many surgeons; and the latter numbers up its officers to the rank of Majors.

This numerous circle of our own countrymen are actively engaged

* Mr. Somerville, who died during our visit, universally regretted, and was buried at La Grange.