the winter, going over to England in the spring sufficiently early to hear Tyrrel's lectures, and there employing the five months previous to my going home to Boston. This is the best and most economical manner I can suggest for the disposal of my time, and I trust you will think as I do in regard to it.

As Dr. Warren's father offered no objection to the above plan, but rather approved of it, his son made his arrangements accordingly. Having secured the signatures of some dozens of diplomats, great and small, to his passport, he left Paris on the 4th of August, 1833, for Geneva with four of his friends,-one of them Dr. Robert Hooper, of whom he saw much in Paris; and another the son of Mr. William Lawrence from his own city. Two occupied the coupé of the diligence, and three the interior. Even in this age of rapid and luxurious motion travel is not wholly void of discomforts, and fifty years since the vexations were many and wearisome. With Dr. Warren and his party these began at the outstart. He writes:

"Our journey from Paris to Geneva was one of the most tedious that I ever experienced. We were obliged to ride night and day for three days and four nights, stopping only at irregular hours to eat and drink, dining sometimes at two, at others eleven at night. It is almost impossible to get any quiet sleep in a diligence, the motion being unpleasant, and the roads for most of the way being paved on account of the softness of the soil."

From Geneva Dr. Warren and his party went to Chamonix, thence to the Monastery of St. Bernard, to Berne, Interlaken, and many of the most attractive portions of Switzerland, until they had become well acquainted with the grandeur and beauty of its scenery. On the first day of September they crossed the Alps by the Splügen Pass and proceeded to Milan, taking the Lake of Como on their way.

"After remaining a week in Milan waiting for our trunks, which had been despatched three weeks before from Berne, and

CONTINENTAL TRAVELS.

163

having had a continual rain for five or six days, we finally took a vetturino for Venice, who was to be eight days on the road.”

Having slowly made his way to Venice through Verona, Padua, and other places of interest, Dr. Warren spent a week there and then returned to Milan, from which he went by diligence to Parma, Bologne, and finally to Florence. After a stay of a week he continued his route to Siena, and thence to Rome, which he entered on the 5th of October, and took rooms at No. 66 Via di Ripetta. A fortnight later saw him on his road to Naples, from which after a short season he took a steamer for Marseilles. On the 31st of October he quitted this city for Paris by way of Lyons, and early in November found himself again hard at work in the schools and hospitals.

Of the letters written by Dr. Warren during this tour but one, unfortunately, has been preserved. It announces his arrival in Rome, and will serve to show, at least, that he never omitted any chance for professional improvement.

ROME, Oct. 6, 1833.

MY DEAR FATHER,- After a very pleasant week spent at Florence, we left there on the last day of September, and arrived in Rome at the end of a five days' journey. During the short stay which I made in Florence I had time to see everything of consequence. I passed an hour or two each day in the galleries, though a month or two might be profitably occupied in studying the works of celebrated ancient artists here preserved. Among other interesting objects, there is the splendid collection of waxwork so often mentioned, which far surpassed my expectations. It consists of a great number of preparations of different parts of the human body, arranged in numerous galleries. It commences with the bones and muscles, a separate preparation being devoted to each muscle, after which come the arteries, veins, nerves, lymphatics, etc. The internal organs were very fine, particularly the heart, showing the valves. There were also a large number of illustrations in comparative anatomy, perfectly executed.

The famous representation of the plague proved to be, not a portrayal of the various stages of the disease, as is generally supposed, but of its effects. It is contained in four mahogany boxes about four feet square. The first shows the city just after the pest, the bodies lying piled one upon another in confused heaps, men, women, and children, some just dead, others slightly tinged with green. In the second box the figures are on a smaller scale, and as they appeared some five or six months after death, when time had begun to tell upon them. Here one sees the effect of heat and exposure on the dead. One turned green is merely swollen, but not yet decayed. From others the heads or extremities have rotted off, while the gorged worms in alarming numbers, preying on the interior, are distinctly observed, and here and there a rat has made his way into a halfputrid body and is dragging out the entrails. The third box contains only a few remains, the skeletons stretched out and covered with mould, most exquisitely imitated. The whole collection surpasses anything of the kind that I have ever seen.

Before leaving the museum I inquired for the workman attached to it, and with some difficulty was admitted to his studio. He proved to be the same man that did the figures for you some years since. He showed me several preparations of the eye now on hand. He and his father have been employed here for forty years. He gave me his address, and I inquired the means to be taken in case we should need any more preparations.

From the delay of my trunk at Milan I have not yet met any of the medical men here, all my letters being thus rendered useless. At Florence I visited the great hospital, which contains six hundred beds. There is nothing remarkable about it, and nothing new among their instruments, which they allowed me to see. A young man at the hospital offered to introduce me to Andreini if I would come the next morning, but I was prevented by leaving the city. In Rome I shall be able to do more by means of the letters I have to one or two gentlemen here.

I had hoped to see Mr. Isaac Grant in Florence, but he had gone to visit his brother in Leghorn, where I may perhaps see him, as we touch there in the steamboat from Naples to Marseilles. Mr. Sears and his boys I met in Florence. He seems to be in better health than when he left Paris. He met Mr.

LETTER FROM ROME.

165

Phillips and Tuckerman somewhere on the Rhine on their way to Italy.

I had the pleasure of receiving a number of letters just before I left Florence, announcing Sullivan's return home and yours from the White Mountains in good health. When I reach Paris I will have a drawing of the cab made with its dimensions, etc., so that if you decide to order one from England, it can be done under my own directions before my departure for home.

I intend to pass ten or twelve days here and then leave for Naples, where we take the steamer for Marseilles on the 28th. I shall be in Paris on the 5th of November in season for the lectures, which will begin on the 7th or 8th. My Italian journey, though rapid, has thus far been thorough; nothing which was to be seen and was worth seeing having been allowed to escape. I hope to enjoy it, however, much more in retrospect than at present, as the quickness of movement and the many discomforts of travelling necessarily make it somewhat laborious, richly repaid, though, by the enjoyment of those fine works of art when they are reached. I shall write again to Mamma in a few days. My best love to her and to Sullivan, who I hope finds himself comfortably settled.

With best wishes for your continued health, I remain,

Your affectionate son,

J. M. WARREN.

DR. WARREN began his second year abroad with health strengthened by travel, with a mind enlarged by study and improved by experience, and with a devotion to his profession which daily increased as the magnitude of its demands and the vastness of its resources expanded before him. From a few of his letters here given one can perceive the nature of his life in Paris during the winter of 1833-34, while the pursuits to which he chiefly directed his attention will be easily understood without much

comment.

PARIS, NOV. 22, 1833.

MY DEAR FATHER, -I at length find myself settled down here and fully engaged in the attendance of hospitals and lectures and the studies connected with the different courses that I have undertaken. On my first arrival so many things which require to be done during the time left for my stay here crowded upon me that I was quite overwhelmed, and it was only by resolutely selecting the most important and giving myself up to them that I at last got under way. The advantages one enjoys in Paris are so great and so numerous, that however much one may wish to improve them, his intentions may be largely defeated by trying to accomplish too many things at once. I have thus come to the conclusion that I must relinquish some most important branches for lack of time.

On my arrival here I began at La Pitié with Louis, whose method of examination I especially like. I shall devote myself