A contrast to the one amid whose glow
Of life and light he stood an hour ago.
Calmly and sweetly the moonlight shone
On a large square picture, the only one;
It represented a mother and child.
Fair was her face, but, oh! so deep and wild
Was the look of anguish pictured there,
You read in each feature grief and despair.
The child seemed in its dying agony,
Wasted and wan his cheek, his glazing eye

Was fized upon its mother's wistfully.

Down the artist's cheek came the trickling tears

As he gazed on that picture, the buried years

Which had passed since his pencil the painting had wrought,
Came hurrying back on the wings of thought;

A weight seemed pressed on his burning brain,
And he lived o'er that terrible night again;
And again he heard that death-shriek dread,

Of his starving child-bread, bread-give me bread !

ODD FELLOWSHIP IN FRANCE.

OPENING A NEW LODGE AT ROUEN, IN NORMANDY, AND REMINISCENCES OF A JOURNEY THERE.

BY THOMAS LANCASTER, P. PROV. G. M.

HAVING been officially engaged upon this pleasing mission, I feel that a few details, connected therewith, may not be devoid of interest to the members of our Order; relating as they do to, one of the most interesting events connected with Odd Fellowship. The localities of which I have to speak, have, I am fully aware, been frequently described by abler pens than mine; but those descriptions may not have fallen into the hands of all my brethren, and mine certainly must, in some degree, be interesting to each of them, in consequence of their having relation to so important a matter as the planting the tree of Odd Fellowship in a region so far from its native soil. Despite the rapid advances made by our Order in Great Britain, and many other lands, it has ever been to me, and doubtless to many others, a matter of extreme regret, that we should have found so little success upon the vast continent of Europe; that the whole of that wide field should have been to us as a sealed book; and while our brothers, travelling in other quarters of the globe, could enjoy the comforts, or participate in the blessings of Odd Fellowship, yet, those who were only separated from us by a narrow slip of water, and a comparatively insignificant distance, were absolutely deprived thereof; and it was, therefore, with considerable pleasure, that I accompanied my colleagues in office, in 1843, in the opening of the St. Peire Lodge, at Calais, and, upon that occasion, I expressed my positive conviction, that our excellent Order, being once established upon the shores of France, and once acknowledged by the authorities, would surely prosper and would be found of inestimable benefit to the inhabitants and all connected therewith.

My prophecy, with regard to its speedy advancement and increase, has early been fulfilled, by an application being made to our September District Committee, for a Dispensation to open a new Lodge at Rouen, in Normandy, which application was made to us from the Lodge at Calais; to the kindly assistance and advice of the officers and members of which Lodge, the Order is indebted for. the opening of the Star of Normandy, by which name the gentlemen forming the new Lodge, wished it to be designated. The application was granted, and by a subsequent vote of the committee, I was honoured with the appointment to proceed to Rouen, to officiate at the opening; and I need not say that I received with considerable pleasure and gratitude, this additional proof of the confidence placed in me by my District.

On Saturday morning, November 23rd, I left London by the Brighton Railway, en route, for Rouen, by way of. Dieppe, and the only annoyance, or regret I felt, was,

that I had, by unavoidale circumstances, been deprived of the company of several friends who had promised to accompany me; my worthy D. G. M. Bateman having actually his luggage packed, and passport provided for the occasion, and yet was compelled to decline the anticipated pleasure the trip promised to afford him. I therefore went quite alone. The day, however, was fine, and after parting with my friends at the terminus, I went rapidly on, hailing the auspicious change in the previously miserable state of the atmosphere, as a fortunate omen of the result of my mission.

The transit from London to Brighton requires but little comment, being performed in about two hours. Whilst on the journey, I witnessed that truly English sight, a fox hunt. The hounds were in full cry, and ran well together; in fact, in sporting parlance, you might have covered them with a table cloth; and their music was exhilarating.

An old Brighton fisherman was in the carriage with me from the junction with the Dover line, from whom I learned that he bad left his home on the preceding day, had broken his arm in France, had left Boulogne after it had been set, and was now returning, having come by Fokeston that morning from Boulogne. His arm, he said, was doing well, and the old sailor seemed somewhat pleased with the very short space of time in which all these travels and events had been encountered. A slip of the earth, from one part of the rail, had occurred a few hours before we passed, but it occasioned us no inconvenience; hundreds of men were, however, congregated around the spot, who had but just completed the repair as our train passed over it. When the train arrived at the Brighton terminus, the sun was shining brilliantly, as in spring, and the whole town seemed alive with its splendour. Equestrian and pedestrian passengers thronged the streets, and upon the new Steyne, and the Grand Parade, was a continuous line of many hundreds of aristocratic equipages, filled with splendidly-dressed ladies. At this period of the year, Brighton is in the height of its best season; I say its best season, for, contrary to the usual custom of what are termed watering places, it has two, one in summer, when the London merchant, or tradesman, with his family, luxuriates in the balmy sea breezes, and fine scenery that Brighton affords him; and the other in autumn, or early winter, when, upon the departure of this class, the Brightonians are honoured with the presence, and benefitted by the outlay of the aristocracy. The latter season is the most profitable; and I was informed, that so great was the difference in the expenditure of the two classes, that furnished houses, which at that season were let at fourteen pounds per week, could, in the summer, be obtained for less than half that sum. I, of course, speak of first-class mansions; although rent, and indeed all besides, is exceedingly dear there. It is a very handsome, and evidently, a prosperous town. The shops are spacious and showy, the houses clean, and the streets, paved with red bricks, present a remarkable appearance to a visitor. The most conspicuous object in Brighton is the Pavillion, which, however, is now closed against the public, unless they have a special order; the reason assigned being the same unfortunate charge so frequently brought against our countrymen, namely, that they will not keep their hands from defacing any works of art to which they are admitted. The Chain Pier is a very handsome and well-known structure. Passing down High Street, and along the Steyne, and Cliffs, I made my way to the usual resort of an Odd Fellow-the Lodge. house. The Brunswick Lodge, is now held at the Lea House, Middle Street, and, fortunately, I found there, P. G. Channon, of that Lodge, by whose kindness I was speedily introduced to several of the past and present officers of that District, and a short time afterwards, as night drew on, a snug party of about a dozen, was assembled to welcome me, including the G. M., C. S., and two P. G. Ms. of the District, and a cosy hour we spent, around a good fire in a neat little parlour, discoursing on that never-ending theme-Odd Fellowship. The Order, I found, was prosperous at this town; but, though established upwards of twenty years, is yet but very imperfectly understood by the inhabitants. At seven o'clock, escorted by Mr. Ancock, P. G. M., and relieving officer, and Mr. Philps, Prov. C. S., I left the house to proceed by the branch railway, to Shoreham Harbour, which I did, with some regret at leaving this pleasant party; and I beg to return my thanks to the gentlemen I have alluded to, for their kindness during my brief sojourn in their pretty, but most expensive, town.

The journey to Kingston harbour is a very short one, a few miles only. Upon alighting at the station, I consigned my luggage, Dispensation, &c., to the care of one of the attendants, who said it was his duty, to convey them down to the steam packet.

I thought this was exceedingly polite upon the part of the railway authorities, but my opinion was somewhat altered, when, upon arriving at the vessel's side, sixpence each parcel was demanded in return for this politeness, which I paid him quietly, having no alternative. Not so a little irrascible Frenchman, who was returning home-he thundered out a thousand sacres et sacre nom de Dieu, upon the man's head, for what he thought was an imposition; but being in French, they fell harmless upon the porter, who certainly was not the guilty party.

Our ship, the Menai, lay ready for her passage, and after one of us had attended to the safe stowage of our luggage, we found that there were yet some three hours before the time fixed for our departure, which was dependant upon the tides, and this interval we had to spend as well as we could. Accordingly we went to a house at the dock gates, called an hotel, but it proved not deserving this high-sounding name, being nothing but a common country ale house, and not the best of its kind. The time soon arrived for going on board to secure our berths, &c., which is at all times the first thing to be done, as every voyager well knows. This important point being arranged as satisfactorily as the circumstances would admit of, I went on deck, and, enveloped in my cloak, solaced myself with my Meerschaum travelling companion, (for I am addicted to the pleasant vice of smoking,) and watched the preparations busily made by the crew for our departure. The captain came on board-the ship bell was sounded—and the good ship, Menai, quickly but carefully left the harbour. Upon emerging into the open waters of the ocean, the whole scene was splendid. The moon had risen, and cast her pale, mellow light, upon the water with a degree of splendour I have never seen equalled, except in the works of our first marine artists-the sea was smooth as glass, its surface undisturbed by a breath of wind, and only influenced by the restless motion so peculiar to itself— while a long bright row of light showed us the fast-receding town of Brighton, and Bearly Head, and its light too, were visible to us from the deck.

I remained enjoying the scene, and the conversation of some of my fellow-passengers, for an hour or two, and then retired to my berth, where, making myself as comfortable as the five-feet-by-two box, the hard bed, and scanty covering would allow, I soon fell asleep, but in a short time after was awoke by the disagreeable noise made by some gentlemen in my bed-room, who were troubled with that unpleasant malady, sea-sickness; so, pulling on my boots, I went on deck again, to avoid, if possible, the contagion, which I succeeded in doing. I found the crew hoisting the sails, as the captain found a slight breeze arising, of which he wished to have the benefit. After a short time I went below again, and as the noise had somewhat abated, I was soon in the arms of Morpheus. My slumber was of short duration, for one of the crew, to avoid his watch, had esconsced himself in the berth above me, and being discovered he was dragged from it most unceremoniously by one of the mates about four o'clock in the morning. Aroused by the scuffle, I again went on deck, but the scene had greatly changed; the moon had gone down, and all was pitchy darkness above us and around us, except in our wake, where the vessel, in her passage through the waters, seemed to leave a track of living fire. The expected breeze, too, had come, and the ship, yielding to its influence, was rolling in the sea in a very uncomfortable way to a landsman; and in trying to look out ahead I received a visitation from father Neptune, in the shape of a huge wave, that speedily sent me to my cabin, not quite so dry as I had left it. Again I sought my little cupboard of a berth, and slept till daylight, when I went on deck, and by a long dark line upon the water, at the extreme point of vision, I found we were in sight of land. Ma belle France was the exclamation of our French passenger, uttered apparently with heart-felt joy; and so it proved, for the low black line I saw was Dieppe, though still several miles distant.

On reaching the harbour of Dieppe, which was from the state of the tide a work of some time and difficulty, the first thing that attracted my attention was an immense crucifix, placed upon one of the walls forming the entrance to the harbour, and upon it a full-sized representation of our Saviour, of the same proportion, and coloured to represent reality with a minuteness almost painful to look at; and in the background a curious-looking structure, bearing this inscription,—Atribute de nation pour le Grand Napoleon. I know not the legend attached to these effigies of piety and gratitude, but the effect upon the mind of the stranger visiting the shores of France for the first time, must be of a very peculiar and interesting kind.

Upon arriving at the station assigned for the debarkation of passengers from the steam boat, two exceedingly fierce-looking douaniers, or custom-house officers, came

on board, and stationed themselves on either side of the gangway, to prevent us taking any of our luggage on shore, until it had been officially examined by the custom-house authorities. By these gentlemen we were passed singly over the side of the vessel to land, when we found ourselves between a double line of gens-des-armes and douaniers, whose swords, large cocked hats, moustachios and beards, had a most formidable appearance. They intimated by a gesture, as we passed them, that we were to go on until we reached the bureau of M. le Commisaire d'Actrois, which we did, having, in fact, no other choice allowed us; as to escape from our armed line of guards was impossible. I need not say how repugnant all these proceedings are to the national feeling of an Englishman, who, accustomed at home to personal liberty of motion, feels unable to understand why he should submit to such a course, and is frequently disposed almost to resent what he feels to be an invasion upon his rights.

In the bureau, or office, we found the Commisaire seated in a sort of iron cage, through the bars of which we passed our passports, and after they were examined, we were, one by one, allowed to pass through the cage into another, where two bearded functionaries, in uniform and with drawn swords, did us the favour of searching our pockets and persons, until they were satisfied we had nothing in our possession they conceived to be improper. This done, we were at liberty, and were conducted out into the street, and told to apply in a couple of hours for our passports and luggage. I at once went to the diligence office to secure my place to Rouen, as I knew there was but little time to lose, as I must reach that place the same night, or be too late for the opening of the Lodge upon the next day. At the office I found a gens-de-arme who politely told me that I must not take my place, or be allowed to leave Dieppe until I produced my passport, properly examined and passed by the officials of the government; I had two hours to wait before this could be obtained, which I spent in surveying the ancient, but dirty and mean-looking, town of Dieppe. I walked up the main street, and although it was Sunday, and high mass was actually being performed in the cathedral, yet there was an utter absence of all that quiet and decorum by which the Sabbath is distinguished in England-the shops were all open, the street hawkers were pursuing their usual avocations, the bands were playing in the street for the mustering of the national and municipal guards, and the artizans were each at work at their different trades as upon any other day. Dieppe appears to be remarkable for nothing in the shape of manufacture, unless it be for ivory carriages, most elaborate specimens of which art appear in the shops, and are both beautiful in execution, and interesting in the subjects they illustrate.

Dieppe is merely an old fishing town, and has only been raised from its original insignificance into a place of some importance, from the fact of its being the most convenient port for landing on the line to Paris from Brighton. The most important building in the town is the cathedral, which is a very imposing structure; it is evidently of great antiquity, and is esteemed by competent judges to be second to very few in Europe, in the beautiful proportions of the exterior. A party of us from the Menai entered, and witnessed the conclusion of mass, which was being celebrated by the choristers and priests; it is an exceedingly interesting sight when witnessed for the first time, and cannot fail to impress itself upon the memory of the visitor. The solemn chaunting of the choir, the sonorous tones of the priests, the loud pealing of the organ, together with the devotional attitude, and apparent piety of the congregation, altogether form a very remarkable scene. A shaven priest, in his long dark gown, accompanied by a sous officier of the town guard was going round the church, collecting alms from the charitable, in a magnificent silver salver; they waited upon our party soon after our entering, and I, having no French coin, gave them an English penny, for which I received a polite bow from the officier, and a benedicite from the monk. In one part of the sacred building, there was a large number of those ladies, called by the French, les Sœurs de Charité, (Sisters of Charity) who are a body devoted by their professional vow to deeds of mercy and charity. I believe they are not nuns, although they wear their romantic garb. They are to be seen clothed in the black serge gown, and snowwhite coif, with a cross, formed of white linen, upon the breast, walking about every town in France, searching for those to whom their kindly ministrations can be serviceable. They officiate as nurses at the bed of the poor man, and administer to him both spiritual and bodily comforts, and either in the public hospital, or the private dwelling, they are equally willing to give their assistance and attendance whenever requisite. I was informed

that they are mostly ladies of birth and wealth who thus devote themselves for life to alleviating the distress of their fellow-creatures wheresoever they may find it; and I need hardly say that they are much and deservedly respected.

Upon leaving the cathedral, we all partook of breakfast at a French hotel, upon the Grand Place, where, for twenty-five sous, or one shilling English, we had a plentiful supply of eggs, French bread, and most delicious coffee; afrer which we proceeded to the office of M. le Commissaire de Police, for our passport, and as we were not aware of the locality, though quite close to it, we requested one of the innumerable band of porters, and agents for the hotels, that haunt this, as well as every other landing place upon the continent, to show us the way. In five minutes his task was done, and I gave him a sixpence, which I fancied was good pay; but our French friend thought differently, and abused us in the French language most flatteringly for not paying him more, and at length when the police were called, he left us, remarking in the most complimentary style, that he could see we were only a "pack of English thieves.”

M. le Commissaire took my passport from me altogether, telling me I should find it at my journey's end, and gave me in its stead, what they call a provisional passport, which would serve me as well in the interim; for this piece of kindness he charged me three-and-a-half francs; the payment of the money appeared to me to be the only thing of any importance in the whole transaction. From thence I went to the custom house, to get my luggage searched. My carpet bag, &c., after being duly examined, and their contents exhibited in another iron cage, by me, to the proper officer, were allowed to pass; but when I uncorded and unlocked the Dispensation, a vast discussion arose. The officer said it could not be allowed to pass, as it belonged to a secret society; to this I would not give way, and he then went for his superior officer. I explained to him the nature of the article, and after stating to him the fact of the authorities of Rouen and Calais having both sanctioned its use, he allowed it to pass; but upon opening the parcel which contained the books for the Lodge, he pounced upon the printed ones, and insisted, in spite of all my arguments, in detaining all the General and District Laws, List of Lodges, Almanack, Charges, Lecture Book and Supplement, until I produced or procured an order from the Minister of the Interior, to the effect that the laws regarding printed books should not be enforced in this case. In vain I pleaded the importance of the case, and showed the different conduct of the officer at Calaisand useless was my offer to pay for them whatever he thought fit to charge. He was inflexible; nor were they given up until I had made the application he alluded to, and at least two months elapsed before the books were returned. He did, however, allow me to seal them, and I believe the seal was held sacred.

set?

I was now in an awkward predicament. I had depended upon the conduct pursued towards us by the officer at Calais, and had taken no precaution against such an event as this, which left me without book, card, or copy of any of the charges, or duties, required for opening the Lodge. The question now was, should I go on, or return for another If I were to return, I knew full well I could not be at Rouen in proper time, and I at last resolved that I would go on, and trust for the whole of the charges to a nfemory that had never failed me. Fortunately, I have had to assist at the opening of nearly fifty Lodges, and always being careful to learn my charge, my confidence in my memory was not misplaced, for on the next day I went through the whole of the charges without, I believe, a single material error.

Having thus resolved to go on, I caught up some of my remaining luggage, and essayed to leave the custom house for the diligence office; but here again I was compelled to abandon my intention, for I was at once surrounded by nearly fifty porters, who seemed determined that I should not go, unless they carried my luggage for me, and I paid them for it. There was no alternative but submission, and these chattering gentlemen received about fifteen or eighteenpence of my money for what I could have done myself in five minutes; and on arriving at the office I found, from the clerk, that I could not leave that day, as all the seats in the diligence were engaged. This I found afterwards was a mere subterfuge. and only said that he might be enabled to ascertain, whether or not, I wanted to go particularly that day; he soon found I did, and recommended me to engage a post-chaise, and upon my going to inquire about one, I was told the price would be sixty francs, or nearly twelve times the sum I expected to pay. This, of course, was out of the question, and upon returning to the office, he, with much apparent kindness, told me that there was a place for which a deposit had been paid,