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mitted to survey the surrounding country. The baths were fine, the stabling good, and the Harem Kaneh so extensive, that I lost myself in its intricacies. This was once a favourite resort of the late Shah, and its proximity to Tehran (only eight hours) made it more attractive; but latterly the royal caprice had veered to some other point.

Whether from extreme fatigue, exhaustion from thirst, or debility from hunger, I thought that I had never found a respite from these three angry feelings so agreeable as at Sulimania. My bottle had been spent in the desert, (it is customary to carry one of wood,) and I had been sensibly touched with the feelings of Hagar, though not with her despair. Here the ripe fruit dropped, as it were, into my mouth, as I walked under the trellised vinery; and the sudden transition from want to abundance, from weariness to ease, seemed to me somewhat of the magic of Aladdin. All enjoyments are comparative; to be keenly relished they must be earned. The slothful voluptuary, "who knows no fatigue but that of idleness," is a stranger to that stimulating pleasure which the sweat of the brow or the labour of the muscles gives to the peasant or the mechanic.

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CHAPTER IX.

TOORKOMANCHA I.

I WAS much interested by my short stay at this village. It was here that the treaty of peace was signed between Persia and Russia, in 1828. My companion was present at the time, in the suite of the late British envoy, who was the principal means of bringing it about, as deputed by Abbas Meerza. Our Ketkodeh was very loquacious and entertaining on the subject, whose house the Russians had occupied some ten or twelve days. My companion took the Colonel's place, and I took the nummed of the General-inchief, Paskevitch (Count d'Erivansky).

It was with considerable difficulty that the

affairs were adjusted, which were to restore perfect amity and everlasting friendship, to be broken only at the first convenience, between the "Padi Shah of all the Russias," and the "Cousin of the Sun and Moon." More than once did the General rise from his seat, and declare that he would go on to Tehran, to which there could have been no opposition offered; but by the Colonel's "head of prudence he was guided to the line of moderation;" and after long and tedious negociations, precisely at twelve o'clock at night did the cannon "bruit it to the heavens" that peace was reestablished between the two ever-enduring empires of Persia and Russia.

Then came the rejoicings, the embracings, powder and shot exchanged for pilau and champagne ; and the sturdy combatants, ready before to draw the sword of contention, were now seen together smoking the pipe of friendship.

Our venerable host, or "rysh soofeid," with his long white beard, was fast declining into his native dust; asthma had seized him, and his bellows were leaking at every pore. The very temperate habits of the Persian peasantry, to whom alcohol is unknown, leads them on through

a long vale of time. There is scarcely one in a hundred amongst them who knows his own age; for there are no registries of births, either public or private. I have often asked them the question, and they will range sometimes from seventy to a hundred years.

Our host seemed to feel the pride of having assisted at these negociations. "Mashallah," said he, with all the importance of having witnessed it. He was full of anecdotes respecting the Russians, and spoke as loudly as he could of their liberality, which I will do them the justice to say I find to be their invariable character wherever I go, with friend or foe, in all countries. They are not only just in their monetary transactions, but highly liberal. I have heard this both on the continent and in the east.

Passing the day in our village, at lazy length, with the inexhaustible "tchibook;" quarrelling with the dogs, or visiting the natives; it is sometimes rather difficult to "feather the wings of time." What a plague are these said dogs to Persian travel; their number, their unappeasable ferocity, their canine jealousy at the sight of a Ferengee stranger! On moving off one's carpet,

the first question always is, "Where are the dogs?" then, whip in hand, you must battle through them every inch of ground. In the large towns they herd together in parties, on the walls, at the gates, and other prominent stations, perhaps forty or fifty in a herd, headed by a small cur; when he begins, the herd take the signal to pursue any stranger, man or dog-for they never allow the intrusion of a member of any other herd. They are useful as scavengers, but a great annoyance to travellers. The Mahomedans have a prejudice in their favour; I don't know what; but you dare not kill a dog. If there be any complaint, it must be made to the "beglerbeg," or mayor of the town, and he receives it with as much formality as if it were against any other inhabitant.

Emerging from our village at break of day, on the high road to Tehran, I found it more interesting than some other branches, and dissimilar from that monotony so generally pervading Persian travel. The passes were rugged, the rivers deep; the latter offer some dangers where bridges are so scarce and so imperfect. Plunging into one of them rather hastily, my horse lost his footing, and was fast carried off by the stream, and being driven

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