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PRINTED PS W. WILOCKSON, ROLLS BCILDINGS, SKTTER LANE.

PREFACE.

In these literary days, when there are nearly as many writers as readers, some apology might be deemed necessary for appearing in print; but, as Eastern subjects are generally deemed peculiarly interesting, and nothing having yet appeared of the land of “Iran” in the shape of the work now submitted to the reader, the author hopes he may be considered to have had sufficient grounds for venturing on the field of publication.

It is with extreme diffidence he has glanced at the political and commercial relations between Great Britain and Persia, since, in their present anomalous state, they are so difficult to define: he believes, however, the information on the subject he has been enabled to obtain, will make that portion of his volumes worthy of attention.

The travelling incidents in Koordistan are from letters penned at the time to the author's friends in England. This he trusts will not be without its recommendation; it being usually admitted that “one line written on the spot is worth a thousand recollections.”

Although the author makes no pretensions to any thing beyond slight sketches of Persia and its inhabitants, written during his various wanderings over that country, he is by no means indifferent to the public favour : indeed, his seeking it has, in Persian phraseology, caused “ the nightingale of the pen to flutter around the rose-bud of expectation.” He will only add, in words from the same source, “may its bounty increase, and its shadow never be less!”

London, 1st April, 1811.

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The Kboflan Khu- The Kizzil Ozzan- The Kafelah of Pil-
grims—The Moolahs—The Pilgrimage – The Tomb of Imaum
Reza- The Hadjis — Pilgrimage to Mecca— The Syeeds-
Persian Shrines—The Saint's Tomb of Imaum Zadeh- Inter-
ment of the Dead, The Grave-grounds-Sabbath-eve Visits-
The devastating Cholera of 1830—The Numaz Jah- Maho-
medan Tradition, Visiting the Burying-grounds, &c. 23

CHAPTER IV.

THE EVENING SALAAM.

Persian Executions - Barbarous Customs Ceremony of the

Salaam-The Royal Band— The Mujlis, or Assembly-Persian
Mobility-Futtee Ali Shah— The King's Beard — Persian
Etiquette- The King's Gholaums—The Group of Princes -
His Majesty's Return to the Nagaristan Palace– The King a
respectable Poet- Hafiz- Copy of one of his Poems-Fer-
doosee-Saadi- Epitaphs of Hafiz and Saadi — The King at
Dinner-Persian Cookery-Government of the Harem_ His
Majesty's Contempt for other Monarchs-The Chief Execui-
tioner, &c.

36

CHAPTER V.

THE PERSIAN HAKEEMS," ETC.
Tehran Climate-Departure for Sulimania-Kasvine-III in a

Persian Caravansery– Meerza Aboo Thaloub— The Hakeem's
Visit—The Hadji— Cured by the Doctor--His extreme Polite-
ness- Hippocrates in Persia— Veiled Invalids at Tehran-
Persian Surgery-Cures for Blindness and the Ague- The
Hakeem's Visits to the Harem-Bigotted Persian Customs-
The Astrologer's Prescription- Taken for a Hakeem— The
Royal Draught_Morison's Pills, &c. .

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