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building is a long fquare of 640 feet by 580. The height of the roof is 60 feet. It has been enriched and adorned by his facceffors; but its outfide has a gloomy appearance, and the infide is compofed of dif ferent ftructures, fome of which are mafter-pieces of architecture, but forming a difagreeable whole. It muft, however, be confeffed, that the pictures and ftatues that have found admiffion here are excellent in their kind, and fome of them not to be equalled even in Italy itself.

Cadiz is the great emporium of Spanish commerce. It ftands on an ifland feparated from the continent of Andalufia, without the ftraits of Gibraltar, by a very narrow arm of the fea, over which a fortified bridge is thrown, and joins it to the main land. The entrance into the bay is about 500 fathoms wide, and guarded by two forts, called the Puntals. The entrance has never been of late years attempted by the English in their wars with Spain, because of the vaft intereft our mer. chants have in the treasures there, which they could not reclaim from the captors. The streets are narrow, ill paved, and filthy, and full of rats in the night; the houfes lofty, with flat roofs, and few are without a turret for a view of the fea. The population is reckoned at 140,000 inhabitants, of which 12,000 are French, and as many Italians. The cathedral has been already 50 years building, and the roof is not half finished. The environs are beautifully rural.

Cordova is now an inconfiderable place; the ftreets are crooked and dirty, and but few of the public or private buildings confpicuous for their architecture. The palaces of the inquifition and of the bishop, are extenfive and well fituated. The cathedral was formerly a mofque, divided into feventeen aifles by rows of columns of various marbles, and is very rich in plate; four of the filver candlesticks coft 8501. a-piece. The revenue of the fee amounts to 3,5001, per annum; but as the bishops cannot devife by will, all they die poffeffed of efcheats to the king.

Seville, the Julia of the Romans, is, next to Madrid, the largest city in Spain, but is greatly decayed both in riches and population. The fhape is circular, and the walls feem of Moorish conftruction; its circumference is five miles and a half. The fuburb of Triana is as large as many towns, and remarkable for its gloomy Gothic caftle, where, in 1481, the inquifition was firft established in Spain. Its manufactures in wool and filk, which formerly amounted to 16,000, are now reduced to 400; and its great office of commerce to Spanish America is removed to Cadiz. The cathedral of Seville is a fine Gothic build. ing, with a curious fleeple or tower, having a moveable figure of a wo man at the top, called La Giralda, which turns round with the wind, and which is referred to in Don Quixote. This fteeple is reckoned one of the greatest curiofities in Spain, and is higher than St. Paul's in London; but the cathedral, in Mr. Swinburne's opinion, is by no means equal to York-minfter for lightness, elegance, or Gothic delicacy. The first clock made in the kingdom was fet up in this cathedral, in the year 1400, in the prefence of king Henry III. The profpect of the coun. try round this city, beheld from the steeple of the cathedral, is extremely delightful.

Barcelona, formerly Barcino, faid to be founded by Hamilcar Barcas, is a large circular trading city, containing 15,000 houfes, fituated on the Mediterranean, facing Minorca, and is faid to be the handfomeft place in Spain; the houfes are lofty and plain, and the ftreets well lighted and paved. The citadel is ftrong, and the place and inhabitants famous for the fiege they fuftained, in 1714, against a formidable

army, when deserted both by England and the emperor, for whom they had taken up arms. The number of inhabitants is fuppofed to be nearly 150,000, and they fupply Spain with moft of the clothing and arms for the troops. A fingular cuftom prevails among them; on the 1t of November, the eve of All Souls, they run about from house to houfe to eat chefnuts, believing that for every chefnut they swallow, with proper faith and unction, they shall deliver a foul out of purgatory.

Valencia is a large and almoft circular city, with lofty walls. The ftreets are crooked and narrow, and not paved; the houses ill built and filthy, and most of the churches tawdry. Priefts, nuns, and friars, of every drefs, fwarm in this city, whofe inhabitants are computed at S0,000. Its archbishoprick is one of the beft in Spain, to the amount of 40,0001. fterling a year.

Carthagena is a large city, but has very few good ftreets, and fewer remarkable buildings. The port is very complete, formed by nature in the figure of a heart, and the arfenal is a fpacious fquare, fouthweft of the town, with 40 pieces of cannon to defend it towards the fea. When Mr. Swinburne vifited it, in 1775, there were 800 Spanish criminals, and 600 Barbary flaves, working at the pumps, to keep the docks dry, &c. and treated with great inhumanity. The crimes for which the Spaniards were fent there deferved indeed exemplary pu

nishment.

Grenada ftands on two hills, and the ancient palace of the Alhambra crowns the double fummit between two rivers, the Douro, and the Xenil. The former glories of this city are paffed away with its old inhabitants; the ftreets are now filthy, the aqueducts crumbled to duft, and its trade loft. Of 50,000 inhabitants, only 18,000 are reckoned useful; the furplus is made up of clergy, lawyers, children, and beggars. The amphitheatre for bull-feafts is built of stone, and one of the best in Spain. The environs of the city are ftill pleafing and healthful.

Bilboa is fituated on the banks of the river Ybaizabal, and is about two leagues from the fea. It contains about eight hundred houses, with a large fquare by the water fide, well fhaded with pleasant walks, which extend to the outlets on the banks of the river, where there are great numbers of houfes and gardens, which form a moft pleafing profpect, particularly in failing up the river; for, befides the beautiful verdure, numerous objects open gradually to the eye, and the town appears as an amphitheatre, which enlivens the landfcape, and completes the scenery. The houfes are folid and lofty, the ftreets well paved and level, and the water is fo conveyed into the streets, that they may be washed at pleasure; which renders Bilboa one of the neatest towns in Europe.

Malaga is an ancient city, and not lefs remarkable for its opulence and extenfive commerce than for the luxuriance of its foil, yielding in great abundance the moft delicious fruits; whilft its rugged mountains afford thofe lufcious grapes which give fuch reputation to the Malaga wine, known in England by the name of Mountain. The city is large and populous, and of a circular form, furrounded with a double wall, trengthened by stately towers, and has nine gates. A Moorish castle on the point of a rock commands every part of it. The streets are narrow, and the most remarkable building in it is a ftupendous cathedral, begun by Philip II. faid to be as large as that of St. Paul's in London.

The city of Salamanca is of a circular form, built on three hills and two valleys, and on every fide furrounded with profpects of fine houses, noble feats, gardens, orchards, fields, and diftant villages; and is ancient, large, rich, and populous. There are ten gates to this city, and it con. tains twenty-five churches, twenty-five convents of friars, and the fame number of nunneries. The most beautiful part of this city is the great fquare built about forty years ago. The houfes are of three ftories, and allof equal height and exact fymmetry, with iron balconies, and a stone baluftrade on the top of them: the lower part is arched, which forms a piazza all round the fquare, which extends two hundred and ninetythree feet on each fide. Over fome of the arches are medallions, with bufts of the king of Spain, and of feveral eminent men, in ftone bafforelievo, among which are thofe of Ferdinando Cortez, Francis Pizarro, Davilla, and Cid Ruy. In this fquare the bull-fights are exhibited, for three days only, in the month of June. The river Tormes runs by this city, and has a bridge over it of twenty-five arches, built by the Romans, and yet entire.

Toledo is one of the most ancient cities in Spain, and during feveral centuries it held the rank of its metropolis. But the neigbourhood of Madrid has by degrees ftripped it of its numerous inhabitants, and it would have been almost entirely deferted but for its cathedral, the income of which being in great part spent here, contributes chiefly to the maintenance of the few thousands that are left, and affifts, in fome degree, thofe fmall manufactures of fword-blades and filk-ftuffs that are eftablished in this city. It is now exceedingly ill built, poor, and mean.

Burgos was the ancient capital of the kingdom of Caftile, but now in obfcurity. The cathedral is one of the moft magnificent ftructures, of the Gothic kind, now in Europe. Its form is exactly the fame as that of York-minfter, and on the east end is an octagon building, exactly like the chapter-house at York.

Gibraltar, once a celebrated town and fortrefs of Andalufia, is at prefent in poffeffion of Great Britain. Till the arrival of the Saracens in Spain, which took place in the year 711, or 712, the rock of Gibraltar went by the name of Mons Calpe. On their arrival, a fortress was built upon it, and it obtained the name of Gibel Tarif, or Mount Tarif, from the name of their general, and thence Gibraltar. It was in the poffeffion of the Spaniards and Moors by turns, till it was taken from the former by a combined fleet of English and Dutch fhips, under the command of Sir George Rooke, in 1704; and this rather through accident than any thing elfe. The Prince of Heffe, with 1800 men landed on the isthmus; but an attack on that fide was found to be impracticable, on account of the fteepness of the rock. The fleet fired 15,000 fhot, without making any impreffion on the works; fo that the fortrefs feems to be equally impregnable both to the British and Spaniards, except by famine. At laft, a party of failors, having got merry with grog, rowed clofe under the New mole in their boats; and as they faw that the garrifon, which confifted only of 100 men, did not mind them, they were encouraged to attempt a landing; and having mounted the mole, hoifted a red jacket, as a fignal of poffeffion. This being immediately obferved by the fleet, more boats and failors were fent out, who, in like manner, having afcended the works, got poffeffion of a battery, and foon obliged the town to furrender. After many fruitless attempts to recover it, it was confirmed to the English, by the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713. Repeated attempts have been fince made to wreft

it from England, but without fuccefs; the laft war has made it more famous than ever, when it underwent a long fiege against the united forces of Spain and France, by land and fea, and was gallantly defended by general Elliot and his garrifon, to the great lofs and difgrace of the affailants: though it must be granted, the place is by nature almoft impregnable. Near 300 pieces of cannon, of different bores, and chiefly brafs, which were funk before the port in the floating batteries, have been raifed, and fold, to be diftributed among the garrifon. It is a commodious port, and formed naturally for commanding the paffage of the Straits, or, in other words, the entrance into the Mediterranean and Levant feas. But the road is neither fafe againtt an enemy nor ftorms: the bay is about twenty leagues in circumference. The ftraits are 24 miles long, and 15 broad; through which fets a current from the Atlantic Ocean into the Mediterranean; and for the ftemming of it, a brifk gale is required. The town was neither large nor beautiful, and in the laft fiege was totally destroyed by the enemies' bombs, but on account of its fortifications is efteemed the key of Spain, and is always furnished with a garrifon well provided for its defence. The harbour is formed by a mole, which is well fortified and planted with guns. Gibraltar is acceffible on the land fide only by a narrow paffage between the rock and the fea; but that is walled and fortified both by art and nature, and fo inclosed by high fteep hills, as to be almoft inacceffible. It has but two gates on that fide, and as many towards the fea. Acrofs this ifthmus the Spaniards have drawn a fortified line, chiefly with a view to hinder the garrifon of Gibraltar from having any intercourfe with the country behind them; notwithstanding which they carry on a clandeftine trade, particularly in tobacco, of which the Spaniards are exceedingly fond. The garrifon is, however, confined within very narrow limits; and, as the ground produces fcarcely any thing, all their provifions are brought them either from England, or from Ceuta on the oppofite coaft of Barbary. Formerly, Gibraltar was entirely under military government; but that power producing thofe abufes which are naturally attendant on it, the parliament thought proper to erect it into a body corporate, and the civil power is now lodged in its magiftrates.

The chief islands belonging to Spain in Europe are Minorca, Majorca, and Yvica. Minorca, which was taken by the English, in 1708, under general Stanhope, and confirmed to Great Britain by the treaty of Utrecht, 1713, was retaken by the Spaniards in the lalt war, February 15, 1782, and is now become a Spanish ifland again, containing about 27,000 inhabitants.

COMMERCE AND MANUFACTURES.] The Spaniards, unhappily for themfelves, make gold and filver the chief branches both of their exports and imports. They import it from America, and afterwards export it to other countries of Europe. Cadiz is the chief emporium of this commerce." Hither (fays Mr. Anderfon, in his History of Commerce) other European nations fend their merchandife to be shipped off in Spanish bottoms for America, fheltered (or as our old English phrafe has it, coloured) under the names of the Spanish factors. Thofe foreign nations have here their agents and correfpondents; and the confuls of thofe nations make a confiderable figure. Cadiz has been faid to have the fineft ftorehoufes and magazines for commerce of any city in Europe; and to it the flota and galleons regularly import the treafores of Spanish America. The proper Spanish merchandifes expotted from Cadiz to America are of no great value; but the duty on

The city of Salamanca is of a circular form, built on three hills and two valleys, and on every fide furrounded with profpects of fine houses, noble feats, gardens, orchards, fields, and diftant villages; and is ancient, large, rich, and populous. There are ten gates to this city, and it con. tains twenty-five churches, twenty-five convents of friars, and the fame number of nunneries. The most beautiful part of this city is the great fquare built about forty years ago. The houses are of three ftories, and allof equal height and exact fymmetry, with iron balconies, and a stone baluftrade on the top of them: the lower part is arched, which forms a piazza all round the fquare, which extends two hundred and ninetythree feet on each fide. Over fome of the arches are medallions, with bufts of the king of Spain, and of feveral eminent men, in ftone bafforelievo, among which are thofe of Ferdinando Cortez, Francis Pizarro, Davilla, and Cid Ruy. In this fquare the bull-fights are exhibited, for three days only, in the month of June. The river Tormes runs by this city, and has a bridge over it of twenty-five arches, built by the Romans, and yet entire.

Toledo is one of the most ancient cities in Spain, and during feveral centuries it held the rank of its metropolis. But the neigbourhood of Madrid has by degrees ftripped it of its numerous inhabitants, and it would have been almost entirely deferted but for its cathedral, the income of which being in great part fpent here, contributes chiefly to the maintenance of the few thousands that are left, and affifts, in fome degree, thofe fmall manufactures of fword-blades and filk-ftuffs that are eftablished in this city. It is now exceedingly ill built, poor, and mean.

Burgos was the ancient capital of the kingdom of Caftile, but now in obfcurity. The cathedral is one of the moft magnificent ftructures, of the Gothic kind, now in Europe. Its form is exactly the fame as that of York-minfter, and on the east end is an octagon building, exactly like the chapter-houfe at York.

Gibraltar, once a celebrated town and fortrefs of Andalufia, is at prefent in poffeffion of Great Britain. Till the arrival of the Saracens in Spain, which took place in the year 711, or 712, the rock of Gibraltar went by the name of Mons Calpe. On their arrival, a fortress was built upon it, and it obtained the name of Gibel Tarif, or Mount Tarif, from the name of their general, and thence Gibraltar. It was in the poffeffion of the Spaniards and Moors by turns, till it was taken from the former by a combined fleet of English and Dutch fhips, under the command of Sir George Rooke, in 1704; and this rather through accident than any thing elfe. The Prince of Heffe, with 1800 men landed on the isthmus; but an attack on that fide was found to be impracticable, on account of the fteepness of the rock. The fleet fired 15,000 fhot, without making any impreffion on the works; fo that the fortrefs feems to be equally impregnable both to the British and Spaniards, except by famine. At laft, a party of failors, having got merry with grog, rowed clofe under the New mole in their boats; and as they faw that the garrifon, which confifted only of 100 men, did not mind them, they were encouraged to attempt a landing; and having mounted the mole, hoifted a red jacket, as a fignal of poffeffion. This being immediately obferved by the fleet, more boats and failors were fent out, who, in like manner, having afcended the works, got poffeffion of a battery, and foon obliged the town to furrender. After many fruitles attempts to recover it, it was confirmed to the English, by the treaty of Utrecht, in 1713. Repeated attempts have been fince made to wret

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