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CHAPTER XIX.

TABREEZ.

IN describing any one Persian city, the description will apply generally to others, allowing for differences of the scite and dimensions. The mode of building, or rather of burrowing under the ground, is general in Persia. The soil which they excavate is moulded into walls-mud upon mudwith flat roofs, the whole baked into a uniform substance, so strong as to resist cannon balls.

No

I had had a long midnight march from Marand, with one attendant only, Bucktrari Ali, who was to conduct me for the first time into Persia. means of communication existed between us beyond that of signs. Wearied and sleepy, I was nearly

dropping from my horse, when Ali sung out "Tabreez." In vain did I look out for any thing resembling the busy haunts of men. A large brick elevation, called the "ark," or arsenal, was the most prominent object in view. This was surrounded by small mounds of mud, as they appeared to me, about ten or twelve feet above the surface.

On entering the gate, which was ornamented with coloured tiles, I found myself in a narrow drain-way, as it appeared to me, a line of irregular walls on each side, with occasional small doors, leading to what I imagined to be dog kennels, or some such respectable abodes. A khanaut, or stream of water, was partially opened, partially covered; herds of dogs were on the walls, disputing almost our passage, and remains of others lying in the way, the putrescence of which was emitting a most offensive smell. Droves of donkeys laden with brush wood were disputing the narrow way, driving me up against the walls, and the ups and downs of the rubbish, which had been allowed to accumulate into hillocks, required no little care to surmount them. Of human dwellings, or what appeared to be such, I saw none, not a window, nor a sign of habitancy beyond the straggling passers-by, some

in sheep-skin coats, badly slippered, but well armed, through which I had to make my way.

I now became incredulous as to the faithfulness of my guide; which Ali seeming to perceive, still cried out "Tabreez ;" and so it proved indeed to be. I soon found my friends, enjoying the sight of a tank of water leading to their dwellings. Descending some eight or ten feet into an enclosed court, the said dwelling was very respectable for an Asiatic soil, having only the ground floor, the roof being on a level with the street.

I was still for a long time incredulous as to my being actually in the once renowned city of Tauris, of which Chardin gives so glowing a description; I still thought I had been cheated into a suburb, to give me the more agreeable surprise at seeing the original city. But so it really was; and my oriental dream about "the land of the sun, the garden of the East, the air scented like musk," was at once dissipated, especially as regarded the latter point, for my olfactory nerves were greeted by nothing but the odour of decaying dead dogs!

Subsequent experience and residence gave me more intimate acquaintance with this oriental city, the boundaries of which I grew well acquainted

with, from my almost daily walk around the scolloped mud walls, which are nearly three miles in circumference, and have seven gates. These walls are double, having a wide dry ditch between, and the inner ones are flanked by towers, at irregular distances, on which sentinels are planted, and also at the different gates. The keys are nightly sent to the governor or beglerbeg of the city, and without his special permission they cannot be opened until the accustomed morning hour; it is very difficult to obtain ingress or egress out of the appointed time, as I more than once experienced.

The bridges over the dry ditches of which I have spoken, are built of and upon long poles, slanting in the middle, sometimes with large holes here and there, where the leg of a horse or a mule has damaged the building, threatening to do the like by the leg of the horse or mule in return. So frail are the bridges, and so positively dangerous, that I scarcely ever passed one without expecting it would break under me. As to the scarp and counter-scarp, the bastions, curtains, and the rest of the fortifications, they appeared to me to be very respectable-sufficiently so, I fancied, to satisfy even my uncle Toby himself.

The ruins of the two mosques, of Mesjid Ali, and the Sultan Kazan, I have already alluded to; they were upset in the great earthquake of 1559. These are the most prominent features in the way of ruins. The great Mans House is distinguished by a respectable looking door-way of brick.

The plain on, or rather in which the city stands is very extensive and barren; the boundaries, southern and northern, being high, rugged looking mountains, inaccessible seemingly to man and beast, and quite denuded of vegetation; and the plains bear but very partial spots here and there of garden ground. As to any thing like "chummum," or meadow, I do not recollect a patch of green herbage.

The "hummums," or baths, are numerous, but not very good. As I lay on my mat the first morning of my sojourning at Tabreez, a most discordant din greeted my ears; amongst other sounds, that of the "hummumchee," proclaiming with the cow's horn that the bath was ready for all comers. This was at the break of day. The muzzins were singing out the Azan, or call to prayers; there were the "katergis," or muleteers, braying after a stray donkey, whilst forming their