and about a dozen of his followers, only were at first allowed to enter within the walls. After passing along a wide street completely lined with soldiers, they were conducted to the sheikh's residence, where, after some delay, Bhoo Khaloom alone was permitted to enter. After a farther delay, our travellers were admitted. They found the sheikh in a dark room, sitting on a carpet, plainly dressed in a blue tobe, and a shawl turban. Two negroes were on each side of him, armed with pistols, and on his carpet lay two more of those weapons. His personal appearance was prepossessing. His age was apparently not more than forty-five or forty-six, with an expressive countenance, and a benevolent smile. After receiving the bashaw's letter, he inquired of the travellers what was their object in coming. Major Denham told him that he had come merely to see the country, and to give an account of its inhabitants, as his sultan was desirous to know every part of the globe. After telling them that they were welcome, and that when they were recovered from the fatigue of their journey, he would be glad to see them, he appointed one of his people to accompany them to the huts which had been prepared for them. The huts were little round mud buildings placed within a wall, at no great distance from the sheikh's residence, and into their grateful shade our travellers crept, to recover from the fatigue of their presentation to the sheikh of Bornou. 66 After a short stay in Kouka, Major Denham received the sheikh's permission to visit the sultan, the descendant of the ancient sovereigns of the country, who holds his court in great state at Birnie, a large town about sixteen miles distant from Kouka, though the real power is in the hands of the sheikh. He received our travellers soon after daylight, in an open space in front of the royal residence. Everything was conducted with the greatest form and ceremony; the courtiers first riding past on horseback, and having dismounted, prostrating themselves before him, and then seating themselves at the distance of about a hundred yards, with their backs towards his majesty, which in Bornou is considered the most respectful position. Nothing could be more absurd and grotesque than the figures of the courtiers. Large bellies and large heads are indispensable for those who serve the court of Bornou; and those who do not naturally possess those advantages of person must make up the deficiency by stuffing their garments till they assume the proper size. This is not a very difficult matter, as most of them have from eight to ten or twelve shirts of different colours, which they wear one over the other. The head is also enveloped in folds of muslin or linen of various colours, but mostly white, so as to increase its size as much as possible. The heads of those courtiers whose turbans seemed to be worn with the most studied effect appeared completely on one side. To add still more to their ridiculous appearance, they are hung all over with charms, enclosed in little red leather parcels. Their horses are also ornamented with these badges of superstition. "When the courtiers, to the number of about three hundred, were all duly seated, the strangers were allowed to approach, and desired to sit down, when the ugliest black that can be imagined, the chief eunuch, the only person who was permitted to approach close to the sultan, asked for the presents which they had brought. These were produced, tied in a large shawl; and the whole was carried unopened to the place where the sultan sat, in great majesty, enclosed in a sort of cage of cane or wood, on a seat which seemed to be covered with silk, and with a turban more monstrous than those of any of his subjects! "When this ceremony was over, Major Denham visited various other Bornouese towns, where his dress, and the whiteness of his skin, excited both the pity and the astonishment of the natives. He afterwards returned to Kouka, |