THE

MONASTERY OF MONTE VERGINE.

EVENING was closing in when we reached the superb mountain pass of Monte Forte, situated on the road from Naples to the southern provinces of that kingdom. The country still bears marks of fire and sword, and the ruin that war inevitably brings with it.

Here the Carbonari made a successful stand in 1820, and from hence the Calabrians, headed by the Priest Minichini, marched into Naples. Monte Forte is a straggling village or town, which lines both sides of the road for a considerable way, and half its houses are burnt down, or in ruins.

We arrived at the town of Avellino that

night, and left it again the next morning as soon as the sun rose, to go to the monastery of Monte Vergine, situated amongst mountains a few miles off. It was the beginning of October: on a morning all freshness and splendour the peasants were gathering in the vintage and the chestnuts, and both country and climate looked smiling and gay. At about three miles from Avellino we left the carriage, and preferring a walk through steep rocks to the uneasy pace of a mule, I began clambering an ascent which commences through a wood of chestnut trees; the walk reminded me of the approach to some of the monasteries in the North of Europe. It was a stillness and a solitude that affected the imagination powerfully, though it had none of the gloomy horror of the scenery north of the Alps, owing to the difference of the climate there and in the sunny south. From these chestnut woods you emerge into a barren rocky path-way, leading up a very high mountain, and winding up one of

the highest of the chain of southern Appennines; from hence you have the richest and most magnificent view of a plain covered with vineyards, and dotted here and there with small towns, and churches, and convents. The clearness of the atmosphere, carrying the eye to an immense distance, and the surrounding hills, having many a ruined old castle overhanging the chestnut woods that clothe their bases;—what a country is this Italy? rich in every charm nature and art can give, set off by "hues that have words, and speak to you of heaven.'

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So on we went,

And now along the mountain's winding path
Upwards we journey'd slow, and now we paused,
And gazed where o'er the plain the ruined tower
Of ancient chiefs arose, in distance seen

Dark and distinct :

-Embower'd the hamlet lay

Upon the forest edge, where stately woods,

With all their infinite varieties,

Now formed a mass of shade, the distant plain
Rose on the horizon, rich with pleasant groves
And vineyards in the brightest hue of autumn.

We

A few

Nearly at the top of this very high mountain lies the white monastery of Monte Vergine; not at first sight a sumptuous looking pile, but half hid in the grey rock, out of which the white building seems to grow. made another circuitous turn to reach it along side of an abrupt precipice, and passing a ruined chapel, found ourselves at the convent. large trees grew near, sheltered by the overhanging rocks. The gates were closed, but upon the knocking of the guides were immediately thrown open into a court, on two sides of which are cloisters; and the first view was very imposing. Opposite to the entrance are high steps leading to a church; and it so happened that some of the monks stood in their white flowing robes upon those steps, their figures adding to the picturesque effect of a most irregular style of architecture. The cloisters are of discoloured stone, and in one of them, an ill-looking, ferocious sort of man, kept a stall for Rosolio and blessed

pictures of the SSma. Madonna which he was inviting us to buy. There are two or three towers in view, and the whole of the building is white, except the stone cloisters, which are very ancient. All the other parts of the monastery having been lately restored and put into repair, the roofs of the building are dark, and contrast well with the grey rocky mountain which rises immediately over them.

An abrupt ascent of steps leads up to the ancient church, which is rich and beautifully ornamented:

The floor with many a monumental stone
Was spread; and brass ensculptured effigy
Of holy abbots honour'd in their day,

Now to the grave gone down.

We were shown the tombs of the saints, and the celebrated chapel of the black Madonna. The candles were lighted before the picture, the curtain was drawn; and the Madonna appears decorated with a crown of jewels, placed upon the picture, and numerous necklaces of precious stones; and ex-votos of silver and gold, and