iences. Here are piles of fruit; fowls, turkeys, and roastingpigs in cages; monkeys and wild birds; little shops of native earthen and wooden wares. Of the fish I have recognized none except mammoth shrimps and young sharks, both always found on the stalls. The side next the Bay, not over a hundred feet from it, presents an exciting scene. While crowds of boatmen and handsomely-formed canoes are waiting to be hired, there is coming in, every now and then, a falua with fish, when stout negroes, all but naked, with baskets on their heads, plunge through the surf (here black and thick with mud) to meet her, rivaling and rushing past each other to get a portion of her cargo first on shore; their shouts, screams, and quarreling equaling any thing on the Niger.

There are no Wells in Rio, though shallow pits, reaching to the surface-water, which is used for scrubbing, etc., are common. Except in very severe droughts, the city is well supplied with water. Here, close by the market, is the Chafariz* of Palace Square. It is a rather small, but an elaborately-wrought structure of cut stone, four square, surmounted by a pyramid, and capped with the Brazilian crown. The water is discharged at the pinnacle of a little stone mount, down which it streams into a shell-formed basin, whence it issues through five spouts at each of three of its sides; hence fifteen vessels can be filling at the same time. This spreading out the fluid and exposing it to the rays of a vertical sun necessarily heats it to a disagreeable degree, but old people say it is not good to drink water that is not agitated. "Beaten water" is better when warm than cold water not "beaten." On the side facing the bay is a tablet, stating that the fountain was erected for the benefit of the "People of Sebastianopolis" in 1789. But the subject of fountains is too copious a one to be treated of in this volume.

Here are no sewers nor sinks-no privies-no, not even where spacious yards and gardens are annexed to dwellings. The use of close-stools is universal even in the rural suburbs! Borne on the heads of slaves, they are emptied into certain parts of the Bay every night, so that walking in the streets after 10 P.M. is often neither safe nor pleasant. In this matter, Rio is what Lisbon is, and what Edinburgh used to be.

* A Moorish word signifying fountain-in universal use in Brazil.

Rio is a city of quarries. It is built of, paved, and inclosed with granite. Its hills, shores, and mountains are all granitic; no other rock is to be seen. It could supply the world with this material, and yet thousands upon thousands of cargoes of stone have been imported. All the old side-walk slabs, the channel for the Carioco Aqueduct, materials for churches, and scores of houses, were brought from Europe. Formerly, a very coarse and dull mottled granite seems only to have been worked. The city is built of it. It is incapable of a smooth surface. I have picked lamina of mica three fourths of an inch over, and half-inch crystals of feldspar from it. A much better kind is now in vogue. It has a fine and uniform grain, and is nearly white.

It is curious to observe the extremes of condition in which adjacent granitic masses are. If all belong to one epoch and rose together, by what means are some preserved indurate and compact, while adjoining ones are crumbling, and others softened to the centre, and changed into a red tenacious loam-the color of the soil not only about Rio, but to the Andes and the Equator? The tint is bright and deep as that of our salmon brick. Castle Hill is, among others, thus decomposed.

A map of the country round Rio would, if the mountain bases were all laid down, be marked like a leopard's skin-the spots equally numerous, and diverse in dimension and outline. Such, it is said, is the surface of a large part of Brazil, as if the whole continent had once been fluid, and in an instant stiffened during ebullition.

Of the high mountain crests, that of the Corcovado is nearest the city. In a straight line, it is four miles from the Customhouse. The Tejuco and Gavia are each two hundred feet higher; the former is nine miles from the city, and the latter somewhat more, but to reach any one of them considerable more ground must be passed over.

From the religious education of the discoverers and early occupiers of the great southern peninsula, its provinces, mountains, rivers, lakes, cities, towns, parishes, avenues, squares, alleys, and, in fact, almost every thing and every person, were christened out of the calendar. Most of the streets of Rio are thus consecrated, as well as its eight parishes and forty-eight

(large and small) churches. The meaning of other names attached to a few districts is not very well settled. Flamingo Beach is supposed to have been frequented at the discovery by birds of that name. Cattete is understood to be the Indian word for the peccary or paca. Engenho Velho from the location of the first sugar-mill. Boto-Fogo from vampyre bats. The common bat is seen here every fair night, but neither cattle nor men are tormented with the monsters so numerous in the northern provinces.

Of Public grounds, the Passeio has been described. The "Campo," the most spacious area, will be noticed in another chapter.

CHAPTER IX.

Sedans. Removing Furniture to new Dwellings.-Street "Cries."-Peddlers.Large Lizard.-Penny Portraits of Saints.-The Intrudo and its Sports.-Of Hindoo Origin. — Death and Burial of the Secretary of the Institute. Church, Coffin, Corpse, Cemetery, and Orations.

The

HAD custom not prevented ladies from promenading the streets, they could not indulge the exercise with any degree of comfort. The thoroughfares of few cities are less adapted for it than those of Rio. Their contracted width, the danger from wheels of trucks and carriages, imperfect side-walks, and sometimes none, to say nothing of the indecencies of blacks, and the offensive condition of places bordering on thoroughfaresthe Gloria Beach, for example, and, worse still, that facing the palace and palace square-are enough to keep the sex in-doors. In suburban avenues ladies can air themselves, but not in the city. They have less inducements than with us to appear abroad. To the attractions of shopping they are strangers. If an article is wanted which the street-peddlers have not, a note is sent by a slave to a store, and samples are returned by him to choose from.

When a lady has occasion to visit the business part of the city, a carriage or a cadeirinha is called. The latter is a sedan. All are built on the same plan, and differ only in ornament. Cadeira is the Portuguese word for chair, and cadeirinha is

literally "little chair." They are derived from the sella gestatoria of Rome, probably fac-similes, and are infinitely more elegant and commodious than the old English box or Opera hand-barrow chair.

er.

shows the skeleton. On an elliptical board thirty inches by twenty, a highbacked chair is fixed, the rails of which extend up to a hoop of the form and dimensions of the base. The curved pole is connected to the base by small iron rods as represented.

The two bearers of a cadeirinha never go in a line; the one at the rear is always more or less to the right or left of his leadThis is easier for themselves and the person they carry. They do not stop to rest, but shift the load occasionally from one shoulder to the other as they proceed-not by actually changing their position with regard to it, but transferring the pressure, by a stout walking-stick thrown over the unoccupied shoulder, and passed under the pole. I met one with a dome of polished leather and a gilt dove on it, the curtains highly embroidered; the ends of the poles were gilt lions' heads. It was

a private one. The slaves that bore it were in a flaming livery. The lady's colored maids walked behind, as in the preceding sketch.

Sometimes a cadeirinha is sent out without its owner. I saw one of a blue color, all but covered with gold embroidery; a broad engrailed band of Cordovan went round the top; two elegant horns or finials arose in front and rear, and on the convex roof a silver or silver-gilt eagle stood. The curtains were drawn aside, exposing the chair within, and upon it an enormous bouquet, a present from the owner of the sedan, its value augmented by this complimentary mode of transmitting it.

Another time I met one with a light green dome crowned with a silver dove. The curtains were crimson, the mourning color for children: the corpse of a child was being taken in it to the cemetery.

It was

20th. Almost pushed into the Bay, the street along the Gloria Beach is the only passage from the city to Boto-Fogo. On entering it, I turned aside to an alms-box fastened to the corner of a mean venda, close to where I first sprang on shore. apparently for the relief of infant souls. Fat Dutch cherubs had been painted on it, but time had well-nigh extinguished the flames and bleached them into snow-drifts. While looking on, a yell and hurlement burst forth that made me start as if the shricks were actually from Tartarus. From dark spirits they really came. A troop of over twenty negroes, each bearing on his head one or more articles of household furniture-chairs, tables, bedsteads, bedding, pots, pans, candlesticks, water-jars, and crockery-every thing, in fact, belonging to a family moving to a new domicile. Chanting only at intervals, they passed the lower part of the Cattete in silence, and then struck up the Angola warble that surprised me. There they go, jog-trotting on! The foremost, with pants ending at the knees, a red woolen strip round his waist, upon his head a mop, whose colored thrums play half way down his naked back, and in his hand a gourd-rattle, fringed with carpet-rags, beats time and leads the

way.

The "cries" of London are bagatelles to those of the Brazilian capital. Slaves of both sexes cry wares through every street. Vegetables, flowers, fruits, edible roots, fowls, eggs, and