horizontally was smelt so strong, as to impede the breathing of some officers who were walking on shore.

On the 5th of March 1820, the thermometer rose to 15° at noon; and, on the 7th, a circumstance occurred which

filled our navigators with joy, as af fording some promise of the approach of Spring. This olive-branch of promise, was no more than the thawing of a small quantity of snow, in a favourable situation, upon the black paint work of the ship's stern which exactly faced the south. But this being the first time that such an event had occurred for more than five months, the circumstance, trifling as it would have appeared in any other climate, proved a matter of no small interest and satisfaction to those who here witnessed it.

On Bhering's rocks and Greenland's naked isles,
"Mongst wastes that slumber in eternal snow,
And waft, across the wave's tumultuous roar,
The wolf's long howl from Oonalaska's shore ;
Fond Hope can here her moonlight vigils keep,
And sing to charm the spirit of the deep:
Angel of life thy glittering wings explore
Earth's loneliest bounds, and Ocean's wildest shore.
CAMPBELL.

The vapour arising from the men's breath and the steam of their victuals during meals, which had been frozen to the ship's sides, and had remained in a solid state, beginning to thaw on the approach of the mild weather, this coating was scraped off, and the quantity removed filled more than one hundred buckets, although it had not accumulated for a longer time than 4 weeks.

A smart shower of rain, a most agreeable novelty to persons so long unaccustomed to view water in a fluid state, fell on the 24th of May; and rain being a powerful agent in dissolving ice, this was hailed by every one as a most propitious event. Notwithstanding this and other favourable prognostics, when the sea was viewed from the N. E. hill in Melville Island, it still presented the same unbroken and continuous surface of solid and impenetrable ice--not less than from six to seven feet in thickness.

So Zembla's rocks, the beauteous work of frost,
Rise white in air, and glitter o'er the coast;

THE ARCTIC CAlendar.

June 8.-Some sandy ground passed over, so full of the burrows of hares, as to resemble a warren. Some moss and a few short tufts of grass seen; the dwarf-willow coming out in flower. Some sorrel began to make its appearance.

June 9.-The plumage of the cockgrouse was still quite white, except near the tip of the tail, where the feathers were of a fine glossy black; but in every hen that was killed a very perceptible alteration was apparent, even from day to day, and their plumage had now nearly assumed that speckled colour, which, from its resemblance to the ground, is admirably adapted to preserve them from being seen at the season of incubation.

June 12.-A ranunculus in foll flower in a sheltered situation. The root and three feet of the trunk of a pine-tree, and part of the skeleton of a musk-ox, frozen into the ground, were seen on a lagoon in the neighbourhood of the sea. The soil here became very rich, and abounded with the finest moss, together with a great deal of grass, saxifrage, and poppy; and there were evident proofs that this place was much resorted to by deer, musk-oxen, and hares.

June 13-A musk-ox was seen feeding on a spot of luxuriant pasture ground, and, when fired at, set off at a quick pace over the hills. The skin of one which was subsequently killed has

been stuffed, and deposited in the British Museum. This extraordinary animal somewhat resembles the Bonassus, lately exhibited in London. The muskox furnished 421 pounds of beef, which was served to the crews as usual, in lieu of their salt provisions, and was much relished, notwithstanding its very strong musky flavour. The meat was remarkably fat. The total quantity of game obtained on Melville Island during their stay of nearly twelve months, was as follows; 3 musk-oxen, 24 deer, 68 hares, 53 geese, 59 ducks, and 144 ptarmigans, or grouse; affording 3,766 pounds of meat.

One or two mice were caught, turning brown about the belly and head, and the back of a dark grey colour. In every part of the island these little animals were occasionally seen: one of them being pursued, finding no hole near, and escape impossible, set himself against a stone, as if in defence; and bit the man's finger when he took him. From the observations made on board the ships in Winter Harbour, during Capt. Parry's absence, we select the following facts illustrative of the natural history of the Arctic regions.

June 2.-The first red phalarope (p. platyrinchos) and also the first flock of buntings appeared.

June 3.-A flock of 12 king-ducks, together with a single raven, an arctic gull, and some golden plovers seen.

June 5.-Flocks of ducks and geese seen almost daily, for six weeks from this time.

June 9.-The first seal was seen lying upon the ice, near the mouth of the barbour, and having a hole close to him as usual: like the bear in autumn, no more than one of these animals was ever observed at the same time. About this time, several mosquitoes (culex pipiens) were caught; but, as in Hudson's Bay and other cold countries,they never attempted to bite, or annoy in any way. The buds of the saxifraga oppositifolia, and of the dwarf willow, were observed to be opening out, and

some of the sorrel to be in flower; a plant with a lilac-coloured flower, having a very sweet smell (supposed to be a draba),was also observed to be pushing out its blossoms about this time, but none of these plants were so forward as the saxifrage. Among the sea-birds observed in the Arctic regions the following are enumerated in a poetical address to the feathered tribe, inserted in the North Georgia Gazette: awks, dovekies, looms, mallemukes, tern, kittiwakes, ice-gulls, and the glaucous gull, king of the Hyperborean main, and little inferior in size to an eagle.

We now conclude our extracts from Capt. Parry's interesting book, which we have made with a view rather to stimulate, than gratify curiosity; trusting that many of our readers will recur to the volume itself for additional gratification. As this indefatigable man has before this (Sept. 1821) probably made further discoveries in the Arctic regions, which may add further to the science and the fame of his country, we sincerely offer up our aspirations for the entire success of his adventurous undertaking; at the same time convinced, that, whatever may be the result of Captain Parry's discoveries, there can be but one opinion of his zeal and abilities.

FROM Soof, a village near the ruins of Geraza, the travellers set out on the morning of February 2nd, and, continuing their route in a north-westerly direction, arrived at Aidoone. From Aidoone they passed on to Erbeed, where they saw an octagonal tower, probably of Saracen origin, and a reservoir of water resembling the pools of Solomon near Jerusalem, though not quite so large. They reached, a short time before sun-set, a small hamlet, called Bahraha, where they passed the night. Here they discovered some curious relics of antiquity, and among others a sarcophagus of black porous stone, of a basaltic or volcanic nature.

The village of Bahraha does not contain more than fifty houses, and is governed by a Sheikh, who acknowledges the authority of the Pacha of Damas

cus.

The next day the travellers proceeded on their journey, and passing through several hamlets, arrived about three hours after noon at Oorn Kais, on the site of the ancient Gamala, whose ruins they alighted to examine.

"After devoting (says Buckingham) about an hour to the ruins of Gamala, and traversing them on foot in every direction, we were enabled to perceive that the city formed nearly a square; its greatest length being from east to west, which we found to measure one thousand six hundred and seventy paces, of about two feet each, or just half a mile, and its breadth perhaps onefourth less. The upper part of the city stood on a level spot on the summit of the hill, and appears to have been walled all around the acclivities of that hill, being on all sides exceedingly steep, and having appearances of ruined buildings, even on their steepest parts. The eastern gate of entrance has its portals still remaining, and was near the northern wall. From hence a noble street ran through the whole length of the city, extending the number of paces mentioned, as it was along this that the measurement was taken.

This street was fifteen paces, or about thirty feet in breadth, from pillar to pillar; as it had a colonade of the Ionic and Corinthian orders, at intervals, lining its avenues on each side, as at the ruins at Geraza. The street was paved throughout with fine squared blocks of the black volcanic stone, and this pavement was still so perfect that the ruts of carriage-wheels were to be seen in it of different breadths, and about an inch in depth, as at the ruins of Pompeii in Italy.

"The first edifice which presented itself, on entering at the eastern gate, was a theatre on the left, the scene and front of which was entirely destroyed, but its benches were still remaining, and it faced towards the north. Still farther on were appearances of an Ionic temple, the colonnade of the street being continued; and at about the centre of its length, a range of Corinthian columns on pedestals marked the site of a grand edifice on the left; not a column now remained erect, but the plan could be distinctly traced.

"Before we departed we were taken to see one of the ancient Roman tombs, now used as a carpenter's shop, the occupier being employed in constructing a rude plough, and in fixing the irons to one of those long Syrian goads, which serve to spur the animal with one end and clear the plough of clods with the other. On examining the size and weight of this iron at the foot, Maundrell's conjecture struck me as a very judicious one, that it might have been with such a weapon Shamgar made the prodigious slaughter related of him in the Book of Judges.

"From this tomb we went to a still more perfect one, which was entirely cleared, and now used as a private dwelling. Though the females of the family were within we were allowed to enter, and descended by a flight of three steps, there being either a cistern or a deep sepulchre on the right of this descent. The portals and architrave were here perfectly exposed; the orna

ments of the latter were a wreath and open flowers; the door also was divided by a studded bar and pannelled, and the ring of the knocker remained, though the knocker itself had been broken off. The door, which was of the same size and thickness as those described, traversed easily on its hinges, as we were permitted to open and close it at pleasure. On examining it closely, all that has before been said on the mode of fixing and of fastening it was confirmed, as we could here see every part of the construction more perfectly.

"The tomb was about eight feet in height on the inside, as there was a descent of a steep step from the stone threshold to the floor. Its size was about twelve paces square, but no light was received into it except by the door; we could not see whether there was an inner chamber, as in some of the others. A perfect sarcophagus still remained within, and this was now used by the family as a chest for corn and other provisions, so that this violated sepulchre of the dead had thus become a secure, a cool, and a convenient retreat to the living of a different race."

From Oorn Kais (the ancient Gamala) they bent their steps towards Nazareth: they arrived on the 12th of February, and left it the following day for Tiberias. Passing thro' a number of small villages, without seeing any thing very remarkable, they journeyed along

THE LAKE OF TIBERIAS.

"The present town of Tabareeah (Tiberias) is in the form of an irregular crescent, and is inclosed toward the land by a wall flanked with circular towers. It lies nearly north and south along the western edge of the lake, and has its eastern front opposed to the water, on the bank of which it stands, as some of the houses there are almost washed by the sea. Its southern wall approaches almost to the beach; but the north-western angle of the northern wall, being seated on a rising ground, recedes some little distance from the water, and thus gives an irregular form to the enclosure. The whole does not appear a mile in circuit, and cannot 3E ATHENEUM VOL. 10.

contain more than five hundred separate dwellings, from the manner in which they are placed. There are two gates visible from without, one near the southern, and the other in the western wall, the latter of which is in one of the round towers, and is the only one now open; there are appearances also of the town having been surrounded by a ditch, but this is now filled up with cultivatable soil.

"To the northward of the town is the road we passed over on our journey the day before; to the southward the ruins of the ancient city, and a hot bath, still frequented, as well as the burying-ground of the Mahomedans and Jews; on the east the broad expanse of the lake stretches over to the opposite shore; and on the west it has a small space of plain fit for cultivation, from whence the land rises into the lofty hills which almost overhang the town.

"The interior presents but few objects of interest beside the ordinary habitations, which are small and mean. There is a mosque with a dome and minaret now frequented, and another with an octangular tower in ruins. The former of these is not far from the gate of entrance, the latter is nearer to the beach. There are also two synagogues of the Jews near the centre of the town, both of them inferior to that of Jerusalem, though similar in design, and one Christian place of worship, called the House of Peter,' near the southern quarter, close to the water's edge. The last, which has been thought by some to be the oldest place of Christian worship now extant in Palestine, is a vaulted room, thirty feet by fifteen, and perhaps fifteen in height; it stands nearly east and west, having its door of entrance at the western front, and its altar immediately opposite in a small recess. Over the door is one small window, and on each side four others, all arched and open. The masonry of the edifice is of an ordinary kind; the pavement within is similar to that used for streets in this country, and the whole is devoid of sculpture or any other ornament that I could perceive. In a court without the House of Peter,' I

observed, however, a block of stone, on which were the figures of two goats and two lions or tigers coarsely executed, but whether this ever belonged to the building itself, no one could inform me. During my visit to this church, morning mass was performed by the Abeena, at whose house we had lodged; the congregation consisted of only eleven persons, and the furniture and decorations of the altar and the dress of the priest were exceedingly scanty and < poor.

"The edifice is thought by the people here to have been the very house that Peter inhabited, at the time of his being called from the boat to follow Christ. It was, however, evidently constructed for a place of worship, at a period much posterior to the time of the apostle whose name it bears, though it might have been erected on the spot which tradition had marked as the site of his more humble habitation. From hence they say too it was that the boat pushed into the lake when the miraculous draught of fishes was drawn.

"The ordinary dwellings of the inhabitants are such as are commonly seen in eastern villages, but are marked by a peculiarity which I witnessed here for the first time; on the terrace of almost every house, stands a small square inclosure of reeds, loosely covered with leaves. These I learned were resorted to by the heads of families to sleep in during the summer months, when the heat of the nights is intolerable from the low situation of the town, and the unfrequency of cooling breezes. At the present moment, indeed, we had the thermometer at 82° in the shade an hour after sun-rise and calm, while on the hills it was considerably

less than at noon in the sun.

"The whole population of Tiberias does not exceed two thousand souls, according to the opinion of the best-informed residents. Of these about the half are Jews, many of them are from Europe, particularly from Germany, Poland, and Russia, and the rest are Mahommedans, exclusive of about twenty Christian families of the Catholic

communion."

After remaining the night in a convent at Nazareth, the travellers directed

their journey to the northward, and passed through the villages of Mezra, Tooli, Affouli, Noori, Taraheen, along the plain of Esdraelon, and arrived at Jeneen. The place is governed by a Sheikh, who is tributary both to Acre and Damascus. On the arrival at Sanhoor they were introdued to Hadjee Ahmed Gerar, the chief of the place. We give the account of the interview in Buckingham's own words :—

"On being conducted to the chief, we found him sitting on a stone bench in the court of his house, and surrounded by a circle of dependants, who seemed to think themselves honoured by being admitted, like Mordecai of old, to sit at the king's gate. All arose at our entrance; a carpet and cushions were placed for me on the right hand of the master; our horses were fed, a supper provided, and every mark of hospitality shown to us.

"In the ardour of conversation with this seemingly-estimable man, I had quite forgotten to deliver my letter to him until we had finished supper. As soon as he received it, a young scribe was called, who read the contents of the letter aloud, and all listened and applauded, for it was full of the most extravagant encomiums. It was gratifying to me, however, to consider that such false representations of wisdom, talents, honour and wealth had no share in obtaining from me the kind reception given to our party; and, happily, as the utmost had already been done, even such a letter could not draw more from our benevolent host.

"Our conversation of the evening was chiefly on the state of Europe, on the countries I had visited, and those I hoped to see. As the chief had himself been twice to Mecca, making the journey from Damascus, I learned from him also some interesting particulars on that route, and we talked a great deal about those parts of Arabia which we had both seen, namely, the ports of the Hedjas. An excellent bed was prepared for me in a separate room, with clean sheets and cushions covered with silk, and every arrangement was made for my comfort that I could possibly desire."

Early on the morning of the 17th