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REMINISCENCES

OF A THREE YEARS'

RESIDENCE IN PERSIA.

CHAPTER I.

THE "KHELAAT U PUSHAN."

It is generally about the end of May that the ceremony takes place of the prince arraying himself in the royal robe of honour, conferred upon him by his Majesty of Persia; and this, according to court etiquette, must be done publicly. Near all the different cities, buildings are purposely erected for this ceremony, called the "Khelaat u Pushan," or place for putting on the honorary dress with which the prince is invested by his sovereign. The public exhibition of it is intended.

VOL. I.

B

to show that he still basks in the Shah's favour

the countenance of the " King of Kings" continuing to shine upon him.

In a pretty sheltered spot, looking luxuriant amid the barren hills surrounding it, richly watered, and wooded with the poplar, the chinar, and other foliage, in the midst of a small lake, stands a tall, spiral belvidere, in the upper story of which the prince receives his numerous visitors. This is surrounded by about three acres of well shaven lawn, on which thousands of the "Azerbijanees" were squatted about in different groups, quietly awaiting the coming ceremonial. At the further end was pitched the royal tent, richly carpeted, and around it (forming a large enclosure) a treble row of the "Serboz," or infantry, was formed, which, with their huge white trousers, boots, and black caps, made not a bad line of about a thousand men.

The city of Tabreez poured its contents into this delightful valley; the day was propitious, the occasion inviting; so "mounting the stirrup of activity to get into the saddle of accomplishment,” I soon arrived with my little party amidst the large assembly whom curiosity or custom had already convened.

Numerous "gholaums" were galloping about, giving directions, and arranging the coming ceremony, and a happy festivity seemed to pervade all classes, as I mixed amongst them, to see as much as I could of their character. There is a decent sobriety in Persian mobility that I have scarcely seen in any other; none of your noisy ebullitions of a village wake, as in my own country; none of the antic tricks of the mountebank, nor the low gambling of the thimble-rig; but the sober gravity of smoking, undisturbed by those spirituous potations which give so much animal recklessness to an English mob.

The troops were put through their evolutions, which I thought would not have disgraced a Hyde Park review; it was, in fact, English discipline engrafted on Persian subjects, through the indefatigable industry of their generalissimo, the late Major Hart.

In another tent, surrounded by numerous servants, was a group of very interesting looking "shah zadehs," or princes of different ages, from eighteen down to four years. There were about twenty of them altogether, richly dressed, and the sons of Abbas Meerza,-being but a small portion

however of his family. I could not but look upon them with a great deal of interest, when I reflected how precarious is the state of royalty in Persia; as on every accession to the throne, barbarous custom, or still more barbarous necessity, requires so many victims of the royal blood to be offered up, to quiet the fears or to establish the security of the newly raised sovereign; or, at any rate, that the eyes of the ill-fated striplings must be sacrificed.*

Whilst looking on at this interesting scene with my friend the "hakeem bashi," the penetrating eyes of the prince soon discovered him, and the "Isheagusi," or master of the ceremonies, was immediately sent down to summon him to the royal presence; and as he was marched up through the broad-staring ranks of the surrounding visitors,

An English nobleman relates a curious illustration of this fact. On visiting one of the princes, then a young lad, he found him with his eyes shut, and feeling about with both his hands, like a blind person, for his kalleoon, which his servant was presenting to him. After a moment the gentleman asked, "What are you doing, prince? Is there any thing the matter with your eyes?" "Oh, no," said the boy, "nothing; but I am practising blindness. You know that when my father dies we shall all be put to death, or have our eyes put out, so I am trying how I shall be able to manage without them."

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