376 THE RATTLESNAKE'S MASTERPIECE.

Many experiments have been made to discover the best means of defence against venomous serpents. I heard a farmer in North Carolina assert that if the hands are rubbed with an herb called the rattlesnake masterpiece, or the root of it is kept in the pocket, any snake will drop down as if dead, and writhe in excessive pain, like a worm in an anthill. I could not ascertain what herb it was, nor do I know if he meant the leaves of white ash, which are said to have a wonderful effect on the rattlesnake. The following experiment was lately made; and, as I entertain no doubt of the authenticity of the statement, I here report it. A few sportsmen were chasing a deer, and happened to fall in with a rattlesnake. Having heard of the effect of the ash leaf on this animal, they hastened to cut off a couple of branches from trees within their reach, one of ash, the other of sugar-maple. Armed with these, they approached the snake, which immediately prepared for battle, hissing with rage. I will finish the story in the words of the narrator himself:

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"I first stretched forth the branch of the ash, and rubbed the body of the animal gently with the leaves. It immediately lowered its

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head to the ground, stretched itself out, instead of coiling itself up, fell backward, twisted, and threw itself into every possible attitude except that of a circle, and appeared to be in the greatest agony. Satisfied with the trial, I laid the ash aside: as soon as the snake perceived this, it again rose, and resumed the same threatening posture as before. I now held out the other branch. In an instant it threw itself upon it, concealed its head among the leaves, and drew back, and re-commenced the attack, advancing its whole body with the celerity of an arrow. After repeating this several times, I suddenly changed the branch, and again rubbed it gently across the back with the ash leaves. No sooner had I done this than it fell backward a second time, and no more ventured to look at its enemy. Curious to see what effect blows from this weapon might have upon it, I struck several times at its slippery body, expecting to see the animal foaming with rage: but the blows did not produce the effect I anticipated; they only served to increase its uneasiness and pain. At each blow, the snake buried its head as deep as it could in the sand, as if to find a passage under the earth, and thus escape its enemy."

But I must resume my narrative of the journey to Charleston. Towards evening, the day following our departure from Fayetteville, we arrived at a small place called Georgetown, on the river Great Pedee, not far from the sea. It was here I first discovered a rice-field, which appeared to me to look like one of oats; the plant itself is not unlike the latter. All rice-fields are in low situations, and require to be often under water, which circumstance occasioning great dampness, the neighbourhood of the plantations is extremely unhealthy, and often fatal to the miserable slaves, who are frequently obliged to stand up to the middle in water.

The stage stopped at a distance of about two miles from Charleston, where the passengers embarked in a boat, rowed by six Negroes, the merriest slaves, without exception, I ever saw. The numberless anecdotes with which they amused us proved sufficiently that these beings, at least, were not unhappy under the yoke of thraldom. Their songs continued till the boat landed us at the port, after having passed the bay between Charleston and the sea, which forms the entrance to the city. The sun had just risen, when I found myself in the streets of Charleston.

CHAPTER XVII.

Le meilleur de tous les plans de finances est de dépenser peu, et le meilleur de tous les impots est le plus petit.

SAY.

CHARLESTON is the second city in size in the Southern States; it counted in 1830 a population of thirty thousand two hundred and eighty-nine souls. Its advantageous situation on an isthmus between two rivers, the Ashley and Cooper, at a small distance from their outlet into the sea, places it in the rank of the most considerable city for commerce, with the exception of New Orleans, south of the Potomac, a rank which I firmly believe it will continue to occupy for a long period. Viewed on the map, the city bears a strong resemblance to New York, but in reality there is no comparison. Charleston, closely examined, has an old and dilapidated appearance,

whereas New York is quite the reverse: there, every thing bears the stamp of freshness. What contributes to give Charleston a different feature is the piazzas and balconies attached to every house; and these, in addition to the trees planted in the streets, called Pride of India, soon inform the visiter that he is arrived in a southern latitude.

The houses are chiefly of brick, and plastered heat, heavy showers, and dust, have, however, taken off the plastering in many places, so that the buildings have a very shabby appearance. This was particularly observable in the churches, the exterior of which indicated only misery and destruction. Almost every house has a garden adjoining, filled with flowers, shrubs, and trees, peculiar to these warm regions; many flowers were in full bloom, although the month of December was at hand. Few streets are paved; they are consequently in a very bad state after the least shower; but, generally speaking, they are regularly planned and tolerably wide.

The climate of Charleston, in winter, is as pleasant and healthy as it is oppressive and dangerous in summer. During my residence there in the last month in the year, the most delightful summer heat continued uninter