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the bazaars and the cafés closed; very few Turks to be seen, and those unarmed, and with a gloomy thoughtful tread, seeming to spurn the very soil which, only twelve months before, they went over almost like monarchs of the human race. The Turks are naturally a fierce-looking, proud, austere people. The Sultan's title, which I translated for you, and every item of which his subjects most cordially believe in, gives some idea of their character. To disarm a Turk is the greatest insult which can be offered him; they pride themselves very much on their girdle and pistols, the atagan, &c., and now I saw them with empty girdles; what a change for the haughty Musselmans!

In the seraskier's palace, within the citadel, the general had established his head-quarters, with all "the pomp and circumstance" of triumph about him; the Russian troops on guard, and in the court a body of them drawn up, and, to say truth, as fine a corps as I have almost ever seen. I believe no foreigner, certainly no Englishman, had ever before seen the haughty Turk's palace at Erzroume guarded by "infidels;" for ever since the days of the Romans, no invasion of this soil by Europeans has taken place.

We were conducted through two or three long antiquated rooms, lined with troops, with officers dressed in costumes of all descriptions-Georgian, Persian, Circassian, &c.; for the Russians have foreigners of almost all nations in their service. We were then conducted to the large saloon, or hall of audience, which was filled with officers, glittering in their stars and orders. The scene looked more like a prince's levee than that of a general-in-chief.

My friend the Khan, who is equally at home wherever he may be, either in a Koordish divan or a European assembly, soon recognised many of the officers who had known him during his Russian travels; and he joined in their talk, and received their greetings, as one of the band of brethren of this world's society. The courteous reception and polite attention of the general could not have been exceeded, had we been his compatriots. He enquired about Maliz-Ghird; acknowledged the Khan's letter; said he had sent troops to escort us; and then ended the conference by requesting us to dine with him at two o'clock.

We did not fail to accept this invitation, and

were most agreeably entertained at the Russian mess. The party was very numerous, and though not accustomed to military society, I derived much amusement from the scene; for my neighbours were full of conversation, and were exceedingly amused at the Khan's description of Osman Agha. The general language of the table, I should tell you, was French.

After dinner, the General again addressed us, enquiring what were our plans and wishes with respect to our journey, and that he would be happy to facilitate it in any way by passports; and adding, that he considered Teflis to be the only safe road open to us. We then acknowledged his many civilities, and respectfully took leave, having previously received his permission to domicile for a time in the town; and accordingly, here we are, once more in our little harem apartment.

To proceed to Constantinople every one deems

On the Khan's return to Tabreez, he succeeded in summoning Osman Agha to the presence of Abbas Meerza; whether he decoyed or frightened him, I never learnt. The Prince, indignant at the insult shown to his Envoy, was pouring out the vial of his wrath, ordering the immediate punishment of the bastinado; when the Khan interceded, and the Agha was pardoned.

impracticable, the dangerous state of the country having cut off all travelling; indeed, we are told that we should risk our lives by attempting it. In the present state of affairs it is impossible to make any definitive arrangements. We are thankful to find ourselves in security again, and shall enjoy that security for a short time during our stay here. Should I find any incidents deserving your attention, I will write to you again. So far as we can anticipate our movements, the Khan talks of returning to Tabreez; whereas I propose to make my way over the Caucasus.

VOL. II.

Yours.

P

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