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108

AMUSEMENTS OF QUARANTINE.

CHAPTER XII.

SMYRNA. THE MODERN CITY.

The Lazaretto.-Preparations for Comfort.-Amusements of Quarantine.The Gulf of Smyrna.-Appearance of the City.-Population.-Quarters of Franks, Greeks, Turks, Jews, and Armenians.-Houses of Rich Armenians.-Rural Coffee-shops.-English Chapel.-Dutch Chapel.-Ceremonies at the Greek Church.

THE Lazaretto of Smyrna lies a mile to the southwest of the city, in a pretty, retired cove. But as its accommodations were not very good, and above two hundred Turks were to be stowed within its scanty limits, we took a stone cottage near at hand, in a young vineyard, and having engaged a caterer from the city to supply us with coffee at seven o'clock, breakfast at nine o'clock, dinner at four o'clock, and tea from seven to eight o'clock, we had no cause of complaint on the score of fare. But how to bestow ourselves to sleep was a more difficult question. On the second floor six of us spread our quilts in one room some fifteen feet square, three in another half the size, the tenth occupied a closet, while our servants, cooks, and guards coiled themselves up somewhere in the salle a manger below. Thus we spent fifteen days quite pleasantly. Sometimes, under guard, we rowed a boat in the bay, or bathed in its pellucid waters; sometimes walked upon the heights above our cottage, and feasted our eyes on the magnificence of nature, the activity of commerce, the crowded dwellings of the many-tribed and manytongued people who dwelt around, and contemplated the vast abodes of their dead, gloomed by the impenetrable groves of dark cypresses. Then, again, we pitched quoits, tried our skill in throwing the lance in the shape of a ten-foot pole, walked up and down the

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