244 SCUTARI.-GALATA.-PERA. CHAPTER XXX. CONSTANTINOPLE.-THE EUXINE. Scutari.-Tophanna.-Galata, the Commercial Quarter.-Pera.--Palaces of the Foreign Ambassadors.-Peculiar Government of the Franks in Pera.→→ Low Character of the Franks.-Occasional Commingling of the Nations.The Turkish Arabah.-Night in Constantinople.-Excursion to the Euxine.-Shores of the Bosphorus.-Castles of Asia and Europe.-Bay of Stein.-Therapia.-Gulf of Buyukdere.-Forts and Batteries.-The Symplegades.-The Euxine. Or the immediate suburbs, Scutari, on the Asiatic side, is inhabited by 80,000 Turks. On the northern side of the Golden Horn, opposite the city, the Turks inhabit Tophanna, where are the chief foundries, Tersene, above the bridge, where is the arsenal, and Casim Pacha, a height above Tersene. Beyond this, the Greeks inhabit a suburb called Demetri, and the Franks, or Christians who are not subject to Turkey, reside in the centre of these European suburbs, in two separate quarters: the one called Galata, which lies upon the shore, extends up the steep declivity, and is enclosed by a strong wall, and defended by a strong tower. These were built by the Genoese, who were the original Frank settlers under the Greek emperors. This is the commercial quarter, and is occupied chiefly by massive stone warehouses belonging to Franks. There are but few dwellings in it, and but few persons remain at night, and these chiefly Maltese and Island-Greeks of the worst character. Beyond Galata, on the heights, is Pera, the quarter of the Western and Northern Franks. Its name is taken from the Greek preposition signifying beyond, because it was beyond Galata. Pera is a miniature collection of nations, each of which finds its capital and govern PECULIAR GOVERNMENT OF THE FRANKS IN PERA. 245 ment in the palace of its ambassador,* the hotel of its chargé d'affaires, or in the counting-house of its consul. The inhabitants are neither citizens nor subjects of the Porte, but of the several nations to which they respectively belong. They are not amenable directly to the Turkish government for their conduct, but to their respective ambassadors and consuls. Even if a Frank were to kill a Turk, he could not be seized by the Turkish authorities without the consent of his ambassador or consul, if he had fled to him for trial or protection. As most of the Franks are trading adventurers, or fugitives from justice in their own countries, it is not to be expected that they should exhibit the best specimens of Western manners and religion, particularly as they are not in terror of the Turkish vengeance. Not long since, the British ambassador, in a communication to his government, said of Pera, it is "the refuge of the outcasts of Bedlam and Newgate making ready for a residence below;" and an English resident says in his journal," I know that it is common enough, on the arrival of any stranger, to hear remarked, that he must have killed his father, or committed some other crime of equal magnitude, or he * Some of these palaces are of vast extent and of great strength, suggesting the idea of a fortress rather than a dwelling. The palace of the Russian ambassador, which was nearly completed when I left Constantinople, is the most prominent building there. It is seen to great advantage from sea, and is usually spoken of as the Russian fortress. The impression is deep and spreading, that it is yet to be the scene of counsels and conflicts involving the fate of Turkey and the East. The site of the British ambassador's palace was an open garden, surrounded by a strong stone wall. The edifice was consumed not long since, while Sir Robert Gordon was giving a ball at Therapia, on the Bosphorus. Recently, however, Parliament has made an appropriation to rebuild it; and it is to be hoped it will exceed the Russian in magnificence and strength, and that the counsels taken there may be wiser than those in the Muscovite fortress, and when the conflict comes, that the British lion may be found a match for the Russian eagle. But where is the palace of the American ambassador? Our country ought to be honourably and powerfully represented at every principal point in the Old World. 246 OCCASIONAL COMMINGLING OF THE NATIONS. would not have thought of coming to Constantinople." Perhaps these expressions are too highly coloured, yet they contain a great deal of truth. Of course there are many individual and very honourable exceptions. The majority of the Frank population is Catholic. Although the several nations are thus resident in their several quarters, yet they are not so strictly confined as to prevent their being, to some extent, commingled. Some Greeks and Armenians are scattered even through Stamboul, amid the Turkish population, and occasionally a Turkish family is found in Pera. The shores of the Bosphorus are lined with villages from the Propontis to the Euxine, and in these the various nations of the capital commingle more or less. This intercourse of the nations is increasing annually, and tends to extinguish the distinctive Moslem influence, and to increase the Christian. The suburbs offer nothing of interest, except it be the more frequent appearance of the Arabah, or Turkish carriage, which is the only kind seen in the city, and is used only by women. The engraving will sufficiently illustrate its appearance. As evening twilight comes on, one does not see the twinkling lamps beginning to appear in long lines to prolong the day for business, or to light the way to revelry or mirth. But with the night comes silence, and an entire cessation of business, except at the wine-shops, cafés, gambling-rooms, and eating-houses in the Christian and Jewish quarters. No one moves out without a lantern, and even with one he had better return to his lodgings shortly after dark. EXCURSION TO THE EUXINE. At nine o'clock in the morning we stepped into a large 248 EXCURSION TO THE EUXINE. caique at Tophanna, and with four rowers dressed in white, departed for the stormy Euxine, twenty miles distant. I shall not trouble the reader with a minute account of this most captivating of all excursions: nothing on earth can exceed it in beauty and interest. I had read similar expressions of admiration by other travellers, and thought them hyperbolical; but after twice sailing the whole length of the Bosphorus, from the Propontis to the Euxine, I am satisfied that neither pen nor pencil can fully paint to the imagination of the reader the rapid succession of the grand and beautiful in nature and art, and the interesting in history, which this short voyage affords. From the mouth of the Golden Horn to the castles of Europe and Asia, four miles above, the Bosphorus is lined on both sides with villages and palaces, whose foundation-walls are washed by the water, while the declivities and heights above are adorned with terraced gardens and luxuriant groves. There are perhaps a dozen palaces whose gay colours and gilded cornices flash back the rays of the sun, and are reflected in the glassy waves. Together with the forts, batteries, and villages, they form a continuation of Scutari and Tophanna northward |