and accordingly, our guide lifted up his voice and spake. He pointed out the mariner, the sea,--the vessel; and nothing that I can say will afford you an idea of the deep rugged vigour of his voice. When he came to a word with an R in it,--it rattled in his mouth like a loose sail in a stiff wind; and his laborious expulsion of sound resembled the exertions attendant upon working a boat against a heavy sea. He resolutely adhered to his own mode of pronunciation, which made good havoc with many stout words, that had stood the storms of other tongues;--but so like the monotonous tones of the sea was this his delivery of sound, that I could have closed my eyes and fancied myself sitting near the mainmast, with all the world of ropes and booms creaking and rattling around me. The picture is a clever picture, but it has all the hardness and stiffness peculiar to West. The pulpit is not at all suited to the purity of the chapel. The ceiling is extremely rich. At the entrance there is an inner portico supported on beautiful columns of white marble, which caught the heart of Agnes, and was not displeasing to the severer eyes of her aunt and myself.

The Painted Hall faces the chapel, and is to be sure sufficiently splendid: -the ceiling is, as a very clever little account of Greenwich Hospital remarks, well described by Sir Richard Steele.

Mr. Flamstead looks down, with his ingenious discipline, in a way to awe all sublunary objects. The mixture of gods, rivers, virtues, fame, king, queen, and Tycho Brahe, is sufficiently various to hit the taste of the most dainty admirer of variety. I do not, however, see in this description any account of the first pensioner, the original man of blue, the Adam of Greenwich Hospital, whom death turned out of his waterside Paradise :—I see no mention of him, although the little stunted boatswain pointed him out in the ceiling, and dared us to get to any part of the hall without encountering the eyes of this seamen in the shrouds. I think, however, in spite of this, that he was blind. At the end of the hall are the portraits of George I. and his family,

all little well-wigged princes, and formidable princesses, doubtless very staring likenesses. Sir James Thornhill figures away also himself, in a splendid suit, and enclouded in a wig of inestimable curl.

The sides of the hall have representations of fluted columns, which, as the boatswain says, "you would believe were carved ;-they are all as smooth as this wall." Mrs. Morton engraved a smile upon his copper visage, by examining closely, and very generously still professing a disbelief;-he drew his willow wand across it, winked at me, and re-assured her that it was "nothing but painted." Lord Nelson's car stands in one corner, and when it is remembered how great were the remains which it bore, through a grateful weeping people, to its last and eternal cabin, and how glorious was the wood of which it was constructed, it is affecting little to say that it inspires gentle, and proud, and melancholy thoughts.

The kitchen, and the dinner room, with their homely furniture and peasesoup atmosphere, are refreshing to behold, provided you have not allayed the cravings of your appetite; and the cleanliness observable around is the pleasantest provocative of hunger in the world. When we passed through these rooms, the scouring was going on, and there was a thorough sloppiness apparent over every-thing. The bread-room had a delightful wheaten odour, which took my senses mightily. Agnes, as she peeped with her pretty face through the grating at the impris oned loaves, heaved a sigh as though she pitied the confinement of even a half-quartern!-so much like a prison did this huge pantry look, and so ready was her pity for any thing that reminded her of a prison.

We took a survey of the rooms, in which were the little cabins of this happy crew, all as smart and neat as the peaceful hearts and golden leisure of their tenants could make them. Each pensioner appeared to have brought with him the hammock from his favourite vessel; and the clean silence of the long apartments seemed one perpetual sabbath. On entering,-there

sat our good friend Ball, reading near the window, with his comely blue legs crossed placidly over each other, and his bright old eyes twinkling with a roguish joy peculiar to himself. He did not rise up,-neither did he lay aside his volume-Robinson Crusoe, or Philip Quarll it might be,-but he looked archly upon us, and answered our queries with an honest merriment that made me wish myself an old baldheaded sailor of some sixty years of age, sitting in a long room at Greenwich Hospital, and answering three inquisitive visitors without a care as to what queries were put to me. The little cabins, or bed-rooms, are small, and decked after the taste of the proprietors ;-here you shall see a flaming ship,-there a picture of Nelson, done on glass, with desperate blue coats, and alarming yellow breeches, and sold by those foreign pedlars at a price which almost persuades one that they must have stolen the colours, or pilfered the pictures ready framed and glazed.

We were shown into some of the rooms of state, and were hurried from portrait to portrait in cruel haste. In one room we beheld Captain Spearing, the marvellous gentleman that lived seven days in a coal-pit without food, and afterwards married and had nine children, as he by his own ingenious and entertaining narrative avoucheth. The belief among the sailors, however, is, that a Robin Redbreast brought him food, but I do not altogether side with the pensioners in this creed. He looked so well and neat in his light flaxen wig, though upwards of ninety, as I was told, that I had serious thoughts of trying a coal-pit myself, and could well endure the Robin Redbreast's victuals to survive so well and flourish so merrily.

Age, indeed, in this matchless building, is as verdant and pleasant as youth elsewhere. You see white hairs in every direction-but no white faces. The venerable chaplain, whom I saw, had

a cheerful vivacity, and a sprightly vein of conversation, quite captivating and instructive; and I am very sincere in wishing, Russell, that you and I could have a cozey dish of tea with him, and a long chat over the early governors and the golden days of Greenwich Hospital.

I have given you, my good friend, a very imperfect and hasty sketch of this great charity; but I would not tire you with the minute details, which you will read in the agreeable and intelligent little pamphlet, sold at the hospital (a copy of which I now send you.) -We sauntered into the park, and buried ourselves for some hours in the green solitude of that solemn and peaceful retreat. The rich trees, spreading and mingling their ample foliage the soft verdure of the grass-the deep and silent dells-the lofty and green eminences (commanding a view of the mighty city, and its spacious living river,) all well and wondrously contrasted with the scene we had been witnessing, and disposed our hearts to feel brimmed with peace and grateful joy, and gently to marvel" why there was misery in a world so fair!" I shall never forget Mrs. Morton's voice, musical and eloquent in that blessed place, and Agnes letting her sweet nature breathe itself in unrestrained freedom. We returned to town, and recounted to Mr. Morton, late into the night, the wonders we had seen!

Forgive this letter of fearful length; not often will I so err; but the Mortons are described, and you will not have that description to undergo again. Miss Prudence had seen Mr. the tragedian, and was profoundly pensive:-Tom was tired to death, and slept in his chair a sort of dog-sleep, learned, I believe, at the strife he had been witnessing.-Farewell.-Love to all the Powells-not forgetting yourself, my dear Russell. Yours faithfully.

EDWARD HERBERT.

CHAP. XII.

Account of the Sandwich Islands—Woahoo -Customs, &c.

THE

HE Island of Woahoo is by far the most important of the group of the Sandwich Islands, chiefly on account of its excellent harbors and good water. It is in a high state of cultivation; and abounds with cattle, hogs, sheep, goats, horses, &c. as well as vegetables and fruit of every description. The ships in those seas generally touch at Owhyhee, and get permission from Tameameah, before they can go into the harbour of Woahoo. He

sends a confidential man on board to look after the vessel, and keep the natives from stealing; and, previous to entering the harbour of Honorora, they must pay eighty dollars harbour duty, and twelve dollars to John Hairbottle, the pilot. This duty has only lately been laid on, on account of the King's brig Taamano, having to pay for her anchorage at Macao, when sent there with a cargo of sandal wood, in 1816. Tameameah justly observes, that if his ships have to pay on entering a foreign port, it is but reasonable that foreign ships should pay on entering his ports. There are three close harbours on the south side of Woahoo, between Diamond-hill and Barber's Point On rounding Diamond-hill the village of Wyteetee appears through large groves of cocoa-nut and bread-fruit trees; it has a most beautiful appearance, the land all round in the highest state of cultivation, and the hills covered with wood; a beautiful plain extending as far as the eye can reach. A reef of coral runs along the whole course of this shore, within a quarter of a mile of the beach, on which the sea breaks high; inside this reef there is a passage for canoes. Ships frequently anchor in the bay, in from sixteen to twenty

fathoms, over a sand and coral bottom. Several of the King's old vessels are hauled upon shore and sheds built over them. His Majesty formerly resided at this village, but of late years has preferred his native place, Owhyhee. About four miles to the westward of Wyteetee is the village and harbour of Honorora; it is the largest on the island, as the natives collect from all other parts to be near the shipping. The harbour is known by a deep and remarkable valley over the village, through which the N. E. trade wind blows very strong. The island is not more than five leagues across at this part. The best time to get into the harbour is early in the morning, before the wind sets violently in a contrary direction; the chief generally sends a number of large double canoes to tow the ship in, as the entrance of the harbour is not more than a quarter of a mile wide. Small vessels, when about to enter, rum close to the east side of the reef, where hundreds of the natives are collected, and, by throwing a rope to them, the ship is pulled up to the anchorage.-Ships can moor close to the shore, so as to have a stage from thence, and be as safe as if they were in the London Docks. A fine round battery on the S. E. flat, or point, mounting about sixty guns, protects the village and harbour. The fort occupies about eight acres of ground; the facing of the wall is stone, about eighteen feet high, and about the same breadth on the top, gradually sloping to make a base of about thirty feet. It is constructed of hard clay and dry grass and sand well cemented together; on the top of this wall are embrasures built of the same materials, without stone; the guns are mounted all round, and are from four to eighteen pounders, the heaviest guns facing the sea. The magazine is

under ground and well secured; and in the middle of the fort stands a flagstaff, on which the island colours are displayed, consisting of a union jack, with a red and blue stripe for each island. Round the flag-staff are the chiefs' houses, and barracks for the soldiers. The strictest discipline is observed; the guard relieved very regularly in the night, and the word " All is well," sung out in English every ten minutes! The Americans supply them with powder and stores, for which they get sandal wood, rope, hogs, vegetables, &c. The village consists of about 300 houses regularly built, those of the chiefs being larger and fenced in. Each family must have three houses, one to sleep in, one for the men to eat in, and one for the women,-the sexes not being allowed to eat together. Cocoanut, bread fruit, and castor-oil-nut trees, form delicious shades, between the village and a range of mountains which runs along the island in a N. W. and S.E. direction. The ground is laid out in beautiful square patches, where the tarrow grows, round which they plant sugar canes and Indian corn. They have also a number of fine fish ponds, in which they keep mullet and a fish they call avaa. On the N. W. side of the harbour is a fresh-water river, where a ship's long boat can go up about two miles and fill the water-casks in the boat. About three miles to westward of Honorora is a second harbour, easier of access and superior to the other in every respect, except the want of a watering place. There are but few farmers' and fishermen's houses hereabouts, and for this reason, it is not frequented; in fact, few ships know any thing of it. About six miles to the westward of this harbour, is Wy Moma, or Pearl Water. This inlet extends about five leagues up the country in a northerly direction; it is about four miles across in the widest part, and at the entrance about half a mile. There is not more than fifteen feet of water on the bar or reef at high water, and inside from six to eighteen fathoms mud and sand. There is an island about two miles in circumference in the middle of this inlet, belonging to Mr. Maning, a Spaniard, who has been

3B

ATHENEUM VOL. 10.

here for many years. It is covered with goats, rabbits, and hogs, belonging to him. At the head of the inlet is a run of very fine fresh water, and provisions are cheap and plentiful. There are many divers employed here, diving for the pearl oysters, which are found in great plenty. We saved them much trouble and labour by presenting the King with an oyster dredge we had on board, with which Tameameah was highly delighted. The reef, or flat, extends from this inlet to Barber's Point which is about eight miles to the westward, and from thence several miles to sea in a S. W. direction. Round Barber's Point to the north is the bay and village of Y-eni; and a little farther to the N. W. stands the village of Y-rooa; on the west end of the island is the village and bay of Wymea. There are no harbours on the N. E. side of the island, and only two large villages. As I before observed, the women are not allowed to enter the men's eating-houses, or even to appear on the inside of the fence, on pain of death. Neither men nor women are allowed to eat in the sleeping-houses; the women are prohibited from eating pork, cocoa-nuts, bananas, plantains, and many other things, which are used as offerings to the gods, and it is considered a profanation if a woman should touch any thing so offered. They are not even allowed to touch any thing that goes inside of the men's eating house; they have their own vessels to eat and drink out of; and they must have a separate fire, at which to cook their victuals; the men's fire being called yahee taboo, or prohibited fire, from which they cannot even light their pipes, though both young and old are very fond of smoking tobacco. There are several morais, or churches in the village, and at new moon the priests, chiefs and hikanees enter them with offerings of hogs, plantains, and cocoa-nuts, which they set before the wooden images. The place is fenced in, and have pieces of white flags flying on the fences. They remain in the morai three nights and two days at new moon, beginning at sun set and ending at sun rise, feasting on roast hogs, and praying all the time. On the first