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Journal of a Tour taken in 1701, from
LONDON to PARIS.

(Continued from vol. LXXXVIII. p. 496.)
PARIS.

Sept. 5.

1701.

do but seek a lodging
T was so late we had nothing

and being perfect strangers should,
perhaps, have been under some diffi-
culty, but that a very obliging French
gentleman of our company, who I
believe was a Protestant, and had
heard our conversation with the
priest in the coach, persuaded us to
accompany him to an auberge in St.
Zachary's-street, at the sign of the
Galley, which answered the character
he gave of it; for we found the people
very civil, and our entertainment free
and easy.
We paid little more, as
money now goes in France, than half
a crown English per head, per day,
for three meals and lodging. The
breakfast allowed was but small, con-
sisting, à la Française, of a crust of
bread and a glass of wine; but our
dinners and suppers were plentiful,
commonly of seven or eight dishes,
served up in their way, small and
mostly of kickshaws (quelque choses)
as we call them; yet there was always
enough for the company and to spare.
There were generally ten or twelve
at dinner, and as many at supper,
with good attendance, and as much
wine as we chose of the common be-
verage at our meals-what is called
for after the removal of the cloth, is
extra, and an additional charge. Our
landlord said he was a Protestant, and
that there were forty thousand in that
city ready with hearts and hands on
occasion; but we had nothing to do
with matters of that kind, and avoid-
ed such discourse, for we were cau-
tious of trepans and bastiles.

Sept. 6. We walked into the city, -
which we found in general to be built
of stone and white brick; mostly of
the former, with some rough cast.
The streets were straight and well
paved. The houses in general were
four and five, and some six stories
high. Thegreat Church of Notre Dame,
dedicated to the Virgin, is a lofty
large building, and it seems owes its
foundation to the English. The great
altar is very rich, with vast silver can-
dlesticks and lamps, and a very curious
piece of work of beaten gold, in the
nature of a canopy, hanging over the
pix, which contains the consecrated
wafer or Holy Sacrament. At the
west end of the body of the Church,

just after we had entered on the right hand, is an huge gigantic statue of St. Christopher, standing on a rock. It is accounted an extraordinary piece of sculpture. Here is an abundance of fine monuments, with numerous chapels and rich altar-pieces. In the body of the Church hangs the portrait of a Moorish Prince of the Gold Coast, who lately visited Paris; and whilst he was there, his Father died. The French King thereupon caused him to be crowned in Paris, and has sent him home with many priests and Jesuits to attempt the conversion of his Moorish subjects to Christianity. At the West end of this Cathedral are two towers, each having 380 steps. In one of them is a set of eight bells, and one extra, the biggest being about or near seven feet in diameter at the mouth. From the top we viewed the city, this Church being in the centre; it appeared very compact, and almost round. It comprizes a vast tract of ground, though to our conception it is not two thirds of the size of London; but this city being circular, and London extending in length, it is difficult to judge correctly. It must be considered that the latter has been much increased of late years; and that in Paris, building has been long since forbidden by the King; and as the river Seine is not navigable except by small boats, it can be no port-consequently it wants much of the trade that London enjoys; nor has it the King's residence and Court there. I therefore cannot see (though it be the Metropolis of a much greater kingdom) how it should be so large, rich, ́ or populous as London, when the latter vied with it some years ago.

It is said that the French King never lay a night in Paris in his life, or at least since he was 14 years of age. He comes, indeed, to the Louvre, sometimes on important occasions, or for pleasure; but will not trust himself long in the town, either for that his Grandfather was murdered there, or for that there are a great many Protestants in the city, whom he has persecuted, and may therefore fear; or from the recollection of the frequent rebellions in his minority; or, perhaps, that he thinks his houses there too mean. Whatever may be his motives for absenting himself, certain it is that he is very seldom to be seen in his capital.

The

The Seine is a broad but shallow river, running quite through the town. It rises from the country above Fontainbleau, comes to Paris, and passes on through Normandy, to Havre de Grace, where it empties itself into the sea. The principal bridge at Paris is called the Pont Neuf, whereon are no houses, but there is a statue of Lewis XIII. on horseback, and a building called La Samaritaine, which is a large fountain of water flowing continually out of a lion's mouth, drawn up from the river by a mill.

We viewed the Louvre, a palace designed by Henry IV. to be one of the first and greatest houses in the world. The front towards the garden, called the Tuilleries, is, as we conjectured, 300 yards in length, of noble architecture, much like to the front of the Banqueting-house at Whitehall, but more grand. The pillars and pilasters are mostly of marble, and the front towards the Seine is longer than the other, but not so fine. This house it seems was to have had two other fronts, and to be square, with courts within, but it was never finished.

Towards the evening we walked into the Tuilleries, being beautiful large gardens belonging to the Louvre, full of statues, fountains, shady and terraced walks, and other ornaments, which make it the most pleasant public place I ever yet saw. Here were abundance of ladies and gentlemen, not less 1 believe than one thousand, walking. No other men than gentlemen are permitted to enter.

1701, Sept. 7. We walked to see the Convent of Nuns, called La Valle de Grace. Here is a very fine Church with a curious roof of large arched work; and all the pavement is of fine marble of various colours. At the top is a large dome, finely painted within, and the greatest part without is gilt. This house was founded by Anne of Austria, Queen of France, and is but lately finished. It is richly endowed, and the Nuns ladies of quality.

Our next visit was to the Convent of Carmelite Nuns of the Incarnation, who are likewise ladies of quality. They have also a very fine Church, gilt all round, with several beautiful chapels. The roof is painted in basso relievo, and their other paintings are very excellent. High up above the left door are places for the Nuns, from where they hear mass, and join

in the vocal part of it. They are concealed from view by a grate and curtains. Madame La Valliere, formerly one of the French King's mistresses, is now the superieure here. The altar, to which you ascend by marble steps, is superbly gilt and adorned.

From thence we went to the Convent of St. Genevieve, the Patroness Saint of Paris. The Church here is magnificent; the altar-piece rich, with many and very large candlesticks of massive silver. The cross is particularly large, of the same metal, though some say it is of gold. Over the altar is a chest of beaten gold, almost covered with diamonds and precious stones, valued at 30 millions of livres, containing the bones of St. Genevieve. All this was affirmed to us, and we were told that in 1694, when there was want of rain all over the kingdom, and much fear of a dearth, this chest was carried in procession through the city to implore the intercession of the Saint for rain, and the same day rain came very plentifully. This was, of course, accounted a miracle. The whole solemnity is described in a very fine and large piece of painting, hung up in this Church. We saw, besides, on this day, a great convent of Capuchin Friars, who have a large garden, well planted, for the use of the house.

It was on this evening, as we were walking home, that we had an account of the death of King James the Second of England, who deceased yesterday, 6th September according to our style, at St. Germain's en Laye, at half-past two in the afternoon; and that his son had been proclaimed as his successor by the name and style of James III. King of England, Scotland, and Ireland. France was left out of his title.

Sept 8. We went to the Place de Vendosme. This is to be a large magnificent square, with lofty houses of free-stone. We viewed the fine houses now building therein by the Parisians, as a gift to the King, and which it is said he designs for the Duke of Vendosme. In the midst of the square is a fine equestrian statue of the King, made of brass.

We now proceeded to the Place des Victoires, an open round of buildings, also of free-stone, with piazzas, somewhat resembling our Covent Garden, but not so large, though lofty. These were erected in the year 1678, in commemoration of the King's great vic

tories.

tories. In the midst is a magnificent and costly statue of the King, made of copper, and the Goddess of Victory, of the same metal, crowning him with laurel, all curiously wrought and finely gilt. The pedestal is large and square, and he stands trampling his enemies under his feet, in a manner which I think too insulting. At each corner of the pedestal is a figure lying in a submissive posture, with its hands chained together, and its ensigns and arms thrown down and broken. One represents the Emperor of Germany, another the King of Spain, another the States General of the United Provinces (the Netherlands), and the other the Duke of Savoy. On every side are long inscriptions, allusive to the King's great acts, some in Latin verse extolling him beyond Cæsar and Alexander; and others in French prose, setting forth the numbers of his armies and his great deeds, with lofty and strange titles, and a dedication, Viro immortali, &c. The whole of this monument was erected by the Duke de la Feuillade.

Our next walk was to the Gobelin manufactory, situate at another part of the town. It is carried on in a large stone building by Germans and Flemings, to the number of one hundréd, maintained at the King's charge. These are the authors of those fine works of tapestry, called by the above name, in silk, gold, and silver, for the furniture of the King's houses. The figures and subjects which are to be represented, are painted and laid before the workmen; and to such great perfection is their art arrived, that we saw several pieces of their performance little short, as we thought, of the paintings themselves. In this place too, there are many persons employed in sculpture, and in making figures in brass and other metals, and in stone and mosaic work. We saw a brazen head of the King, very large and fine, and a round table, then in hand and almost perfect, curiously inlaid with marble of several figures and coloured, valued at 400 pistoles. In the same room was an abundance of fine stones of Agate, &c. in one of which was the plain resemblance of a tall large tree, full of branches; and, in another, of a city full of houses, both of them, as we were assured, natural productions.

Our succeeding object was the Hospital of the Invalides, founded for disabled soldiers, like to our College

at Chelsea. This is a large and lofty building of free stone, situate just without the city. It was first designed for 6000 men; but now, they say, is capable of holding 10,000. The apartments are very convenient, and seem larger than those at Chelsea, but the Governor's house, and the gardens are far short of those with us.. The Chapel is not quite finished, though the greatest part of the College has been erected these 30 years. The great altar and dome of the Chapel will be stately and grand.

Sept. 8. It had been our custom to go to an English Coffee-house, kept by one Benson, near Cardinal Furstenburgh's Palace. We went there this day, being Sunday, and here we were accosted by a Frenchman, who undertook to shew us great things. We put ourselves under his guidance, and after leading us up and down through 20 dirty streets, he brought us to a great Hospital of sick women, where we were nearly poisoned with stench; and we were informed, that as these begin to recover, they are removed to a better place, and from thence to a third, until their health is re-established; but, being disgusted with our guide, we shook him off, and were afterwards told it was well we had not been trepanned by him, and had not had our throats cut-and possibly this might have been the case if we had gone wherever he would have led us. It seems there are many such fellows about this town, who set upon people by night; and we were told there were 50,000 rogues who infest it, though there are watchmen as in London, but not so many; and there are lights too in lanterns on lines, which go across the streets, and the lanterns are hung in the centre.

In the afternoon we went to the Church of the Nuns of the Assumption. This is entirely circular-a form I had never seen before. At the top is a stately dome, gilt without, and painted within. There we heard mass sung in excellent Church musick, and we were told before that it would be the best in Paris. The trebles and basses were exquisitely fine. Here we hired chairs at five liards a piece, for there are no other seats. The performance lasted an hour and a half. At night we went to the play-house to see the tragic opera of Scylla. Operas, it, seems, are only acted on Sundays. This was played with good musick

and

and fine scenes, but I did not much like the accommodation. We went into the pit, the cheapest place, and stood all the while on a brick floor, for it had no seats. The galleries were narrow, and divided into small compartments. At another time, not being Sunday, we went to a comedy at a different theatre. We sat in the gallery. The number of actors was not more than six or seven. The piece was a mixture of comedy, farce, and harlequinade, of which the latter bore a large portion; and the whole, in our judgment, was a poor business. (To be continued.)

I

CATHEDRAL SCHOOLS.
ST. DAVID'S.

Mr. URBAN, Crosby-square, Dec. 3. HAVE recently met with very important unpublished documents, relating to the Choristers of this Cathedral Church. MS. Harl. 6280. "To all, &c. Adam [Houghton] *

Bishop of St. David's, greeting. "The duty of our station and the dictates of piety alike require us to promote the solemnity of Divine worship. in our Church of St. David's, by making suitable provision for those who officiate in the Choir, lest the Church should be disgraced in the poverty of her Ministers.

"Now we observe, in bitterness of heart, that the Choristers, few in num ber, and without proper vestments, attend the Choral Service irregularly and lukewarmly, because in times past little or no provision had been made for their temporal wants; namely, for their diet and clothing, without which spiritual things cannot long subsist.

"We, therefore, with our brethren the Canons of the said Church, in Chapter assembled, considering how we could provide a suitable remedy for this deficiency, have at length directed our attention to the Church of Lanwynnen, in our advowson; that the Choristers, who shall be four in number, may, according to their duty, attend at the canonical hours in the said Church and in proper habits, humbly to minister as Choristers, according to the use of Sarumt, under the direction of our

*Bp. of St. David's from 1361 to 1388. + The Ritual or Liturgy of Osmond, Bishop of Sarum, was almost universally adopted by the Cathedrals in the Province of Canterbury.

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Vicar, whom we depute Preceptor and Master of the said Choristers, to elect and perfect them as Choristers; and, as our Commissary, to remove them as occasion may require; and that when by exercise they are advanced in learning, there may be a more plentiful supply of Ministers for a higher degree in the said Church, we have thought meet that the aforesaid Church should be bestowed on the said Choristers, with all its rights and appurtenances (excepting only the portion of the Vicar, who shall be collated by us and our successors); and with the consent of our Chapter, after full consideration and in due form of Law, we do appropriate and confirm the same to the said Choristers to be for ever possessed to their use. And we ordain that the profits and revenues of the said Church be divided by equal portions twice a year among the said Choristers, for their maintenance, who shall, if it be possible, reside within the close of the Church of St. David's, by the order of our said Vicar, who shall dispose of the said Church as may appear to him most advantageous to the use of the said Choristers.

"And we will also that our said Vicar, out of the profits of the said Church, receive half a mark of silver annually for his trouble."

"Dated at St. David's, 24 Mar. 1363."

The Volume from which the above extract is taken seems to be the originai Register and Statute Book of the Cathedral, and is attested June 8, 1588, by the subscriptions of

Thomas Huett, Precentor.
Richardus Edwardes, Cancellarius.
M. Meneven's.

Thomas Lloyd, Thesaurarius. It is much decayed at the commencement, and a few pages at the conclusion are quite illegible. There is a complete transcript in the same Library, (1249) in a more modern hand.

The number of the Choristers was augmented from four to six, April 15, A. D. 1501, by the bounty of Bishop Morgan, who appropriated the tythes of Lawhaden for their better support. See MSS. Harl. 6280, p. 209; 1249, p. 268; where the deed of Adam Houghton is followed nearly verbatim.

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66

This fanciful interpretation appears to have originated with Dryden himself, as I do not find the slightest hint of such meaning in Servius, Probus, or any of the succeeding Commentators, though well enough disposed to strain the text of their Author, for the purpose of extorting a more exquisite," far-fetched, and often unnatural, meaning. But here they could not venture to display their acumen; well knowing that nine calendar months are about equal to ten lunar. Independent of which circumstance, the Roman mode of computing time left no room to conjecture any extraordinary meaning in Virgil's words. While the common usage allowed nine days (for example), or even eight and a half, to be accounted as ten, that was sufficient authority, not only for a Poet, but even for a prose writer, to reckon nine months as ten, without meaning any thing out of the regular course.

To the classical reader this requires no explanation, though to some others it may. I will therefore briefly observe, that the Romans reckoned their days in the same manner as our French neighbours, who account, as GENT. MAG, January, 1819.

one day, any part of a broken day at the commencement of the period in computation, and account, as another day, any portion of a day at the termination of the same period: so that, if a Frenchman go out of town on Saturday evening, and return on the Saturday morning following, he will reckon the term of his absence eight days ("huit jours"), though an Eugsix days and a half, or at most, a bare lishman would account it only about scanty week: and, in like manner, a Frenchman's quinze jours (fifteen days) is only an Englishman's fortnight.

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But, to return to Dryden and Virgil the following quotations will, I presume, be deemed sufficient to show that the Roman Bard meant nothing particular or extraordinary by the expression, "ten months," which, in common parlance, in such cases as that under consideration, appears to have conveyed no other idea to a Roman, than that of "nine months" Conveys to an English reader.

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Bisquino femina mense parit." Ovid, Fast. 3, 124. "Jamque decem menses; et puer ortus erat." Ovid, Fast. 5, 534. "Luna novum decies implêrat cornibus. orbem ;

Quæ fuerat virgo credita, mater erat." Ovid, Fast. 2, 175. "Jam novies erat orta soror pulcherrima Phobi,

Denaque luciferos Luna movebat equos,
&c."
Ovid, Epist. 11, 45.
"Non, non humani sunt partûs talia
dona :

Ista decem menses non peperêre bona."
Propertius, 2, 3, 27.

Yours, &c.

Mr. URBAN,

IN

JOHN CAREY.

Jan. 12.

N speaking in my last letter of the re-issue of the Notes and Counters from the Bank (after their being presented for payment in Gold Bullion on any more than usual demand for that metal) in the purchase of Silver Bullion, I thought it right to suggest the limiting of such re-issue to a Part only of the portion of the currency so returned; because, Gold being necessarily, in a prevalence of the proposed system, the standard of the value of all other goods, it follows from a rise in the value of Gold, that a circulating medium, representative in the aggregate of a less quantity of

Gold,

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