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* We'll begin at Palermo,” he said, , kingdom of God, all but that black-a*. and tak’ my advice, never you gang veesed fellow there.' "Oh, bless you, in a French steamer. For 1 gaed in that's our chaplain,' they shouted, and ane to Messina, and sic a set o’jabber- in a little the joke was over the ship, ing monkeys as were in it! I couldna and even the great mogul (that's the mak’ them understand a word I said, captain) on his quarter-deck got it. but I got a fine Italiau steamer frae “Well, I went on to Jaffa. Now, Messina to Alexandria, and a captain doctor, don't think me very wicked if I who spoke English and treated me as if say as to what are called the sacred I was his father. When we got to places that in general they seem to me Alexandria, 'Noo, Mr. Tamson,' said to be humbug, but that tanner's house he, if you go ashore to an hotel they'll at Joppa was one of the few I thought rob you, but if you stay on board I'll the raal bit. I went on a lovely day put you ashore every day, and you can and sat on the roof, and it was maist see the place in comfort,' and so I did. solemneesin', for there was the long One day a strange-looking craft was line o’shore that St. Peter went along lying off the roadstead, and in the after- to see Cornelius, and the place I was noon when I came down to the port I sittin' on might have been the scene o' thought I would like to see her more his vision, and so I sat a long while closely. There were two wee Arab thinking.
But when I saw the sea, boys in a boat fighting, and the wee blue and warm, says I, “I'll gang and one was getting the better of the big bae a dook,' so off I set and had a one, when suddenly he was sent over splendid swim ; but when I was for into the water, but held on so tightly going ashore a perfect crowd of the that the other had to let go. When natives were gathered.
• What are ye they were in the water they fought like gloweriu? at?' said I, and giving my a couple of cats, but at last, settling hands a clap they were off into their their differences, they got into the boat holes like a pack o' rabbits. and stripped off their wet clothes to 6. How did I get up from Jaffa to dry. I was so diverted with them that Jerusalem ?' Why there was a maI determined to hire them and their chine, that is, there was a board or boat to go to the strange vessel ; so two upon wheels, and sic a road! I holding up a franc, and pointing to the thought my inside would have been big ship, they came to shore and off I shaken out o' me - but we had a grand set, with the two wee naked scuddies at dinner at Arimathea ! the oars, the bow high in the air and 66 Jerusalem was more interesting the stern deep with my weight. When than I can tell you, and I went wanwe came near the vessel I saw she was verin' every day to some bit or other. an English man-of-war, and the officers One day I went to the ruiner mosque gathered at the top of the companion on the top o' the Mount of Olives, and soon hailed me, ‘Hillo, old cock, where when I saw the half-ruined tower I are you going ?' 'I'm one of your determined to get to the top. There owners,' said I, and I am come to in- was an arch, not very safe-lookin', that spect my property, and to see whether was to be crossed first, and the lad, that you can protect me.' So they wel- came wi' me and my donkey, said I comed me on board, and the young mustn't try it. But doon I lay, and fellows showed me over the ship and just drew myself over it, and called to took me into their ward-room for lunch, him to follow. · Nae wark, nae pay!' and I did keep them merry with stories. says I, and so over he came. • I'm By and by I said, “ Noo, young men, I yoin' up that broken stair,' said I, and wish to tell you I am satisfied wi' ye. you are comin' wi’ me. Not a foot,' Ye're as fine a set of lads as ever said he. 'A' richt, my man, but nae I beheld, and, no to be profane, I wark, nae pay!’so come he did, and would say, looking about on your open, up we went; and when we yot to the healthy faces, you are not far from the top I saw what I had hopel to see
just a sma' bit o' the Dead Sea and | comin', and no' a mere sultan, I wadna there and then I did what had never climb up on the top o' a cab to see been done there since the makin' o' the even her. But tak' you my card to world.
What was that, d’ye think? Ithat officer on horseback, and tell him just sang out, as loud as I could, the I'm an auld man frae Scotland, and Scotch version of the Hundredth Psalm, that I wish to see his Majesty' So off All people that on earth do dwell
he goes, and the officer spoke to anSing to the Lord with cheerful voice,
other officer, and then up he rides and
makes the sodgers staun back, and tells and never did I sing it with a fuller me in English to follow him, and away heart than I did that day."
he led me to the platform where a'the One remark regarding his stay in Je- swells were with their ribbons and orrusalem struck me as original, and it ders; and didna they glower at me, as was spoken in perfect reverence. “It if they would say, 'Wha are you, old occurred to me,” he said, “ as I paced boy ?' And in a while the suitan cam’, the Via Dolorosa, and thought of that and everybody bowed low as he cam'. procession to the cross, and the dis- But, says I to mysel', Dod! I'll gie tance between the house of Pilate and him a raal British cheer. Hoorraw!! the scene of the crucifixion no mat- says I, • Hoorraw! Iloor-r-a-a-aw!!' ter which site you may prefer for Gol- and with that the sultan paused and gotha — that when all that our Loru looked at me, and, wi' a low bow, went had passed through is taken into ac-on. After a time I saw him coming count, the night of suffering and the back. Ól'll gie him another cheer, terrible scourging, and the distance he said I. · Iloorraw! Hoorraw! Iloorhad to walk, over a good part of which 2-a-a-aw!!' and again he bowed to me he carried the cross, I say that, lu- and passed on. But he hacina gaen far manly speaking, he must have been before he stopped and spoke to an offiphysically an unusually strong man.” cer, and the otficer comes up to me and This is a reflection which seems justi- says, “Sir, the sultau commands me to fied, and I am not aware of it having say that if you wish to see his prireceived expression before.
vate gardens you will be permitted.' But returning to the less serious part • That's very kind,' I answered, .but of his adventures he took me from can I gany in a cab?' • No, sir, you Jerusalem to Constantinople. “ One cannot go in a cab.' "Well, be pleased morning the lad came to me saying, to say to his Majesty that I am much that if I wished to see the sultan he obleeged to him for his kind offer, and was to go in public next day to say his that I'm very sorry I can't accept it."" prayers - - a thing he had not done for This ended all I learned from himself a long time, as he was in terror of as- of the strange adventures of this forsassination. So, next morning the car- cible personality. riage was round at ten and away we went. We drove up to the grand · Place,' and there the ground was held by soldiers, and in the middle of the
From Chambers' Journal.
A TRIP TO MINORCA. square was a platform on which were all kinds of officers and ambassadors in WHEN in Palma, the capital of Mafull uniform, and near me were rows of jorca, we told of our intention to cross carriages full of fashionable people. to the island of Minorca, they tried 10 • When I tell you to do so,' said the dissuade us from the trip. There is lad, óyou must get out and sit on the nothing whatever to see in the island roof of the carriage if you wish to see except the talayots," we were informed. the sultan.' Me sit on the roof o' a ** Its scevery is about as beautiful as cab!' said I. No likely! There's no that of Lincolnshire ; and its hotel a more loyal man than me in a' Scotland, accommodation, save in Mahon, the but if it was Queen Victoria that was chief town, decidedly rough.”
But a fair acquaintance with the longing to it was very seasick. It was world had taught both my friend and about as disagreeable a scene as it could me to distrust the opinion held by the be; for Spaniards are not heroic under inhabitants of one island about the na- such a trial. ture of an adjacent island. Such opin- Sunrise found us, however, at anchor jou is apt to be based upon prejudice, in the fine harbor of Mahon. The or eren upon reasonable envy. No frowning forts of Spain were to our sensible person would give full credit right; and on the other side of the to the judgment of an average French- inlet we could see the dismantled ruins man about Great Britain and her peo- of the works built up so spiritedly and ple; or suppose that our insular ideas with such art by our own engineers of France and the French are trust- nearly one hundred and fifty years ago. worthy through and through. Besides, A rosy sun was just peeping over the there were special reasons why we red houses of Mahon, and casting a should feel a curiosity about Minorca. fair welcome sheen upon the still water Had we not, in the Palma Museum of of the inlet, and making the rather the Lonja, seen a great escutcheon in bare, hilly boundaries of the harbor stone of the lion and the unicorn loll- look pretty enough in the translucent ing against a wall with cobwebs about air. it ; and had we not been told that the There was every promise of a fine monument was a relic from Minorca
day, a mercy to be grateful for in the a reminiscence of the days of the last Balearics in spring, when a good deal century when the British made them- of rain is wont to fall. Summer here selves very much at home in the little is generally as dry as a bone. The hot, island ? Majorca is a very lovely land, plain country of Majorca is then, in full of flowers, and with a nook of spite of its vineyards and olive woods, mountains where the scenery is so a profoundly disagreeable place of soalluring and grand that it would be journ. The dust and glare of the long hard to match anywhere. But Majorca white roads are very conducive to has been Spanish ever since its con- ophthalmia. They are bad enough in quest from the Moors in 1225. It has spring, but summer much intensifies never, like Minorca, bad the Union- the baduess. Each brook bed then jack flying gaily from its forts during dries up and cracks, as if it besought the spring and autumnal equinoctials. the obdurate heavens to pity its agony
And so we resisted our friends' coun- of thirst. sel, and one afternoon went aboard the The diligences of the interior are steamship City of Mahon, bound for vile instruments of torture at any time. Port Mahon. It was a breezy April Even in the coupé, where you do get day, and the white horses were running plenty of air, you are half choked by
a great pace outside Palma's bay. the cloud of dust in the midst of which Our passage was not a pleasant one. the three or four little long-tailed horses The boat had a fiendish kind of roll in jog along with a well-assumed air of the open sea. Moreover, the deck was resignation. Those who are used to populous with a crowd of little boys the land find support in the bad cigars and girls a juvenile theatrical troupe, of Spain and the thimblefuls of brandy engaged to perform twice or thrice in which it is the fashion to drink in the Minorca before returning to Spain. different villages by the way. But to They were attended by half-a-dozen an unbroken foreigner, these are addiolder folk, including the “prima tional sources of irritation, not springs alonna,” a languishing beauty, whose of consolation. pallor was soon emphatic enough to Late in the day we found ourselves show through her painted blushes in a in the diligence from Mahon to Ciuvery sad way. And save the fat man- dadela, with a blue sky over us, and a ager of the troupe, I believe in half an very endurable amount of dust in our hour every man, woman, and child be- midst, arising from our horses' feet.
In Minorca, by the way, they have a plastered walls, Spanish as
well as wicked habit of cropping their horses' British. Of the latter, some
as tails poodle-wise, which much detracts modern as you please, for the Mediterfrom the dignity of the noble animals. ranean squadron often comes to an
We had in the mean time spent anchor iu Port Mahon and gives the several hours among the ruins of the jack-tars a day ou shore. British forts at the head of the harbor, Unless the Duke of Newcastle's ghost and reflected about Admiral Byng. It revisits the earth to afford us informaseems clear that in our day we did not tion, I am afraid we are unlikely to seize upon the right positions for forti- know the truth about the tragedy of fication. Out of question, Spain has Admiral Byng. He certainly failed to shown wisdom in concentrating her relieve the siege of Port Malou, and powers upon the other side of the in- so we lost the island. But it is by no let. It is a torpedo-shaped headland, means certain that he deserved blame all but an island, elevated, and with for the failure. Be that as it may, he precipitous red rocks as a seaward died like a gentleman. boundary. From this elevation, the " What satisfaction,” he asked, " cau Spanish engineers look down upon the I receive from the liberty to crawl a remains of our Forts Marlborough, St. few years longer on the earth with the Philip, and the suburb of George Town infamous load of a pardon on my back? across the water. Their guns have a I despise life upou such terms, and very formidable air, and the acres of would rather have them take it. I am red-roofed ammunition stores, barracks, conscious of no crimes, and am particand other buildings on the heights, are ularly happy in not dying the mean, sufficiently impressive.
despicable, ignominious wretch my eneOur hopes of a closer inspection of mies would have had the world believe the Mola, as this great fortified post is me.” called, were sigually defeated. Though When the news reached him of his I bore a letter to the chief officer of the suspension, he stripped off his uniform place, he could not act as he would like and threw it into the sea.
This was al to have acted. A government pinnace Gibraltar. He was executed at Spitwas offered us, that we might sail head, on the Monarch, on the 1411 round the cape.
But as for getting March, 1757. A cushion was set for within the walls, that was impossible. him to kneel upon in the forecastle of The war minister had issued an ex- the ship – though he protested he wils press prohibition, and not to oblige a entitled to die on the quarter-deck crowned head would my friend have and at the dropping of his handkerrun counter to it.
chief five of the six marines who haul We rambled from one heap of rub- been told off for the hateful task shot bish to another, and marked where the into his body. The sixth missed his French cannon-sliot had harmed us aim. most. Flowers were blooming heartily " There lies the bravest and best othamong the ruins, and bees buzzed about cer of the navy,” exclaimed a common
The blue sea laved the lower parts sailor, when he fell dead. of the work, transparent for many a It is hard to read Byng's last words yard. The whole area is conspicuously without feeling some emotion. If lie devoted to slow decay. Above, on a was merely a State tool, to be discarded prominent rock of the fort, are a few and broken when done with, then the tombstones to British officers, but they statesmen who sacrificed him had much are quite indecipherable. The salt air to answer for. In any case, none but has eaten into the stone ; and lizards a man of sterling worth could have exscamper at headlong speed up and pressed himself as follows at such a down their hot surfaces. And below, time : “Would to Heaven I had died in the arched subterranean rooms, a discharging my duty in the day of batmyriad of names are scrawled on the tle; then would my name have been.
transmitted, with my father's, to pos- to the common traveller they repay interity with honor, which now will be vestigation less than one has a right to remembered with indignation, a re- expect, seeing how their fame has been proach to my relations, a disgrace to noised abroad. They are not nearly so the marine, and a scandal to my coun- attractive as the nuraghe, or round try."
towers, of Sardinia, with which they When we had ridden the whole may have an affinity. They are harder length of the island and viewed it from to discover, and as spectacles they are an eminence in the middle, we reluc- trivial. But there is no doubting their tantly came to the conclusion that antiquity. Even the nuraghe must yield Minorca is rather a dull and not at all them the precedence for their rougha beautiful country. Save its harbor of ness of architecture and crudity of deMahon, it has little to recommend it to sign. the world at large. The winds are so A talayot is merely an irregular round strong over it, and the surface is so flat, or polygonal heap of rocks, with or that nowhere are there trees of any without a central chamber, the rock size. For the most part in the interior, masses at the base being of course the where barley is not grown, a low scrub largest. There is little attempt at macovers the land ; though in places there sonry in them. The limestone lumps are the beginnings of little artificial have been dug out of the adjacent copses of pines which may in time get soil, and piled one upon the other until the better of their enemy, the storms. the edifice is of the desired height
A capital road runs through the isl- and magnitude. They are of various and from north to south. General <imensions, the average being about Wade started it; but since our day fifteen yards in diameter and about six Spain has much improved on it, and in elevation. Where internal chambers now it would gladden even the critical exist, they are generally approached by soul of a bicyclist. The Minorquins a hole that is little better than a burrow, meander up and down it on a very re- slightly below the surface of the soil. spectable species of ass, and in a mood Here, too, the workmanship is much that makes them ready to stop and more primitive than that of the nugossip with any one who addresses raghe, which are not only built of them with a commonplace civility. stones very fairly dressed, but which There are several bright little villages further have in some instances spiral in the interior. Alayor is the chief, inner staircases as well as a lofty domed with a big church and a sheaf of wind- chamber of considerable strength. mills conspicuous over its white-faced Who shall say, with assurance, houses. Also, there is Mercadel ; and whether the builders of the talayots close behind Mercadel is the famous and the builders of the nuraghe were peak called Monte Toro - – or the Bull contemporaries ? It is not improbable, Mountain — upon which, several cen- even though the latter seem to belong turies ago, the Virgin is said to have to a more cultivated age. Both may be appeared one day, in consequence of the handiwork of men of Phænician which the place was made the site of a origin, or of the primitive population church and monastery.
whom the Carthaginians displaced. In From Mercadel, which is as nearly as the neighborhood of certain of the possible in the middle of the island, a talayots one sees clear traces of an good road trends west to the clean little arrangement of monoliths in the form village of San Cristobal. Here we pic- of colonnades, porticos, and chambers nicked agreeably with a native to whom open to the air. This is notably so we had been recommended, and paid with what is termed the Hostal group respectful visits to sundry talayots of by Ciudadela, the old capital of the the vicinity.
island, at the north-west corner of it. Antiquaries and archæologists would Some of these monoliths are recumbent, delight in the talayots of Minorca. But having evidently been overturned by