The men go

the people, for they are laying in their winter stock. out fishing, and when they return with their loads the women take charge of the rest of the work and clean and cure them, besides doing the rest of the house work.

The Priest,-July 21st.-To-day I visited the priest of the village and took tea with him. He is a jovial fellow, and has a young and thriving family about him,-a lady-like wife and six children, the youngest not yet four months old. So it seems the Greek church does not insist on celibacy in their priests. This place beats Cape Ann for children; there are five or six in each family, and they appear all to be about the same size. Going to the priest's house I saw some women at work in a potato patch. They use no shovel or hoe, but dig and plant with their hands. They raise a few turnips and onions, but the season is too short to allow much in the gardening line.

The Standing Fare. This day it has rained quite hard and the men have caught great quantities of fish. Fish and milk are the standing dishes here. They have a small breed of cows which are very tame; these the women milk three or four times a day,-whenever a cow comes in sight of the house she is sure to be milked. I do not believe there are ten pounds of bread or flour in the town. They sometimes barter deer and other skins with the whalers for a few cakes of bread, which they prize highly. Tea and coffee are in like manner scarce. I sometimes got a cup of coffee once in a week at the priest's, and I certainly did not require a second or pressing invitation. Whatever these people have, they appear to wish to make me understand I am entirely welcome to. Thus poverty and hospitalitality go together in this bleak region.

The Dogs.-I counted about the house to-day one hundred and six dogs, the most of them tied up like horses with us, and used for the same purposes. In winter, they draw all the wood, and if the Russian wishes to make a journey of four or five hundred miles, twelve of these dogs are harnessed to a sled, and away they trot at a rapid rate of speed. They will accomplish that distance in four days.

A Religious Custom-Among these people, when a child arrives at the age of eight years, the parents take it to the priest, when he kisses that functionary's hand and receives a blessing. I was present to-day at the house of the priest when a little boy came in accompanied by his mother, and seeing me sitting near the door mistook me for the padre, and crossing his little hands by laying one in the palm of the other, attempted to kiss my hand. This, apparently much to his surprise, and much to the amusement of the good priest and his wife, I declined, when his mother, a tidy looking woman, led him in the right direction.

A Russian Sunday.-I promised to go to church to-day with my friend the priest, but there was a southerly wind with rain, besides which I had a bad headache, and consequently stayed at home. In the afternoon the priest called upon me, and in answer to my inquiry said there were but three persons at church, and they came for con

fession. All the men of the place had gone out hunting or fishing. So much for the Greek church observance of the Sabbath. The peasantry, however, believe their religion to be all right, and they are happy.

At Church,-Sunday, August 2nd.-I went to church to-day. When I entered the building, thinking to find it filled with worshippers, but was surprised as well as amused to find that the priest's student, the bellringer, and myself, formed the entire audience. There were no seats, and I took my station against the left wall, in full view of a fine painting of the Emperor Nicholas, who it seems is a saint in their calendar, and whose picture they appeared to worship quite as much as that of the Saviour. Directly the young priest or student began to read in a Greek Bible in a sort of sing-song manner, which was responded to by a loud voice from an inner room. The door opened, and my old friend the padre made his appearance, talking very loud and making innumerable bows. Meanwhile the bellringer lay prostrate, with his forehead and hands on the floor. This lasted but a minute or so, when the priest, crossing himself, first before the picture of our Saviour, and then before that of the Emperor, laid aside all church business, and came to me with a pleasant smile, his hand extended, and a "Good morning, captain." He then invited me to dine with him, which I did. He is certainly a noble-hearted but simple man, and I have no doubt is thoroughly sincere in his religious belief-made up of mummeries as it may seem to us Protestants. To see him with his long hair knotted behind, a red shirt and black neckerchief, one would not at first sight take him for one of the reverend clergy.

Statistics. I learned to-day that the inhabitants of this town, which they call Eneah, number 295; at a settlement of Tonguse seven miles to the eastward of this there are 206; another W.N.W. of here numbering 190; in all 691 inhabitants under the pastoral care of my friend the priest, for which he receives 800 dollars per annum from the government.

Numerals. I have for several days been learning to count ten in Russian. My teacher is a pretty little girl, about eight years of age, the daughter of my host. For future reference I will write it down.

Six and seven it will be seen are the only words above which bear

any resemblance to English in sound.

(To be continued.)

VISIT OF PRINCE ALFRED TO JERUSALEM.

On the 17th of March all Jerusalem was thrown into a state of the most pleasant excitement by the news that advices had been received at the English consulate the previous night, announcing the arrival at Jaffa of H.M.S. Euryalus, having on board his Royal Highness Prince Alfred, on his way to visit the Holy City. The truth of this was presently confirmed by sundry unmistakeable signs, such as the constant galloping of messengers between the English consulate and the Pacha's residence, by the erection of a second flagstaff over the former, and the passage of rich furniture through the city to the Armenian Patriarch's palace, which, it appeared, the Pacha had decided upon fitting up for his Royal Highness's reception, that he might have his choice between that and the English consulate.

In the afternoon of the 17th, Mr. Finn, the English Consul, attended by his cawasses, left Jerusalem to escort the royal party from Jaffa. The people of Jerusalem were, however, destined to experience a temporary disappointment, for news arrived on Monday that the Prince had not landed so soon as had been expected, and could not reach Jerusalem until Wednesday. On Tuesday it was reported that the Prince would stay at the English consulate, his suite at the now well known Mrs. Rosenthal's hotel-intelligence which comforted the latter not a little, as her excellent house has been almost unvisited during the past year, a circumstance which cannot be attributed to accident. But to return to the royal visit.

On Wednesday morning all was astir-people going out, troops under arms, cannon ready, field-pieces outside the city, the Pacha's pavilion pitched and richly furnished at some distance from the city for the Pacha's reception. At about three o'clock in the afternoon the consular staff of dragomans and cawasses started to meet the procession. From the battlements of the city the sight was picturesque in the extreme: soldiers grouped everywhere, with piled arms, waiting the signal to line the roads; people of every nation and language out waiting in thousands,-most of them had been out all day. The weather was intensely hot, and an East wind blowing. It grew dark, however, and the Prince had not arrived, but at length the roar of the cannon salute announced that the royal visitor was at the Pacha's pavilion, and immediately huge lanterns were dispatched from the English consulate to meet the procession at the city gate. The soldiers lined the street up to the Consul's door, and then the great guns from the fortifications announced that for the first time in the history of the world an English Prince was within the walls of Jerusalem; and amid the din of the multitude and the pealing of the guns, his Royal Highness, accompanied by the Pacha, the English Consul, Captain Tarleton, R.N., Major Cowell, R.E., Dr. Carmichael, &c., rode up to the consular residence, the Turkish infantry presenting arms as the Prince dismounted. The Pacha presently departed, but the next day dined privately with the Prince at the consulate. His Royal

Highness, it appears, declined any public reception of deputations or Consuls, or others.

On Thursday the royal party paid a visit to the Mosque of Omar, at the request of the Pacha, and although it was the last day of the pilgrimage to Neby Moosa, when all the fanatics of the country are assembled, and the mosque enclosure was full of men, women, and children, not an uncivil word was spoken to any one.

On Friday, 23rd, a lovely morning, the whole party set out for Hebron. First the cawasses, then the Prince, the English Consul and his lady, Major Cowell, &c., escorted by a body of infantry, mounted as body-guard, and last of all a party of irregular horse for honour. It was a very pretty sight indeed. In front were two of the cavalry drummers, fellows in the most original costume with conical felt caps, beating the little kettle drums at their saddle-bows with leathern straps, making the valleys ring again.

At Nar Elias the Greeks of the convent had laid down carpets and placed an arm chair for the Prince, under the olive trees where there is a view on the right hand of Bethlehem, and on the left of Jerusa lem. The convent bell was rung famously, and a crowd of Greek and Russian pilgrims were gathered to see the Prince.

But at Bethlehem his reception presented a most wonderful and interesting sight. The whole population, in their picturesque dresses, turned out to see and welcome his Royal Highness, and his numerous cavalcade rode through a crowd of eager people, men in their red and white turbans, with holiday robes of scarlet cloth, women and girls in dark blue and red, with gold coins on their heads, and bracelets of gold and silver on their arms, on every terrace and roof, and many a prayer of "God preserve him to his mother," or "God lengthen his days," was heard in an audible voice by the bystanders in their vernacular Arabic. One man even ran forward and spread his garments in the way, but the Prince, with delightful tact, turned his horse aside, so as to avoid treading on them. As the party proceeded the mass of people followed, so that when it reached the Church of the Nativity, the fine open space in front of it was thronged. Here the party were met by the Latin, Greek, and Armenian monks, bearing huge lighted wax tapers. All the places of interest, including the Grotto of the Nativity and the dwelling place of Jerome, were duly visited.

After resting for a short time, and accepting the hospitality of the Latin Superior, the party proceeded to Urtas, supposed to be the site of Solomon's gardens, and now the industrial farm belonging to the Jerusalem Agricultural Association and to Mr. Meshullam, who resides on the spot. On the hill side the Sheik and people of Urtas met the party, and, with their long guns, fired a feu de joie, to the great amusement of the royal party.

Mr. Meshullam had the Union Jack flying over his house, and had the honour of entertaining the party at breakfast. The visitors were so much pleased with the place and their reception that they expressed their intention of returning thither on their way back next day.

Hence they went towards Solomon's Pools, the goldfinches pouring

forth their song from every branch and thicket. These pools are splendid pieces of water, the largest, as was observed by one of the party, capable of accommodating two first-rates. At Hebron the troops were drawn out, and, after the Colonel had paid his respects, the party moved on-not to the town, but westwards to the great oak, called Abraham's oak, where tents were pitched in readiness. Presently a pack of jackals began to cry among the vineyards, and their voices had hardly ceased when the plaintive cry of the plover was heard, and then came the barking of a fox, the hooting of an owl with a voice like a bell, and all other sounds special to an encampment.

Next morning the party returned to Jerusalem by a different road, first visiting the unfinished building called Abraham's house, supposed to have been begun by David before removing to Zion. The doorway is 176 feet wide, and all of Jewish style of building. Shortly before reaching Urtas a hare was started, and a brisk but unsuccessful chase ensued. At Urtas dinner had been prepared by Mr. Meshullam, and the butter, honey, and Bethlehem wine were much approved. After dinner the line of march was resumed, and Jerusalem re-entered after dark.

Next day the whole party attended divine service at the English church on Mount Zion, where the Bishop preached, and the church was filled with pilgrims and strangers then sojourning in Jerusalemeven some of the Turkish guard ventured in. In crossing the square of the castle opposite the church gateway the guard turned out to salute, and on leaving the church the Prince was received by a dense crowd, chiefly Armenian pilgrims, desirous to see the Queen of England's son, and on his way back honoured the Bishop by returning his call.

On Monday, the 28th, his Royal Highness left Jerusalem for the Dead Sea. As soon as the sun was risen crowds assembled to see him depart, and the terraces and domes of the houses were covered with spectators. The troops lined 'the street, and when his Royal Highness left the consulate the castle guns fired a salute of twenty-one guns, and another when he passed out of the St. Stephen's Gate. At the Garden of Gethsemane the heads of the Armenian and Greek churches were waiting to take leave of the Prince, who proceeded then to the Dead Sea, and thence by Bethel to Damascus.

It will be gratifying to the people of England to know that his Royal Highness was in excellent health and spirits, and charmed all the world by his unaffected courtesy as well as his dignity and manly English bearing. Many a one responded a hearty Amen to the prayers which the people of Bethlehem uttered so loudly for his long life and happiness.

The following is an account given to his friends by a young naval officer after having gone over much of the same ground as that alluded to in the foregoing, -creditable to the author as well as to the school which he had not left long for a naval life.