but these were in the "andaroon.” The former was included in the presents of the late Emperor of Russia! The idea of "his most despotic majesty" reposing on crystal !—Beds of roses (literally so) are not uncommon in Persia, but to me they would prove beds of thorns; for I have found the odour so powerful, as to conduce to any thing but

repose.

Taking leave of the Khan with all the "zhamets" that I was master of, (that is, apologising for the great trouble which I had given him), I had to wend my way through the bazaars, to the great “maidan,” or square, into which some of the palace windows open. In one corner of it was a tower of observation, from which his Majesty is supposed to witness the different executions. In this square was a tolerable show of artillery, the "topanches," or gunners, being about, and the "tuffenkchees,' or infantry, guarding the different gates and avenues. The whole of these buildings are within the "ark," or citadel, which is very extensive, surrounded by mud walls and a dry ditch, having sundry drawbridges, &c. I am quite unable to speak of its extent, though I lodged within it at first visit to Tehran, but was always lost in

my

its intricacies. The various avenues in it, and approaches to it, are tortuous; one may spend days there, and never find one's way about. Every thing reminds you of contrivances against surprise, as though treachery were stalking about, and all means taken to prevent it. The entrances have all three or four door ways, always puzzling one which to take.

The bazaars were of the most tumble-down description, and very inferior to those at Tabreez; and what makes them so crowded and disagreeable is, that they become the thoroughfare from one part of the city to another. Any description of their motley occupants I will not attempt. To go through them on horseback, it is necessary to have the "faroshes" to clear the way-to put aside a string of mules, donkeys laden with brushwood, the chaunting dervish, or the importunate fakeer; the way being so narrow that it becomes densely choked, and the loud "kebardar" "take care," being shouted in all directions. It is quite an indescribable scene.

The "hummums," or baths, are numerous and good; these are the constant resort of the Persians. The Asiatics are very clean in this respect; and

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not to go to the bath once a week, would be deemed almost a dereliction of duty. Here the toe and finger nails of the fair "shireen" are stained with the "hennah," or red dye, of which they are very proud. The Khan has his beard stained with rang," or the black dye, which is beautiful in lustre, and will last some weeks. The luxury of the bath is very great in these warm climates, and the shampooing operation grateful when over, though I was very restive under it, and made the vault resound at my ticklings.

There are no remarkable buildings in this city of Tehran to claim attention. Some of the domes of the mosques are imposing from their size and bulb shape; but neither in the bazaars nor in the mosques, is there any thing to be compared with such buildings at Constantinople. These mud regions present a mass of low, flat-roofed dwellings, of one uniform hue and height. All the luxuries are within the spacious courts, the running streams, the blooming flowers, and bubbling fountains, of which the Persians are very ingenious in the display. The best house which I saw at Tehran was the British residence, standing in a large garden, rettily laid out, and abounding with fruits and

flowers; there were also extensive gardens behind, in which I took my daily walk. Our envoy had much improved his house by a good front of pillars and pediments, giving it quite a West-end appearance. He quite surprised the Tehranis, who, comparing it with their own mud hovels, would exclaim-" Barikallah"-" Mashallah!"— "Excellent-well done!"

That deeply-rooted and inveterate custom in my native country, of four-post bedsteads, down pillows and well-stuffed mattresses, is unknown in Persia. I query if there be in Tehran more than one machine of this sort-that belonging to the British Elchee. On the same spot of ground, the Persian squats, prays, and sleeps; the nummed of the day is removed for the nummed of the night, which is very simple, being somewhat thicker: this, with a pillow and coverlet, form their place of repose.

On my arrival in this city, "Where am I to sleep?" was my first demand, having been awoke out of my nap as I lay outside the gate, at the threshold, being fatigued with my night's travel, and arriving before the said gates were opened. But the lodging-places I found to be of the most

miscellaneous description.

"Throw yourself on

the ground wherever you please," was the order of the day, and in conformity with the general custom, I found the roof of the house to be the most agreeable berth; the roofs, as I have observed, being flat, and generally on the same level. It is here that the evening society of Tehran congregate, and it is amusing to witness what may be seen at a great distance the various groups, sometimes of whole families, making their night arrangements— spreading carpets, planting bolsters, and laying themselves in all directions to cultivate sleep.

Nor should I forget their "numaz," or evening prayers: the prostrations, genuflexions, and salutations of so many people, whilst the "muzzins" are inviting them from the tops of the mosques, add much to the grotesqueness of the scene.

When it was over, I perambulated my boundaries, and took a peep at my neighbours, who were merely divided off by a low balustrade-in this way only intrusions being guarded against. I, quite unintending to do so, was going rather beyond my boundaries, when up sprang a batch of females," Ferengee ame dast"-" the Ferengee is coming;" they waited for no apologies on my