sat when he witnessed the discomfiture of his fleet, on the right, while the waters through which our barque was cutting her way were the same on which the Greek and Persian armaments had closed in deadly conflict. The long island of Salamis relieved dark against the western sky; and as we ran past with the flowing sail which these Greek boats always carry, heavy gusts of wind came down from between its serrated peaks, and made us roll uncomfortably in a heap to leeward. Wrapt in my cloak, I slept, like the rest, on deck; and, on awaking at early dawn, found that we were just running into the harbour of Cenchrea.

Cenchrea was formerly the port of Corinth, on the eastern side of the isthmus, and must have been a place of no small importance; it now consists merely of a few poor houses, in one of which—a wine-shop-we recruited ourselves with bread and eggs and a cup of coffee, and then hired horses to convey us across the isthmus to Corinth. It was at Cenchrea that St. Paul, or, as others contend, his companion, Aquila, "shaved himself, having a vow." About half-way across the isthmus, a beautiful retrospective view is obtained of the port and the Gulf of Athens. Here, also, the mighty rock of the Acrocorinthus, which had been our landmark as we approached the shore, now stood out before us with the most commanding grandeur, swelling up from the plain to an elevation of two thousand feet, and casting an immense shadow completely across the isthmus. The Acropolis of Athens-a mere molehill in comparison-is indebted to art for the perfection of beauty which it once presented; but here, it is Nature herself who has reared this stupendous citadel, over which the revolutions of ages pass powerless away. Nearly three thousand years have elapsed since this natural fortress was fixed upon, under the title of the Acrocorinthus, as the citadel of the city of Corinth, which grew up around its base.

As we pursued our way, we encountered files of peasantry, the men arrayed in the gay jacket and juxtonilla, or in rough sheepskin cloaks, and the women wearing a flat head-dress of