sense.

He understood our words entirely from the motion of the lips; and he regulates his voice, he says, from the vibrations of the chest. The performance was wonderful; how great the utility I cannot say.

You desire me to remember you to Dr. Roots. I have not yet had the pleasure of seeing him. He lives at some distance from London, and my time has been so entirely occupied that I have been unable to go to him. I thought, also, that it would be of more advantage to me to form his acquaintance when I was settled here for the winter, than to pay him such a flying visit as I should now be obliged to. I leave London for Brighton on Saturday, and go to France by way of Dieppe. Dr. Hodgkin has offered me letters to Foville, of Rouen, but I shall be unable to make much of him, as I cannot speak French; and until I do, I shall keep clear of all French physicians to whom I have introductions.

HAVING remained at Dieppe only long enough to secure places for himself and Dr. Greene on the diligence to Rouen, Dr. Warren reached this town on the following day. Thence, travelling post, he arrived in Paris on the evening of the 22d of September, and stopped at the Hôtel de Hollande in the Rue de la Paix. On the 25th of the same month he removed to the Hôtel de l'Odéon, No. 6 Place de l'Odéon, where he continued to reside till the ensuing August. This was situated in the heart of the Quartier Latin, the focus of medical and other learned pursuits; and here he quickly began his studies with habitual zeal and industry. In his journal he

wrote:

"September 25.-Took rooms at the Hôtel de l'Odéon, Place de l'Odéon, at forty-five francs per month. Made arrangements at the same time to take my meals at the pension of Madame Morel, No. 4 Place de l'École de Médecine, at one hundred francs a month. We breakfast at half-past ten and dine at half-past five. . . .

"October 6.- We have an odd variety of characters at our table. Among them is a certain Monsieur Loyau, a little finical bewigged Frenchman with a white cravat, whom one would inevitably at first sight take to be an abbé. He calls himself an aristocrat, and never fails to respond at once to any attack upon his order. Generally he overflows with good humor; but he really has a hot and peppery temper, and as he cannot bear to be worsted in a discussion he often displays

this quality in defence of his hobby. Then there is a young Monsieur Fritz, thoroughly republican in his sympathies and evidently of good talents. He is quick-witted, and well able to hold his own in any debate whatever. He strikes me as a man of scholarship and intelligence; and between the abbé and him we are kept in lively motion, and saved from all possible chance of dulness. The two make my study of French much more agreeable than it would otherwise be, an advantage which is shared also by a young fellow from New Orleans, and Mr. Harris, a naval officer, who take their meals at our table and have the same designs upon the language as myself. The family consists of Monsieur and Madame Morel, their two daughters, and Madame's unmarried sister. One of the daughters exactly resembles my good little sister Emily, and she also bears the name of Émilie."

At the time of Dr. Warren's first acquaintance with the French capital it was, as it has ever been, unique among cities; but it was far more original and striking, more picturesque, than now, when imperial luxury and a magnificent ambition of change have toned down its ancient wrinkles and angularities, or smothered them in a sea of glittering tinsel and monotonous splendor. Haussmann and his devastating navvies were then in the dim and tumultuous future; and so were those boulevards of his which have let in the coarseness of garish light into every mysterious nook, and swept away so many coignes of vantage that once delighted the artistic eye. The new life that now dawned upon Dr. Warren was like a kaleidoscope compared with the dull surroundings of his native town and the uneventful days he had been wont to spend there; and though the crookedness of the narrow streets about him recalled in a measure the bewildering lanes with which he had been familiar, the resemblance went no further. Under every aspect Paris stood out in vivid contrast with Boston, whose Puritanical leaven and well-worn categorical ruts seemed the bequest of a remote antiquity, compared

with the novel delights of a society where each moment glittered as it disappeared, leaving the fervid glow of an electric shock. To this unwonted experience he soon adapted himself with easy and genial bonhommie. All his associations were exciting, and crowded with droll suggestions as well, and ideas heretofore unknown to his impressionable sympathies. He found an ever-fresh spring of delight in the bizarre manners and whimsical customs of the Parisians; in their petty domestic economies narrowed by the practice of ages to the finest point that human nature could endure and live; in their supreme vanity and self-satisfaction; in their speaking gestures that meant everything, and their dramatic language that meant nothing; in their politeness unequalled except by their wit and their selfishness; in their worship of l'honneur and la gloire; in their outer cleanliness and their inner lack thereof; in their food transmuted into every form of succulent enticement under every alluring name; in the marvellous taste and effulgence of the toilette, as revealed by the apparel of either sex; - in all these and innumerable other peculiar features, Dr. Warren was conscious of an enjoyment that was hourly taking on new forms. He seemed to float upon the broad current of an element theretofore unknown. was evanescent, nothing substantial. He had come from a land where life was a verity that nothing could conceal, a hard stratum of reality here and there cropping out into a picturesque eminence of fact, to dwell where life was more or less a thin tissue of fancy; where birth was a jest, marriage a convenience, and death the last scene in a melodrama; where everything was done for present effect, and when done faded away into the limbo of vanity and delusion.

All

Of all the localities in that vast and eccentric metropolis Dr. Warren could not have selected one better fitted to impress the mind of a foreigner with a sense of his

own strangeness than the Quartier Latin. It was a centre of human oddities and unbridled indulgence of every taste and whim; a motley gathering of every human vagary, stimulated by the contagion of kindred spirits, leavened with wit, and often driven, by the mere freedom from control, to display a supreme contempt for morals, for manners, and for every ordinance, human or divine. Of its peculiar aspects as revealed to the eye, a vivid description was given by Dr. Gibson, of Philadelphia, a distinguished member of Dr. Warren's profession, who at a somewhat later date pursued his studies in the Latin Quarter. It is here quoted as a truthful account of the young doctor's surroundings at the beginning of his Parisian experiences:

"My first visit upon reaching Paris was to that quarter of the town called the Pays-Latin, in which the greater number of the hospitals, the École de Médecine and its Museum, the Clinical Hospital of the School of Medicine, the Museum of Dupuytren, are situated, where all the medical students and many of the professors, private lecturers, demonstrators, medical-book sellers, instrument makers, medical artistes, anatomical workers in wax and papier-maché, preparers of natural and artificial skeletons, and other varieties of surgical and anatomical specimens reside; where the streets are so narrow and filthy, and without pavements or sidewalks, as to endanger life at every corner; where the houses are so high, old-fashioned, and gloomy as to resemble jails or penitentiaries, and nearly shut out the light of heaven; where the catacombs, those vast depositories of human bones, the accumulated collection of ages, lie beneath the feet, extend to unknown distances, and seem to respond by hollow groans to the tread of the foot-passenger, and rumble beneath the jar of cumbrous vehicles and the tramp of clumsy animals that are incessantly threading the narrow defiles above their desolate but populous domains; where innumerable smells of concentrated vigor and activity and varied odor assail the olfactories from every quarter; where loud and discordant cries of wandering tribes of vagabonds, vending their peculiar animal and vegetable productions, fall upon the