found; and as the night approached, the family increased. But the sleeping arrangements were soon made; the dirty bolsters and carpets were brought in and stretched promiscuously on the ground, the fire-spot being the most attractive. Here lay master, mistress, and sundry family sprouts, male and female, all of a heap, as accident or cold seemed to draw them together, rather miscellaneously arranged.

Ferrajulah and I kept our distance, for I had found out rather the aristocratic part of the cabin, and he lay at my feet. Koordish somnolency appeared to me to differ very little from that of Frangistan. The old man began the concert, the others followed, about eight in number. This effectually prevented my taking part in it.

About midnight a young woman came in, accompanied by a large dog, and stalked cautiously around to discover seemingly a bare spot to rest upon. I watched their movements by the light of the embers, which threw occasional flaming tints over the scene; but as she approached the aristocratic part of the cabin, I set up such a noise (as if in troubled sleep) that she soon decamped; and being desirous to do the same, I shook myself

VOL. I.

M

at an early hour from my nummed (the Koordish mode of cleansing), and most gladly escaped from my resting-place.

Being detained at Khoie a whole day to obtain horses, I rambled through the bazaars, and saw a good deal of this large city, the gates of which are respectable; but the bridges over the dry ditch are of so tumble-down a description as to be highly dangerous; they are built on slight poles, so as to yield in the middle some six or eight inches of level, and miserably propped with poles from below. There is design in this I imagine. Fancy a contumacious governor within; he cuts down the bridges in five minutes, and defies the outside authority. In Persia every thing indicates stratagem; half the world live by it; no wonder that the art so thrives on the soil, or at the ready wits of the Persians.

The plain of Khoie is most extensive, and richly dotted with villages; but we must not tarry amongst them, being now within two days of Tabreez. There was no time for musings. Ferrajulah became more impatient; the "bakshish," or present, was to depend on his promptitude; and although the ground was occasionally much flooded, where bridges are

unknown or so imperfect as to render them dangerous, we had many a fording difficulty, but they were all surmounted by his activity.

When the old ark or arsenal of Tabreez appeared in view, which may be seen at a great distance, the Tatar raised himself in the stirrups, quite inspired as it were with the prospect. "Tabreez! Tabreez!" Crack goes the whip, the jaded horses take fresh courage, and we very soon attained the goal of our wishes.

I was uncommonly pleased with my recognitions of even the mud walls, and making rapid way over

the rotten bridge, was much gratified to hear shouted out, "Sahib ame dast," "the Sahib is come," from an old acquaintance who was making his way to me. As I galloped up to the Khan's, my old abode, and from thence to the doctor's, I was received on all sides with the kindest greetings;-"Koosh amadeed," "Koosh guelden," and so on. Really I began to think that this world is not such a barren spot for human affections as some represent it to be, and I felt a sort of fraternizing amongst my Persian friends, a sort of home-ties; and the domestics coming in, salaaming, kissing my hand, with "Your place has long been empty,"

May your shadow increase," &c. It was altogether a most agreeable termination to my journey. Then the sort of triumph with which Ferrajulah led me in, having performed his bargain, and looking for his "bakshish."

I speedily delivered myself, through my interpreter, of the numerous enquiries which I had bottled up on the way-why he stopped at one place, and went on from another; all of which he satisfactorily answered; and I made him happy beyond his expectations.

To give a fillip to nature and a buoyancy to the faculties, I should say there is nothing like a Tatar gallop.

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CHAPTER XVIII.

THE "TAKHT KAJAR.'

THIS palace, which is considered to be one of the Persian "lions," is situated about one fursek, or four miles, from Tehran, under the refreshing mountains of Shemroun, within a large garden enclosed by the usual mud walls. The garden, though formal, is umbrageous and fruitful, and plentifully watered-the great source of all Persian luxuries. The sandy soil which one is obliged to pass from the city, is desperately fatiguing, in a climate at 97 Fahrenheit, in the shade; but the moment you cross the little brook, from whence spring