as it is wide-spreading, but in these passed away, and Visby, the ghost of few pages I have merely recorded some its former self, lies half concealed befirst impressions received in passing. hind its ancient walls, a mediæval, wellnigh forgotten relic.

PHIL ROBINSON.

From Temple Bar.

THE EYE OF THE BALTIC.

Yet the Visby of to-day merits more attention than it obtains from visitors to Sweden and the Baltic. Its once fabulous wealth has departed from it. The housewives no longer, as in the old tradition, use golden spindles, nor do the hogs eat from silver troughs; while of the eighteen churches of which the town once boasted, seventeen lie in irretrievable ruin, wrecked, it would seem, rather by the ruthlessness of man than by the ravages of time. Still Visby, even in ruins-we may say, indeed, because of its ruins and the associations that cling to them is full of interest. Its early prosperity was largely due to the convenient position of Gotland in the Baltic, midway between the Swedish and Russian coasts. Until the new routes by Genoa and Venice and by the Cape of Good Hope were established, most of the commerce with the East passed through Russia, and Visby as a place of call became so prominent as to gain the name Queen of the Baltic, or the Eye of the Baltic. Old chroniclers assert that even Solomon in all his glory was poorer in gold and silver and precious stones than was this small city.

THERE are places where the traveller is inclined to echo the words of Madame de Staël, "Voyager, c'est un triste plaisir." Visby in Gotland is such a place. Its silent, grass-grown streets, and the blackened ruins of its once stately churches, suggest a mournful retrospect. We recall the days when, conspicuous among the towns of the Hanseatic League, the busy city despatched its ships to every European port, and welcomed traders from all parts of the commercial world. Visby must have afforded a most picturesque scene during the thirteenth century-the zenith of its prosperity. A strange medley of different nationalities then congregated in the narrow streets and found shelter in the quaint, staircase-gabled houses, enriched with stained glass windows, carved doors, and frescoed walls glories long since departed. Truly a strange medley, which included Russians, Germans, Dutch, and English, men from the far East and Scandinavian neighbors, cloistered monks and Visby was one of the first to be enburly friars, nuns and sisters of differ- rolled among the Hanse towns, and ent religious orders, with here and took a leading part in the famous there a pilgrim in travel-stained cape, League. Its maritime code has served trimmed with shells from the shores of as a model for most of the European Palestine. And elbowing their way navigation laws. From the first the through this throng were also roystering knights, who had, like Chaucer's hero, "foughten for oure feith," attended by smart pages bearing bows and swords. The citizens themselves we may picture clad in tight doublets and breeches, short capes of Dutch cloth, and caps trimmed with fur, with long knives hanging from their leathern belts. When to the tongues of many nations was added the clang of the bells of eighteen churches tolling out for miss and prayer, the city must have been a very Babel. The motley crowd, with its busy din, has long since

66

eye" of the Baltic was mainly directed to business. Its prosperity received royal recognition when Henry III. allowed the merchants of Gotland the privilege of free trade as regarded purchase and traffic in England. The enterprise of the traders enabled them to secure a double profit. They betook themselves, with other representatives of the League, to London, and established, close to Thames Street, a house called the Steelyard, which flourished for upwards of three centuries. Meanwhile the population increased rapidly in Visby, and the variety of religions

called for the erection of numerous disastrously for the Gotlanders. An churches and religious buildings. Char- ancient stone cross, still in perfect itable guilds and hospitals were also preservation, commemorates the event, established. The monks after their with the following Latin inscription : wont helped to beautify the town by" Anno domini MCCCLXI feria tertia planting walnut, chestnut, lime, and post Jacobi aute portas Wisby in manmulberry trees, some of which still ibus danorum ceciderunt gutenses, hic thrive. But the chief charm of Visby sepulti, orate pro eis." lies in its grey walls, which as a speci- The victorious Danes quickly overmen of ancient fortification are almost ran the island; houses and churches unique. Following the inequalities of were pillaged, and huge beer vats, filled the ground from the sea at the south with gold and silver, were carried off. end, they run round the site of the But the rapacity of Waldemar was uncity until they again reach the shore. appeased until he had stripped the These walls were built at the cost of cathedral of its golden statues and the peasantry of Gotland in 1288; each other treasures, and added the sacred Ting or district being made responsible carbuncles of Visby to his spoils. by the authorities for a tower, square, These famous stones filled the rosaces octagonal, or round. Of these towers, of the church of St. Nicholas, remarkthirty-six, as well as three massive able even among the churches of Gotgateways, were raised, so that even if land for its lofty gables and long lancet the walls were scaled, the garrison windows. In the words of the chronmight defend themselves from the shel-icler of the times, the carbuncles ter of the towers. In some are narrow "lighted the night as the sun does the slits, through which molten lead and day," so that the church served as a boiling oil could be poured on the heads lighthouse for mariners. It is even of the besiegers. said that twenty-five men guarded the Many and various have been the treasure night and day, so great was vicissitudes of Visby, and they began its value. Undeterred by sentimental early in its history. The name itself considerations, Waldemar laid his imindicates a sacrificial village, and proved pious hand upon the sacred jewels, and terribly prophetic. In 1028 the city shipped them off with the remainder of was invaded by the Viking Warrior- his spoil to Denmark. Ill luck, howSaint Olaf, who appears to have con- ever, pursued the ship, and at Carlsö, verted the inhabitants by duress rather the rocky islet off the south coast, the than by persuasion, for he gave no vessel capsized and the precious freight quarter save to those who consented to was lost. To this day the seafaring receive baptism at his hands, and to folk of that port declare that on bright, pay a ransom of gold. Several civil calm days dazzling gleams of light scinwars ensued, which were succeeded by tillate from the bottom of the oceanintermittent disputes with Sweden and the reflection of the sacred stones. Norway. Ravages by fire destroyed Visby never recovered from the dire many of the churches and wellnigh effects of Waldemar's invasion. It relaid the whole place in ashes. Ulti-mained the prey of alternate Danish mately the Danes turned envious eyes and German governors, who oppressed upon their opulent neighbor, and from and plundered the country without them, in the year 1361, came the fatal blow to Visby's prosperity. Waldemar of Denmark, whose name is still used by young Gotlanders as a bugbear in their games, laid the town waste, and sacked its treasures. Just outside the southern gateway is a pleasant grassy spot, hard by the sea, the scene of the tremendous battle which ended so There were formerly eighteen

scruple. In 1530 its desolation was completed by the excesses that accom panied the Reformation. The place sank into slow but sure decay, recovering in some degree under the mild rule of Sweden, to whom it has belonged, but with few interruptions, since the year 1645.

tioned.

churches in Visby alone. Of these, the Reformers. The Church of St. Santa Maria, the cathedral, is the only Clemens at Visby was particularly menbuilding now in use for public worship. The other churches date from the eleventh century, but Santa Maria is of a later period. There is much that is interesting in the building and its im

"Oh, that we could return," cried one of the holy fathers, "and release the goose with its twenty-four goslings, all of purest gold, from its dark hiding

mediate surroundings, but at the pres-place in the church wall!”

ent time it runs the risk of being spoilt "But do you not think," suggested by over-restoration. Of greater inter- the other, "that the cursed heretics est is the ruin of Helige Ands (Holy have already plucked our goose and let Ghost). Within the tower is an upper her brood fly abroad?" church with pointed arches springing from circular columns. It is approached by a double staircase, and through an open archway a view is obtained of the choir. The same feature may be observed in some of the conventual churches of Italy, where nuns, concealed from view, took part in the services. Helige Ands, however, was built in 1046, two centuries before the separation of monks and nuns was decreed. Possibly the lower church may have been previously the temple of another religion, that of Odin, for example, which was exclusively followed in Scandinavia in the tenth century. Another theory with a greater show of probability, is that, as there was a hospital attached to the church, the sick may have occupied the upper portion while the convalescents worshipped below.

"Not so," replied his companion; "the treasure was too well concealed for a glimmer to be revealed ;" and he proceeded to describe the hiding-place with a minuteness which left nothing to be desired. The journeyman's mouth watered as he listened attentively to every word. Why should not he himself find the treasure? Working his way to Dantzic, he passed thence to Visby. St. Clemens had been laid waste by fire, but the walls remained, and, under cover of night, he stole forth with the necessary tools and unearthed the treasure trove. Returning with all speed to Dantzic, he sold both goose and goslings, laying out the proceeds in the purchase of stockin-trade, for he now saw his way to becoming a master cobbler. He then settled in Gotland, where he married and prospered, eventually rising to the position of burgomaster- the Whittington of Visby.

The people of Gotland retain many of their primitive characteristics, and old customs are held very sacred. For example, the cross is still signed before the fire is lighted or the dough kneaded, and the butcher will pluck hairs from the forehead of the beast and throw them into the fire before he slaughters. The island affords a fertile field to the lover of traditions and legends, which are accepted by the natives with the utmost credulity. Each ruined church possesses a legend of some kind. In connection with the Romanesque build- the other St. Drotten. In these "sising of St. Clemens we read how a ter churches" the round and pointed Young journeyman shoemaker, wan- arches are employed together, St. Lars dering through Italy in search of work, being built in the shape of a Greek chanced one day at a wayside tavern to cross with four massive pillars supportoverhear two monks relating stories of ing the central roof. It is a striking hidden treasures in churches known peculiarity of the Gotland churches that to them which had been plundered by the pointed arch appears as a decoraVOL. LXXXIII. 4288

St. Lars and St. Drotten (Holy Trinity), with their dark, square towers and round arches, stand side by side. They are said to owe their existence to a quarrel between the two sour-tempered daughters of a rich merchant. So embittered became the discord of the sisters that at length they were unable to worship in the same building. On the father's death each built for herself a temple of prayer - the one St. Lars,

LIVING AGE.

"The farm

of Oja is still held by lineal descendants of Ung Hans.

tive feature earlier by half a century at | tious inhabitants declare the tower least than in other parts of Europe. It haunted by "the shriekings of despair may have been introduced from the and many a stifled groan.' East. To St. Per's or Peter's church, of which a mere fragment remains, is also attached a story of hidden treasure. A poor child playing among the ruins found a large sum of money. Filling her pinafore with as many pieces as she could carry, she bore them home in triumph; but from that moment she became hopelessly blind, and the remainder of the treasure was sought for in vain.

Perhaps the most pleasing of all the traditions is that which sets forth how Gotland in the first instance became terra firma. According to the early Saga, the "Eye of the Baltic" was an island that floated by night and sank by day. Like Delos:

Long time the sport of ev'ry blast O'er ocean it was wont to toss, Each of the dark grey wall towers Till grateful Phoebus moored it fast has also a name and tradition of its To Gyaros and high Myconos, own. The most thrilling is that conAnd bade it lie unmoved and brave nected with the Maiden's Tower on the The violence of wind and wave. north-west side of the ancient wall. In the case of Gotland, Thjelvar, son King Waldemar of Denmark plays the of Guti, acted the part of the grateful part of the hero, or, we may say, the god. Driven by famine from the kingvillain of the story. In order to test dom of Gotland, he set sail with his the truth of the fabulous wealth of son Hafdi and his daughter-in-law Visby, Waldemar disguised himself as Whitestar and a small company of a merchant, and, in the autumn of hungry followers, to seek sustenance 1360, took up his abode at the farm of elsewhere. Guided by a raven, they one Ung Hans, who dwelt at Oja, some steered their course towards the floatmiles from the city. Here the king ing isle. Thjelvar, learned in tradition, won the love of the fair but frail daugh- | boldly determined to land. Wise men ter of the farmer, obtaining with her had assured him that if fire could be assistance valuable knowledge of the defences of Visby and of the best landing-places for his fleet. In the spring, having carefully beguiled his unfortunate viciim with many false promises, he returned to Denmark to prepare for the enterprise. Soon after, as we know, he besieged, captured, and sacked the town. The only notice he bestowed on the wretched girl was to order the farmhouse in which she dwelt to be spared. It availed her little, for, overcome with shame and remorse at having betrayed her countrymen, and careless of her doom, she, like Constance de Beverley, made full confession, meeting with the same terrible fate as befell the false Marmion's betrothed. Infuriated by her treachery, the townsmen condemned her to be immured alive, choosing for her "living tomb" the tower which has since borne the name of Jungfru. Here she was slowly starved to death. No wonder that the supersti

brought to the island it would float no more. He ran the vessel into a small bay, and, landing, lighted a huge fire of wood. The prediction was fulfilled; from that night the island never sank. His companions gathered round Thjelvar, praising his skill and wisdom; but he waved them aside, and, pointing to the new moon as it rose over the sea, lifted his hands towards heaven and thanked the gods who had graciously led him to a new land. Fantastic ceremonies followed in honor of the young moon, a principal feature being the consumption of vast quantities of new milk out of buffalo horns. Whence came the milk does not appear. Thjel var with proper filial reverence named the island Gutiland, after his father. Now a curious dream about three serpents visited Whitestar the first night she slept in her new home, a dream which in these dyspeptic days might reasonably have been attributed to over indulgence in the new milk. The in

terpretation, however, given to it by a | found the king and queen at the Smörseer who was of the company, was that gads board. The ambassador from Whitestar should become the mother of Gotland was announced, and Ivar three sons at a birth, sons who should waited at the door expecting an invitacombine the wisdom of serpents with tion to join the feast. The king, howthe innocence of doves, and prove able ever, allowed him to remain where he rulers of the land. Again prediction stood. After an interval he asked his was verified, and the trio received the visitor in a mocking tone what news he names of Guti, Graffr, and Gaufgaun. had brought from Gotland. Ivar, thorWhen Thjelvar died, Hafdi succeeded, oughly incensed, replied carelessly that and after him came the three sons, who there was nothing more remarkable to divided the island between them. To relate than that a mare had produced this day there are places called by their three foals at a birth. names. They successfully cultivated the land, improved navigation and trade, and defended themselves from their enemies with point and edge. Their descendants were distinguished for a strong veneration for groves and hills, holy places, rune stones and idols. To these last the aristocracy claimed the privilege of sacrificing their sons and daughters; the humbler folk had to content themselves with an offering of sheep and goats. Probably in this matter they thought themselves aggrieved. As the Gotlanders increased in wealth and power, they were frequently attacked by their neighbors, and although for the most part successful in defending their independence, they considered it prudent to seek the protection of a powerful alliance. Partly by piracy and partly by traffic, valuable treasures had been amassed on the island, and these roused rapacious desires in the minds of the pirate chieftains who were their neighbors.

"Indeed," said the king; "only two colts can be nourished at the same time; what does the third do?"

"Just what I am doing," answered Ivar roughly; "stands and looks on."

This bold answer pleased the king, and Ivar was told to come forward and appease his appetite. His mission prospered. In consideration of a yearly payment of sixty marks from the Gotlanders, and the loan of seven ships in time of war, Eric agreed to befriend them whenever they needed help, which, judging from their recent expe riences, was likely to be tolerably often. The Gotlanders, who look upon Sweden with kindly eyes, never forget that their first alliance with the mother country was due to Ivar Straben. He has many namesakes.

So great is the veneration for sagas and legends, that most of the young Gotlanders bear the name of some hero of renown in fact or fable. In the same way the gards or farmholdings are often called after heathen deities, and the plants in like manner. Thus, the common yellow stone-crop goes by the name of Thor's skagg (beard), and is considered of good omen to the dwelling on which it grows. The stinging nettle, barley, and the small fern, ruta muraria, are also named after the god of thunder.

The islanders had several times sought assistance at the Swedish court, sending presents of white horses, oxen with gilded horns, and such-like trifles. It usually happened, however, that the presents were retained and the petition dismissed. An exception, however, is recorded in the success of one Ivar Straben, or Longshanks, who was chosen as envoy to King Eric of Swe- Numerous relics of ancient times are den. Before departing on his perilous found scattered over the island; nota-` errand, Ivar demanded the payment of bly memorial stones bearing quaint three ransoms in hard cash, so that in drawings of men and animals, or of the event of losing his life, his wife ships in full sail.

The most remark

and child would be provided for. Hav-able stands in the parish of Hallingbö. ing effected this sensible form of in- On one side of the stone are inscribed surance, he arrived at Upsala, and some curious characters, and the draw