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prove a sore puzzle to our trooper or man of the ranks. Four of them, standing at the angles of a square, will pitch a half-hundred weight each to the man on his left, who seizing it by the grasping bar before it finds the ground, heaves it to his neighbour, and ten or fifteen minutes will be spent at this manly exercise, and the weight never touch the clay. He is personally brave, and his inferiority to an English, Irish, Scotch, or French man is owing to imperfect arms, bad discipline, and want of interest in the cause of strife. Passing a better sort of cottage on the way, ten or twelve of these warriors, naked to the waist, turned out, and paid their respects to the little party with every appearance of good feeling. The route lay partly at the foot of a range of hills, and the scenery and condition of the roads varied considerably as they proceeded. They would now be laboriously struggling through mud, and wet, and ruts; now hid by the profuse vegetation on each side; now enjoying from a narrow hard road, winding round an eminence, a fine view, embracing hill scenery, villages shaded by large walnut trees, and the winding course of one of the nine rivers that fall into the two gulfs between the Peiho and the seaextremity of the Great Wall. They were particularly delighted with the landscape near Lanchow, presenting a conical hill with a temple on top, the town itself, some Irish-looking cabins, and the river with its numerous craft floating gaily upon its current.

white, and embroidered with a profusion of animals, winged and otherwise, two carefully dressed bows of hair at each side of the head, the plaited back-hair dangling behind, and an ungraceful thick-soled pair of shoes.

During their progress through Mantchuria they saw several women having undeformed feet, but they were only exceptions to the prevailing horrible custom. The wives and daughters of peasants and farmers value the unsightly appendages equally with ladies, who, to use an Irishism, do nothing but drink tea and make curtsies. Mr. Fleming once witnessed the unbandaging and displaying of one of the golden lilies," and did not recover some time. Of all the toes except the big one, there remained but white seams formed on the sole, where they were bent down in childhood. The instep had been ulcerated and disfigured in the process, and all below the knee was as shrunk and deformed as Richard III.'s arm.

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for

In the south of China some houses of two storeys are to be met with, but along our travellers' route they found none but one-storeyed buildings. Some attribute this usage to a feeling of respect towards the temples, others to the inconvenience "a getting up stairs" would cause to the

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golden lilies." Generally the interiors are destitute of ornament. The concave and convex tiled roofs receive all the attention that can be spared. John Chinaman is much Near this town Mr. Fleming lost occupied with the present. He his heart to a Chinese, more proba- would not, even if blessed with a bly, Tartar beauty, as her feet, though Nile and convenient quarries, ever sinall, had not undergone the horrible think of hewing out immense blocks process to which those of most of stone, extracting gigantic images Chinese women are subjected. He from them, and rafting them down devotes three pages of the thick octavo stream. He makes a clay joss, volume to a record of her charms burns incense before it, perhaps sets little enough in a novel, but rather it in a road side sanctuary, rings the too much in a sober book of bell depending from a tree to warn travels, especially as her forehead his god that he is going to perform and neck were plastered with his devotions, walks off with a clear white, and her cheek and under conscience, the duty being done, and lip with red pigment. It is several if his idol comes to grief, gets anoyears since that which was distin- ther constructed at little expense. guished by our lune de miel, so pass- He makes the most of every transing over charins of eyes, mouth, action, and practises a wise economy and other features, we trouble our on all occasions. He probably has readers to remember only the lower charge of swine in a muddy district, edge of a pair of pink trousers, a where he is obnoxious to heavy loose robe of blue silk, bound with showers. He thatches himself with

VOL. LXII.-CCCLXVII.

7

a cloak of rushes, wears a hat
broader than a sieve, discards stock-
ings, and thus despises the heaviest
shower. He prefers in his house-
walls wood and perishable brick to
stone, which, if lasting longer, would
for the moment be more expensive.
He cannot go to the expense of
paving, lighting, and sewering his
muddy suburbs, nor pay the scaven-
No; he
ger for going his rounds.
gives the run of the streets to a
famished race of dogs and pigs, who
do the duty of the Galinazo vultures
in South American cities, and the
dogs of Constantinople. He can
scarcely afford an inviolable asylum
to the mortal remains of his father
and mother: depositing them in his
gardens, he even turns his ancestors
to account. Dirty John!

People of little or no faith, either in England or China, are proverbially subject to abject superstitious fears. The Chinese master of the house will not have one door facing another, in order that the haunting demon may have the more trouble in his exits and entrances. If his house faces the end of a lane, he inserts a brick in the wall with a charm engraved thereon, to resist the evil issuing from the opening. He gets fiercelooking genii painted on each half of his door, to frighten away other illdisposed genii. His master-charm is. a pair of tadpoles (one black, the other white) inscribed in a circle, one interior waving curve forming an outline for both. This is surrounded by eight series of short flat rulers, three in each some whole, some divided. All these are supposed to be emblematic of the active and passive principles in nature, and very powerful.

The Pharisees were not more interested in the appearance of holy inscriptions on their forehead-bands and their door-posts than the Chinaman in the exhibition of “longevity" and good-luck" on his eaves, his garments, and other convenient places, the words being supposed to have the force of a charm.

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In his dress, and its variations in hot and cold weather, the Chinaman deserves imitation by the outer barbarians. White or blue cotton is the ordinary material in summer heat, and a sort of loose net-work, interposing between the skin and the out

side light garb, affords great comfort by allowing a circulation of air over the surface of the skin. You will see a thin, wiry man increasing in bulk from the first chill of incipient winter, till he becomes own brother to Falstaff by the time the cold is at its worst. At its first relaxation he commences to thin his dress, till there is nothing between himself and the sun but the net and the thin robe of calico. Winter and summer his neck is bare, which saves him from the visitations of bronchial affections.

Some opium smoking was witnessed by Mr. Fleming at Tien-Tsin, and on his journey. He observed all its stages, from the simple expression of content on the features to that of the highest beatitude, and then the dazed and stupified state, ending in insensibility. He deplores the custom, but looks on the boisterous behaviour of our own drunkards, and the confusion they cause, as much worse than the solitary self-enjoyment of the victim of opium.

The Lien-Wha--water-lily, (Faba Egyptica, or Lotus), is as much prized by the Chinese as by the ancient Egyptians. They eat the roots raw or boiled; also the seeds. The beautiful plant is found in all pictures where Buddha is represented. It is sacred to Fo in China, as it was to Osiris and Isis in Egypt, being looked on as emblematic of nature in the Pantheistic sense.

It was gratifying to see all along the route, on both sides, such unceasing and never-tiring industry; but no more sign of improvement in the fashion of the implements or the modes of labour than in the days of Confucius..

"For the first time we saw the ploughthat primitive wooden implement of Chinese industry, constructed by the traditional Shin-Nong, the second Chinese emperor, some two and a half thousand years before the Christian era, and probably as simple and rude as he left it, with the beam and single handle or shaft, the wooden share, and the narrow, nearly horizontal, light, iron coulter, that performs the functions of a mould as well as making a scratchy furrow but a few inches deep. It was drawn by a man at the end of the beam, the ploughman putting his shoulder to the perpendicular bar placed for that purpose, besides guiding the direction of the machine."

At Ning-Hae, the city under the

wall, the local authorities gave considerable annoyance to the explorers by examining and re-examining the Chinese passport. Mr. Fleming, not being able to obtain permission to climb the mountains on the Tartar side of the boundary, climbed them without leave under the broiling sunlight, lost his barometer and aneroid, and was near to losing his life.

Proceeding N.E. through Mantchuria, they looked out diligently for the remains of those cities which Father Verbiest in his travels mentions as having been unpeopled and destroyed by Tient-Sung, the father of the first emperor of the present Mantchu dynasty. His object was to force his people to win an inheritance in China, seeing they had now no homes to return to.

"We could see nothing of these dilapidated cities till we came to Ning-YuenChow, agreeably situated a short distance from a good level road, and among trees, but where, at present, everything was lonely and desolate, as we peeped within

the gateway of the crumbling enclosure. Not a living thing stirred; the houses were rootless, and the greater number of the walls thrown down, while the central street, up which we glanced, was untrodden, and monopolised by weeds or green-scummed pools. The gray havoc of age, and apparent wanton destruction, seemed to point to this period of Chinese history, when

quiet citizens were deprived of their homes, and forced to bear arms under the im patient Mantchus, and afforded us the only example or proof of the probability of such an occurrence as that mentioned by the worthy Jesuit."

In their progress they found at intervals several of those towers supposed to be built in order to defend the country from the Japanese. The hero of Tartar romance, Kublai Khan, invaded Japan in 1280, and was not only unsuccessful, but that exclusive and high-spirited people returned the hostile visit with interest, ravaged the Mautchu and Chinese coasts, and gave such trouble that these towers, parallel to the coast, were built about 1388, by Hung-Woo, of the Ming dynasty, in order to prevent those Eastern sea-kings from doing more mischief. These towers were as little available against the Japanese as the Great Wall was against the Mongols and Mantchus, in the middle of the seventeenth century.

This stupendous monument of misdirected industry has now stood upwards of 2,000 years. China at that time was ruled by several powerful feudatories, owning a nominal subjection to the Emperor. One of these feudal chiefs, Chau-Siang-Wang, deposed the Emperor Tung-Chau-Kiun, the last of the Chow dynasty, broke the power of his brother lords, governed the country by thirty-six lieutenants, made many progresses through his empire to see his laws justly administered, cut canals, and achieved several other useful projects. He died, however, before the wall was completed, and his son was defeated by a soldier of fortune who commenced the Han dynasty.

The nearer our wanderers approached the old Tartar capital, the more uncrippled women they found, and the greater was the consumption of tobacco by men, women, and children. This plant was abused by the inhabitants of Mantchuria, many hundred years before Sir Walter Raleigh planted potatoes at Youghal. The treatment they generally met was of an annoying character, arising from the curiosity of the natives; but at New-Chwang they were in some danger. This town is not far from the unhealthy seaport, Ying-Tse, at the bottom of the Gulf of Liau-Tong. During the entire journey they lost nothing by thieves, either in cash or property, to the value of a shilling; a pleasing fact, and one that puts the Northern Chinese in agreeable contrast to those of the South, where there is a British settlement. In the neighbourhood of Moukden they found a curious Lama monument, of which a woodcut is given, and the old capital itself turned out to be one of the cleanest and best laid out cities they had yet seen. They were in no personal danger in the place; but the eagerness of the people to get a near view of them and their belongings, and the zeal with which the intruders were repulsed by the police, were productive of the most ludicrous and annoying scenes. The backward route has been already mentioned.

Mr. Fleming's work is a most agreeable and valuable addition to our stock of standard books of travel and adventure. A little too much space is, perhaps, devoted to the personal discomforts of the author and

his friends; but, on the whole, the work is unquestionably one of the very freshest, the most amusing, and the most curious of that Chinese series, which opportunity and enterprise are now so rapidly giving to the

world. The roughly executed map makes the route thoroughly intelligible; and the author has not forgotten to add that most desirable appendage-a carefully-compiled index.

SONGS OF ULSTER, IN MANY MOODS.

Snatches of old sayings that imply
So much more than they express."

No. IV. "LOVE AND MONEY." BY FRANCIS DAVIS.

OH, sitting and sighing the live-long day,

I cannot sing now as I used to do!

What is the reason-can any one say

There's such woe in a world that's so fair to view?

Sing-is it-Jenny, the same as before?

Oh, my poor head aches, and my heart's so sore!

I knew I was poor, and that that was a sin
In the eyes of many who said "No-no!"
But the one sweet voice took my poor heart in,
For to Harry I thought I was all below.
Could I feel I was poor when he called me fair,
As he looked in my eyes and stroked my hair!

Oh, love's like a harp of a thousand strings,
And girls are silly that sit in its way;
For love will talk of a thousand things
That nothing but love could think or say;
And maidens who list what they'd rather believe,
It weren't so easy to undeceive!

That I lay in his light, they had told me long,
For Nelly had riches and beauty, too;

But my heart was weak, and my love was strong,
And I felt it hard to know how to do.
To look in that face, and to bid him "good-bye!"
I knew would be sore, but I said I would try.

How I stood, that eve between eight and nine,
Where the willow bends to the blighted yew,

While wee Flora looked up with the mournful whine,

You'd have thought she knew all that my poor heart knew:
And on Harry I gazed till my eyes grew dim

And he seemed like a mist on the far sky's rim.

I had shaken his hand-I had said "good-bye!"
I had said little more to it, neither had he,
But had looked in my face with a tear in his eye-
Ah, the money alone made him false to me!
Oh! is it a wonder I sing no more-

That my poor head aches-that my heart's so sore?

BELLA DONNA; OR, THE CROSS BEFORE THE NAME.

BOOK THE SECOND-continued.

CHAPTER III.

THE LOVESICK CURATE.

THE noble creature went back to her obscurity again, to the humdrum drudgery of child cultivation; she had had a little glimpse of the world outside, which was not to be for her; she had stood a moment at Eden's gate a sort of governess Peri disconsolate; and had even secured for herself, by this willing instrument, a sort of thread, ever so fine, to join her to those sweet old associations. Who could blame her for looking back through the bars of her prison-gate? The curate went down exulting. He came home to his first floor over the shop in his mean country town, and it did not seem to him quite so blank, or so bare. The flavour of provisions did not ascend to him quite so rank or strong.

For the first night or two he had company over his little cottage grate --for it did not rise to much higher dignity. He lay back in his chair, and wasted many precious hours idly dreaming, and entertaining this profitable society. He constructed all manner of theatrical pictures, which seemed to him very sweet and softwith figures in the centre; and one figure (arrayed in silken vestings and general clergymanical finery), doing much chivalry. He put this poupée into all manner of splendid situations, made its face impressive, its speech slow and grand, while its interior heart was being racked and wrung with agonies of love, jealousy, rage, and despair. He made it retire in noble situations, with dignity and indifference, filling those who were left behind with wonder, curiosity, disappointment, and unspeakable admiration. Miss Jenny Bell was always left behind under

these emotions.

In these proceedings in lunacy were several useful nights consumed. There was a sermon for the approaching Sunday lying on his desk, the first page of which had been "got in," but

which he did not let interfere with his amatory meditations. He had now a curious repugnance to this setting together dry religious bones into improving shapes; and it seemed the most dreary, dismal task, that man could conceive. Here, however, it was now come to Saturday morning, and the thing must be scrambled over somehow.

He used to delight in his sermonmaking. He used to touch and polish, and refine, and repair, and read choice passages to the young ladies, in anticipation. He was proud of the work; and the young ladies used to talk over at dinner, little neat odd bits, small scraps of originality which struck them. His soul was then all in the parish. He was enthusiastic. Now, a spiritual dryness was come upon him.

He leant a little to the new theology, and was fond-merely in an amateur way of turning over in his fingers, the prettier portions; just as he would admire a little china teacup, or a bit of filigree. He and the young ladies had ever so much aesthetic talk about the non-essentials. He had all the Oxford Fathers, bound in green, looking down from the shelves; and was in the habit of saying, there is really much originality in some of Doctor Newman's writings. He wore, too, a lovely silk waistcoat, which seemed like a little black san benito, covering his chest, with a hole to allow easy exit for his neck.

The Sunday's sermon was not much. It was unavoidable that there should be marks of haste, which might be pardoned, as the missionary work was heavy; but it was short-offensively short. Long sermons may be soporific; but there is a latent respect implied. Brevity brings with it suspicion of a contempt or wish to be rid of the duty speedily, as being done per contract. It was said even there

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