THE

UNITED STATES

AND CANADA,

IN 1832, 1833, AND 1834.

CHAPTER I.

The temporary absence of worldly scenes and employments produces a state of mind peculiarly fitted to receive new and vivid impressions. The vast space of water that separates the hemispheres is like a blank page in existence. There is no gradual transition by which, as in Europe, the features and population of one country blend almost imperceptibly with those of another. From the moment you lose sight of the land you have left, all is vacancy, until you step on the opposite shore, and are launched at once into the bustle and novelties of another world.

WASHINGTON IRVING.

THE Southern coast of beautiful England insensibly disappeared before my eyes from the deck of the American packet, I tried in vain to get a last glimpse of the British Isles. The mantle of night enveloped in obscurity the verdant hills of Cornwall. Adieu to Europe.

VOL. I.

B

Our complement on board consisted of two hundred individuals from almost every country in Europe, besides Americans. Among the English and Irish, there was a large proportion of emigrants, who with wives, children, and servants, quitted their native soil, to seek in distant climes a spot, where taxes of a thousand different kinds and denominations might not absorb their little all. When the whole group assembled on deck, it was a truly interesting scene: the bustle of some, who constantly moved about, instilled spirit in others, apparently inclined to despondency. Yes, many were certainly dejected. They left behind, country, friends, relatives; and who could venture to predict whether they would ever see either again, or tread the shore which contained the ashes of their forefathers, and recalled to their minds so many endearing recollections?

The uniformity of a sea-life generally engenders melancholy; the monotony is insupportable there is no diversity, except in the state of the atmosphere. Whichever way the eye turns, and surveys the circled horizon, no other object is visible but frothing waves, apparently rolling from one side of the blue sky to the other. If a sail heaves

OCCUPATIONS ON BOARD.

3

in sight at a distance, the event may be compared to a messenger sent from another world. In an instant, the whole deck is covered with people, anxious to behold the strange ship: every spy-glass is put in requisition. But, in our case, curiosity was not satisfied with a bare view of her filled canvass; speculation followed as to the identity of her flag, whence she came, and whither bound. Similar rencontres too often produced violent altercations among individuals of so many different nations, some of whom pretended to be wiser than their neighbours; but they were soon quelled, every one returning to his uniform occupation of contemplating the agitated sea— alternately raising or lowering our little republic counting the large shoals of porpoises which faithfully accompanied the ship the whole voyage, or surveying the unchangeable horizon and the swift passing clouds. How often, whilst meditating on the beauty of the immeasurable heavenly arch, have I not fancied I saw a distant shore rising from the deep: the joy, alas! was short-lived: 'twas but a cloud.

of

One evening, when the moon shone forth in all her splendour, the whole company assembled on deck. Glees and songs, variously

A

executed, formed the amusement: every one appeared happy and contented. It was late before retreat to rest was thought of; melodious sounds, but recently heard above, were now re-echoed from the births below. Before daylight, however, these charming dreams were suddenly converted into gloom. dreadful storm greeted the convivial companions at break of day. The first glimpse at an enraged element is truly terrific. From a smooth surface as it had been the preceding night-the sea had risen mountain high; the tops of the waves were as cream-white as the snow-covered Mont Blanc. In the midst of them, our ship was seen dancing, sometimes defying their power, in turn vigorously repulsed by offended masses of water then hidden between two sea-walls, nearly as elevated as the mainmast-and again almost immersed in the immense deep. The winds-those proud aristocrats of the ocean-whistled in the air, and, with the aid of the rigging, performed a most discordant concert. All the passengers were dejected: paleness overspread the features of the women: silent in a corner, with palpitating hearts, they listened to the roar of the tempest and the waves. Children, seized

with fear, clung to their parents, and screamed piteously. Probably, there was no real danger; but a gale in the midst of the ocean is, after all, no joking matter. None, except a person who has actually witnessed a similar scene, can form an idea of the creaking, roaring, and rolling, which incessantly tormented us during four-and-twenty endless hours. The ship rolled the whole time from side to side; and, whenever she changed position, her timbers creaked as when Enceladus turns himself under the weight of Mount Etna. Trunks, carpet-bags, dressing-cases, and desks, were displaced and knocked against each other each time she hove about. Woe to him who happened to be in their way!

Another inconvenience occurred when dinner was announced, which, however, partook a good deal of the ludicrous: the guests were every moment exposed to the danger of receiving in their laps joints of beef and mutton, ducks, hams, potatoes, &c. It was not easy to refrain from laughing on seeing the restless dishes changing situation every instant, sometimes at the top, then at the bottom of the table, and again disappearing altogether under it. But, dinner concluded, mirth also took leave of the company: the