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CHAPTER IV.

DOMESTIC LIFE IN PERSIA.

THIS is rather a tender subject for the Ferengee stranger. It is most difficult to pry into the penetralia of Persian society, since with all their politeness, they have a secret contempt for kaffirs, or infidels, and many have an aversion from being mixed up with them. with them. As to domesticating oneself with a Persian family, that is quite out of the question. They have a code of religious laws, called the Jumah Abassi, which reckons the touch of infidels to be pollution; and they would not use their drinking vessels, pipes, &c. Of the latter I have seen many exceptions; but I speak generally.

It is true at the present day what Herodotus said of the Persians of old-that "they esteem themselves the most excellent of mankind." Flattery and falsehood are two prominent features of their character;—the former they call "laughing at his beard." The latter, Saadi thus speaks of: "Falsehood, mixed with good intentions, is preferable to truth tending to excite strife." This latter is so proverbial amongst them, that they do not deny it, nor is it at all esteemed a national reproach. I heard a Persian once admit, that from this habitual custom of falsehood, he could not speak the truth if he tried. I have even heard the habit of deceiving considered as a virtue, and most plausibly argued upon as such. "Suppose the Ketkodeh of a village is able to protect the lives or property of the people by falsehood-is he not justified, or even bound, to have recourse to it?" Falsehood may be deemed, therefore, a principal ingredient in their society as a social body; and to avoid the effects of government tyranny and oppression, they have recourse to all sorts of lying and duplicity.

But in the domestic life of Persia this habit has an appalling effect. Servants practise it with

astonishing hardihood, and it leads to those barefaced frauds which are common amongst them. Cheating is so well understood to be a part of the service, or rather the gains by it, that they adopt it without remorse, or having any sense of its being wrong. But this demoralising principle extends into the bosoms of families; and the finer feelings of confidence, love, and respect amongst each other are uprooted by suspicion, jealousy, and mistrust-those venomous enemies to all domestic

peace.

The urbanity of the Persians is generally admitted; it is said of them that they are the politest people in the East. Fond of the marvellous, and of most imaginative minds, they carry their courtesy so far as to coin the most wonderful stories merely for your amusement: they deceive in order to please you. Their vanity, too, has something to do with this, since it proves the versatility of their genius, and their great desire to be thought well of.

The lower orders of Persia are great observers of ceremonies between each other, and use the most courteous phrases. This I have noticed amongst the numerous servants in the "kaveh

khanehs," or waiting rooms; they are as polite as their masters, the Khans, within.

As the Persians generally rise with the sun, their visits are sometimes made as early as six o'clock in the morning. The Khans, and great men, go on horseback, attended by numerous followers-one bearing his pipe, another his slippers, &c. The great man of the house, seated on his nummed, receives his guests, who are placed most scrupulously according to rank, his left hand being the seat of honour. The numerous servants outside are meanwhile preparing kalleons,* tchibooks, coffee, &c., according to the demands for the same.

Sitting back on the legs is the invariable Persian custom. From this position the host gets up, and compliments his guests with "My eyes

Smoking the kalleon is the favourite amusement of the Persians. This is a small glass decanter, partly filled with water, in which a long tube is fixed, terminating at the top with a cup, of enamelled work, to contain the tobacco, another tube being fixed to the decanter, either straight or with a long snake of curious workmanship. By drawing the smoke through the water, the tobacco is rendered mild and agreeable. So inveterate is the national taste for this indulgence, that when Shah Abbas decreed death to all smokers, intending to abolish the custom, the Persians would hide themselves in the dens and caves of the earth, to enjoy in privacy this necessary to their existence.

are enlightened at seeing you-I am your slaveall I have is yours;"-honied words these, but utterly without meaning.

The Persians boast much of their hospitality; they call every stranger their guest; and at his departure or arrival, each person rises on his knees with the "Khoda hafiz shuma," "May God take you into his holy keeping." This has an odd effect. The moment a guest comes in, he drops on his knees, and then go on the "chum y chum," or compliments. At taking leave he receives the "zhamets," the "kali zhamets," &c., already alluded to; then resuming his slippers at the door, he bustles out, the servants after him, mounts his horse, makes many bows, and the "jeloodar," or head groom, conducts him out with all possible 66 pomp and circumstance."

Coffee, tea, and sweetmeats are the general refreshments offered, and scarcely at any time of the day will this be wanting at a visit; sherbet and fruit are offered occasionally. Many of the Khans and government officers are expected to attend the morning salaam, or Shah's levee. The other classes disperse, as business or circumstances may attract them.