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CONTENTS.
CHAPTER I.
New York to Hampton Roads: Passports.-Wrinkled Faces.-Bataleurs.-Rich-
mond.—Market.—Mules.-Lotteries.-James River.-Floating Boarding-house
-A Virginian Job.-Crippled Slave.-The Roads
CHAPTER II.
Page 17
Ten Days' Sail Beat out.-New Sensations.-Captain in Costume.-A Gale.—
Sea-sickness.-Water Rams.-Gulf Stream.-Christmas Carols.-Human Dar-
ing.-Ship hunted by marine Demons.-Hard Life of Seamen.-Cook and Cap-
tain.-Enchanting Skies.-Minute Crabs.....
CHAPTER III.
26
Twenty-four Days' Sail: Sea Sorrows.-A Genoese.-Rough Weather.-A Fly-
ing-fish.-Flowers of Death.-Oceanic Skies.-The Atmosphere charged with
red Dust-Firmamental Paintings.-Flying-fish Latitudes.-Cream-colored or
Quaker Skies.-Flying-fish again.—A Meniscus.—A Squall.—A ship in Dis-
tress.—A young Fly.—In the Variables.—The Ocean unchangeable.-Temper-
ature of Air and Water.-Brazilian Coasts.
CHAPTER IV.
35
Diagram of the Ship's Motions.-The Ravels at Sea.-Sailing in Elysium.-
Worlds are Ships of the Almighty Merchant.-The Nebula his Ship-yards.--
The Ocean a Type of the Sea of Life.—Abrolhos and Squalls.—Cape Frio.—
Land-breeze.-Sea-breeze.-Sugar-loaf.-Enter the Bay.-Former Treatment
of Foreigners.-Table of Latitudes and Longitudes during the Voyage..... 47
CHAPTER V.
The Bay, City, and Suburbs from the Ship-The Forts.-I land alone.-The Cat-
tete.-A Brazilian Parlor.-Meeting of two Brothers
CHAPTER VI.
57
Almanacs.-Livery Stables.-Carriages.-Honorable H. A. Wise.-The Host.-
Booming of the Surf-The Matadoura.-Beeves.-Assist at Mass.-Esmola
Box.-Apollonia.—A Funeral.—Funeral Customs.-Mourning.-Cost of Mass-
es for the Dead
62
CHAPTER VII.
The Military Arsenal: its Manufactures.-Fine old bronze Ordnance.-School.
-Ceremony of the Hat.-Larangeiras.-Cattete Brook and Washerwomen.--
A Brazilian Chacara. - Old Portuguese Customs. - Butterflies. - Fountains.
-Indian Medicine-tree.-A Dessert after the manner of Eden.---Uniformity
of tropical Heats.-Iron Collars on Slaves.-Shoes and Neckcloths symbols
of Freedom.-The Vicar and Sneezing.-The public Garden an earthly Ely-
sium.
CHAPTER VIII.
Page 71
Sudden Floods and their singular Inconveniences.-Discovery of Brazil.-Indians
and early Navigators. - Rio founded by French Protestants.-Their religious
Disputes. An Indian Chief knighted. - His Descendants. - Location of the
City-Saints of the Hills.-Streets and Pavements.-Houses.-Jalousies.—
Roofs.-Chimneys.-Spouts.-Street Lamps.-Substitute for Bells and Door-
knockers.-Signs.-Markets.-Fountains.-No Sewers or Sinks.-Rio a City
of Quarries-Neighboring Mountains.-Names of Streets, etc.
CHAPTER IX.
81
Sedans. Removing Furniture to new Dwellings.-Street "Cries."-Peddlers.-
Large Lizard.-Penny Portraits of Saints.-The Intrudo and its Sports -Of
Hindoo Origin. - Death and Burial of the Secretary of the Institute. - The
Church, Coffin, Corpse, Cemetery, and Orations
CHAPTER X.
90
The Marimba.-Procession announced.--Unloading Lime-boats.-Lapa Convent
and Lady at Confession.-The Campo and Lavandeiras.-Dog-killers.-Custom-
house.-Trucks.-A Slave chained to one.-Young and old Women in Chains.
-Coffee Carriers.-Crippled Slaves. The Spectacle given up.-An Angel.-
The Musuem.--Antiquities, etc.-Fathers of Snuff and the Snuff-trade.-Orig-
inal Snuff-mills and Sniffing Apparatus.- Slave-traders.-Monastery of San
Bento its Monks, Chapel, Cells, Library, and Bookworms.-Sopping.-Great
Wealth of this Monastery
111
CHAPTER XI.
Diversity of Complexion in one Family-Sabbath Diversions.-Street of Silver-
smiths. Its staple Manufactures.-Amulets.-Figas.-Lock and Key.-Passage
in Shakspeare explained.-Eating-houses. - Charges.-Sneezers "blessed.”—
Priests. Free colored Men.-Great Consumption of Pork.—National Dish.—
Pastry and Confectionery.-Heavenly Bacon.-Francis of Penitence.--Brother-
hoods akin to modern Odd Fellows.-Terms of Admission.-Advantages.-Who
this Francis was.-Garden, and Electric Eel-Current Philosophy respecting
the Sex-Divination.-Provincial Nicknames.-Dowries in Cocoa and Coffee-
trees.-Vegetable and other Sobriquets. - Horsewomen.-Officers' Wives on
Drill in Military Costume.-Morals of the Priesthood...
CHAPTER XII
130
Visit to Christoval: native Sheep-Palace of a Peddler -Imperial Quinta.-Ra-
pacity of the old Queen.-Miguel-A Viscount and his strange Employment.-
Emperor's Apartments.-Objects of Natural History.-Collection of Coins
Peruvian, Egyptian, and Roman Antiquities. - Laboratory. - Theatre, and
Garden
144
CHAPTER XIII.
Poor Anthony robbed.-Ex Votos.-Their Manufacture.-Humming-bird and Bou-
quet.-Affronted Image and wicked Painter.-His Punishment, and Process of
disaffronting" the Image.-Imperial Chapel and its Shrines.-Turk's Head.—
Barefooted Friars.-Estaçio de Sá.-Slab over him.-Chief of the Capuchins
-Virgin's Shoe-sole.—Architectural Remains.―Ajuda Convent.-Dumb Wait-
er.-Glimpse into the Interior.-Vestals.-Nuns in the Ajuda, and their Treat-
ment
CHAPTER XIV.
Page 151
Candelaria Church.-Jacks of the Clock.-Peccary.—God's Stepfather.-Botanic
Garden. Snake.-Fences.-Dinner and its Cost.-Catalogue of Plants in the
Garden....
169
CHAPTER XV.
Goddess of the Blind.-Her Church, Shrines, and Symbols.-A Slave consulting
her.-Interview with her Sacristan.-Ex Votos.-Our Lady of the Cape of Good
Hope-Insuring Friars.-Other Professional and Competing Saints.--Street
Images
CHAPTER XVI.
176
Rain. Mechanical Professions.-Labor versus Respectability.-Effect on young
Men.-Building.—Hammer-gamut.-Working Hours and Wages.-Rejoicings
over Rafters. — Masons and Masonry. --Scaffolds.-Walls.-Antiquity of the
Tools.-Plummet.-Hatchet or Adze.-Carpenter's Bench.-Saw and Planes.—
Mode of laying Floors.-Doors, Shutters, Hardware.-Pavers.-Lithography.-
Coppersmiths.-Lamp.—Slave Artisans.—Merchants. — Barbers.—Beggars.—
Lawyers.-Lotteries.
CHAPTER XVII.
183
Maté and Cups.-Sunday Scenes.-Gloria Church.-Images, Vestry, Ex Votos.
and Paintings.-Miracles in behalf of Pedro I. and one of his Daughters.-Lady
of Gloria and a Larangeiras Absalom.-Chapel of the Ajuda grated like a Jail.
-Its Shrines and Images.-A Penitent licking the Dust.-Public Notice of a
Procession.-Images, Angels, and Pomp described... 198
CHAPTER XVIII.
All Fools' Day.-Streets flooded.-Breaking down Mountains.-Notices of Festi-
vals.-Flying Visit to Francis Paula, St. Anne, Joaquim, St. Rita, Bom Jesus,
and the Candelaria.-No Animal Oils burned in Churches.-Carmelite Proces-
sion with full-grown Images.-The Nimbus and its curious Origin ....... 208
CHAPTER XIX.
Palm Sunday: Ceremonies and Customs.-Eunuch Singers.-Specimens of Ec-
clesiastical Advertisements.-Benedictine Chapel.-Dark Wednesday.-A Mer-
ceeiro. Juno Lucina of Rio.-Lady of Civilities.-Holy Thursday.-Matracas.
-Silver Plate in the Carmo Church.-Kissing a dead Christ in the Candelaria.
-Appearance of the Interior.-Kissing the Floor and Steps in the Bom Jesus
-Plate in the Paula.-Mine-finders.
217
CHAPTER XX.
Good Friday.-Capuchins preaching.-Burial of God.-Dresses and Jewels of the
Angels.-Allelulia Saturday.-Blessing Fire and Water.-Paschal Candle.-
Killing Judas.—Church Machinery.—Cinerary Urns and Commemoration of
the Dead-Symbols carried by Angels.-Boy Monk.-Little Prospect of Prot-
estant Missions succeeding in Brazil.-Mary of Nazareth....
Page 227
CHAPTER XXI.
Amulets
the Church a Mart for them.-Measures of Saints.-Royal Touches
and metallic Tractors.-Bentinhos.-Pictures of Saints.-Indulgences.-Hindoo
Pictures. - Portable Images. Medals of Saints.
-
Bedini.-Symbols of the
- Pieces of holy Rock.-Hippocanthus.-Figa.-
Ashes of Palm.-Rue.-Love Powder. Sieve and Shears.-Curing the Be-
witched.-Negro Witches. Cures for Whitlows and Toothache.-The Evil
Eye.-Rio Poulterers troubled with it.-Horns quench it..
CHAPTER XXII.
241
Begging for the Holy Ghost.-The Symbols.-Mr. Barboza.-An afflicted Moth-
er. The City agitated through Mistake.-San Jorge.-Market.-Church of
Peddlers.- Burying-ground of Heretics. - Small Water-craft. - Beeves of the
Sun.-Lady of Navigators.-Mozambique tribal Marks.-Church of Boa Via-
gem.-Ex Votos and Miracles.-Curious Lavatory.-View of the Harbor and
Mountains. Alms-box.-Ships' Sails vowed to Our Lady, and sold on her Ac-
count.-Indian Boy.-Wax offered to Marine Deities by old Pagans.—Other
Heathen Types of Romish Customs....
CHAPTER XXIII.
250
People of Color.-Twilight and Climate.-Barbonos Monks.-The Ex-Nuncio.-
Henry A. Wise recalled.-Arrival of the Emperor and Anxieties of Courtiers.
-A new Saint.-Mask.-Market Incident.-St. Peter's Church.-N. S. Con-
ceição. Plaster Images proposed.-Collecting-days and Collectors.-Church of
the Mother of Men.-Fat Ladies and Gentlemen.-Unctuous Worship of N. S's.
Shoe-sole.-Bedini, the new Nuncio.....
267
CHAPTER XXIV.
Pluvial Deity. Aqueduct Records. - Pope John. - Ecclesiastical "Cries.".
Slaves.-Army Recruits.-The Emperor opens the Legislature.-Fires and Fire-
engines. Slaves. Suicide. Begging for the Holy Ghost.-Auction of
Slaves...
275
CHAPTER XXV.
Winter.-New Saint.-Lady do Parto.-An English Monk-Black and white In-
fants in Purgatory.-Auction at a private Dwelling: its Furniture, Garden, La-
res, Oratorio, and Slaves.--Barber's Basin and Shaving-cloth.-Mass and Capu-
chins.-Church of the Rosary, its Images and Ex Votos.-A sick Man.-Old
Uncertain Origin of the Negro Saint. Ramble through Nicthe-
284
Slave.
rohy.....
---
CHAPTER XXVI.
Inauguration of a new Saint: how the alleged Bones were procured.-Buried in
a waxen Figure.-The Bishop's Letter.-The Affair generally condemned.—
Bedini and Miranda. — The Emperor declines joining the Procession. — The
Pomp. The "Arca" and Saint within.-Official Account.-Newspaper Puff.-
A Visit to Priscilliana.-Miranda's Circular.-A French Tribunal on Religious
Impositions....
CHAPTER XXVII.
Page 294
A Day for getting Souls out of Purgatory.-Trip to the Falls of Tejuca.-Charac-
ter of the Country.-Anacharsis and Charcoal.-Fat Pigs and Morphea.-Mills.
-Cotton-tree.-Coffee Plantation.-Tailless Dogs and Fowls.-Process of pre-
paring Coffee for the Market.-Early Notice of Cauphe.-The Falls.-Dinner
and Dessert at them.-Inscriptions on the Gavia.
CHAPTER XXVIII.
305
Church Advertisements.-Auction and Fire-works at St. Rita's Church.-Articles
sold.-Official Puff.-Horse-racing in honor of the Holy Ghost.-St. Gonçalo
the Friend of the unmarried.-Capuchin preaching.-Two Slaves given to the
Friars, and their Baptism by Bedini.-Chief Capuchin.—Priscilliana.—Famine
in Ceara.-Indians bought and sold
CHAPTER XXIX.
312
Winter and Western Islanders.-Brazilian Names: their Derivation and Import.
-Primitive Patronymics.-Combinations.-Names in connection with Profes-
sions.-Names of Ships.-Pigs and Pig-stealing.-Invitation to Tea.... 324
CHAPTER XXX.
St. Anthony of Padua: his Monastery and Miracles.-His Rank and Salary as a
Soldier. Shameful Treatment of his Images.-Feast of the Holy Ghost.-Auc-
tions and Fire-works, etc
CHAPTER XXXI.
329
Vicar and Vintems.-Theatricals.-Barbonos Monks and the troublesome Black-
smith.-Priscilliana.-Host and drunken Bellman.-Proceedings of the National
Senate arrested.-Slave-trader's Office.-Anthony of the Poor: his Festival and
Tablets.-Mosquitoes and Lizards.-Corpus Christi and St. George.-Showmen
and the Burial.
CHAPTER XXXII.
349
Crockery-wares: Talhas.-Monkey.-Moringues.-Furnaces, Flower-pots, etc.—
Water-baril.-Scrubbing-brush.-Mortars.-Fuel
CHAPTER XXXIII.
357
A Trip to Macacu.-Steam up the Bay.-Prospects.-Slaves.-Sambayratiba.—
Dense Mist.-Bed-chamber.-Attacked by Rats.-Extent of the Pest.—Sugar-
house. Stingless Bees.-Sheep-Dogs without Tails. Visit other Estates.-
Wasps' and Ants' Nests.-The Rats again.-Scenes in the Forest.—Sipos.-
Spoon Wheels. Female Slaves making Brick.-Chigres.-Muleteers camping.
-Estate of the Carmelites.-Mules 361