166 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. Sheikh of the Mezzeni; and when we knew this to be the case, I felt there might be something in the report which had reached us; and that care and vigilance would be needful. I dwell the more minutely on these matters; for the narrative on which I am now entering, is one of painful and distressing, though grateful, recollection. When the caravan had been in motion, this afternoon, for rather more than an hour and a half, in an extremely desolate region, where one could hardly have expected to meet a human being except travellers like ourselves, we observed a little stir and agitation among our people, accompanied by low and repressed observations to each other. Every man unslung his matchlock gun, and Suleiman deliberately primed his, from a little powder-flask slung at his belt. I caught his eye at the moment. There was a silent air of determination expressed in it, which induced something like a persuasion in my mind, that we might, perhaps, meet with annoyance from the Mezzeni, into whose territory we had considerably advanced. It was not long before three of our party went forward on foot, at a rapid pace, and quickly turned into a defile, when we lost sight of them for a time. There was very evident anxiety betrayed by those who remained behind. We all made a pause-loaded our pistols and girded on our sabres, that we might appear fully prepared for what was to happen. At this moment, Suleiman earnestly begged us to remain behind with the camels, while he and the rest would go forward to meet a small party of the Mezzeni, who were then just in sight, and advancing upon us. We said-No: we had no fears; and that if defence were necessary we would help to defend ourselves. We moved on. Contrary to our expectations, Suleiman fell back almost to the rear of the caravan; and we fancied he was di-posed to "shew a white feather." I confess I began to hmat my confidence in him, when I saw this movement. We ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. 167 had not proceeded far, before two of the Mezzeni advanced, in company with our three Arabs, who had left us a little while before. They salaamed us peaceably enough; and after a short conference, in which no bitterness was betrayed, the Mezzeni retired quietly up one of the mountain sides, as if all had been adjusted; but Hassenein, who had obtained full information, told us that a larger party of the enemy were to give us a meeting at a fountain, about two hours distant, where we were to pitch for the night; and that there the question at issue was to be adjusted, if possible. In the conference which had already taken place, the Mezzeni claimed their right to conduct us to Akabah, and to supply the requisite camels, at a price to be then and there agreed on. They also insisted on our dismissing Suleiman, and the rest of our escort; promising, that if we would put ourselves at once under their care, they would fight out the question with Suleiman. On our part, Hassenein said, we had made, at Cairo, our bargain with Suleiman for safe escort, by his tribe, to Akabah, and that we intended to hold by that bargain; but that they and Suleiman might come to what understanding they pleased, so that we were conducted safely. There was manifest uneasiness about Suleiman; and he seemed desirous of pressing onwards, instead of halting at the place agreed on. This looked like evasion, and was disagreeable to us. We insisted on halting, as proposed; and from various parts of the Desert, we saw first one, then another of the Mezzeni, coming slowly down towards the spot, till a considerable group of them were seated at a distance of five or six hundred yards from our place of encampment, where they kindled their fires; but neither conference nor interruption occurred. We, however, thought it good to be on the watch against any attack, and lay down partly undressed. No disturbance broke in upon the quietude of the night. We rose next morning at half-past four, and were engaged in the usual preparations for resuming our march, while at 168 ADVENTURE WITH THE MEZZENI. a distance sat the enemy in a circle, round their morning fire, apparently holding a council of war; and near at hand was a supply of their camels, which had been brought down during the night. Suleiman seemed personally disposed to stand aloof. Several of our Arabs went to the Mezzeni, and returned without any satisfactory result. At length Suleiman, accompanied by Hassenein, went forward, when a loud and stormy conversation took place-no uncommon thing, as an appendage to an Arab negociation. A grave ground of offence, however, had been given by one of the Mezzeni seizing the sabre and gun of one of our party-a heavy loss for a Bedawee Arab. After an hour spent in the noisiest declamation, Hassenein returned, stating that the question had at length been adjusted by a compromise; and that Suleiman had agreed to take and pay for five of the enemy's camels, and to dismiss as many of those which had brought us from Cairo. We of course protested against having any additional camels forced upon us, either by Suleiman or the Mezzeni; and gave notice to the former that we should not, on settling accounts at Akabah, allow of any alteration in the terms of our contract made with him at Cairo. At half-past six we were all loaded; but I was far from being favourably impressed by the phisiognomy and bearing of the five Mezzeni to whom the new camels belonged, and who were to become part of our escort. I was sorry, moreover, to lose any of our party who had accompanied us so far. But it was not to be avoided. In about three hours we reached the entrance of Wadey el Ayún (the valley of the fountain), after having passed through a less dreary route than we had traversed the day before-enlivened with some few traces of vegetation, tamarisk trees, nackels, and the species of acacia from which the gum-arabic is procured. In the midst of these was a continual sound, as if proceeding from thousands of chirping grasshoppers. Multitudes of small lizards, called by the Arabs Serebani, were to be seen here, as well as in many other parts of the Desert, shooting across the way beneath the feet of the camels. Near the mouth of Wadey el Ayún, and standing on a slight rocky elevation, is a single palm tree, of no very considerable size, yet visible at a great distance. Around it are sedges, rushes and such like succulent plants, giving an indication that water is not far away. We pressed onwards with increased speed; and the servants were in advance, in order to secure a supply of fresh water for our use, before it should be soiled by watering the camels. The arrival at a fountain is always a notable event in Desert life. I have often recalled the delight with which I reached that fountain, and drank of its refreshing stream. As soon as we had provided for ourselves, we led the camels down. And there, too, were the Arabs lying flat at the brink of the water, drinking among the camels, like camels. Wadey el Ayún is a long unbroken pass, of many miles extent, along which, frequent small streams wind their quiet way, garnished in the most lovely manner by tamarisk bushes and palm clumps, on all sides. Here indeed the wilderness seemed to put off its savage grin and to smile in verdant gentleness; though, on either side of this narrow pass, the rocks are bold, lofty, and most picturesque. The pass itself is evidently the deep bed of a vast mountain torrent, winding in the most fantastic manner, and presenting a new and charming picture at every turn. The slightest sound awakened a thousand echoes; and there was an air of wildness about the whole party, occasioned by the loud and harsh voices of our joyous Bedaween calling forth replies, in every variety of tone, from the surrounding rocks and caverns far and near. One of our young men had a narrow escape from serious danger, in this remarkable, and in some parts difficult, pass. We were pursuing our course over a shelving rock. He was riding next in advance of me. His camel slipped and fell on its side, and in an instant dashed him on the rock. This was the only false step I ever noticed in a camel during the whole journey. I was greatly alarmed, and called loudly to him; but before I could conveniently halt, so as to offer assistance, he sprang upon his legs-shouting out, "Tayeeb, 160 PREPARATIONS FOR DEPARTURE. On the twenty-fifth of May, the day fixed at Cairo, for our departure from Mount Sinai, Sheikh Suleiman was at his post, and ready to resume the command of our caravan, and to make the needful adjustments. But departure with a caravan of Bedaween Arabs is not the work of a few minutes. It is like fitting out a ship for sea; especially when changes of camels and escort have to be made, which is generally the case, when travellers who have stayed at Mount Sinai go on to Akabah. We had personally nothing to do with these changes, but to endure the vexation of delay. The three convent tribes—or of the Tor, are all equally interested in transporting travellers and merchandize; and though they are on the most friendly footing with each other, yet they are all jealous of their rights; and a few piastres lost for the want of gaining them, is a matter of sore disquiet. The consequence of the changes necessary to be made, previous to our departure, was the loss of some "old familiar faces ;" and I was obliged to give up my nice easy-paced camel, which I had ridden from Cairo, for a heavier and far less agreeable beast. Two hours and more were spent in the usual squabblings, and in the loading, unloading, and reloading of camels. The repose of the convent was invaded, till it seemed like another Babel, though all this was, of course, transacted without the walls. At eleven o'clock, all was ready for our departure. We received kindly parting visits-with a present of bread and a conserve made of dates and almonds, from the superior and several others of the fraternity-drank a farewell cup of coffee-left behind us a suitable present in money-received and returned the usual symbols of courtesy, when again, the rope and windlass were in requisition, while, one by one, we were safely landed on terra firma; and, bidding farewell to that quiet retreat, whose green repose I shall never forget, we were soon on the backs of our camels, whose heads were turned towards Wadey Sheikh, north-eastward of the convent of Santa Katarina. |