FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT. CHERE AMIE, NOVEMBER, 1855. BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. October 27th, 1855. THE present moment is full of change in the world of fashion, which extends to most of our articles of dress. Robes are spoken of with corsages, basqués before and behind; and without basques, bearing the attractive name of Imperatrice. Cloth dresses are now being made; they will be worn with chemisettes inside and small collars of Alençon; the sleeves of these dresses allow under ones of tulle bouillonné to be seen under. Silks in wide stripes are very fashionable; they are made with corsages with basques, and ornamented with sevillian fringes or wide lace. Taffetas dresses are much in request: a pretty style of trimming them is with two broad pieces of velvet, on which are noeuds of the same velvet, terminating with tassels, pagoda sleeves with under ones of tulle d'Alençon, full and with bouillons. Pretty dresses are made of blue or molachite green, spotted with black velvet; the flounces edged by a galon of the same colour richly broché in velvet designs, with chenille fringe of mixed colour at the edge; the bodies with or without basquines, ornamented with velvet, forming coeur before, and behind falling on the sleeve, so as to form a deep jockey or epaulet-the sleeves formed of three sabots, falling one on the other. Skirts will continue more or less with flounces, two wide ones or several smaller; the corsages, with basques, are worn with skirts, ornamented en tablier. Some of the corsages only form basque behind. Skirts ornamented with ruches are pretty upon it, in three tiers, composed each of three rows; the trimming on the body should correspond. Lace was never more fashionable than at the present moment: it will be the ornament most generally in use this season on all costumes: it is often almost half a yard wide, placed in one or two flounces on the taffetas dresses with double skirt, the widest flounces entirely covering the upper skirt, the body being entirely covered with lace; these toilettes have the effect of lace dresses. Bugles will, it is said, be very much used on ball dresses. Crape and tulle ones are preparing, sprigged with white bugles and small VOL. 28. tips of marabouts. Satin skirts, with stripes bouillonnées, narrow velvet dividing each bouillon; the flounces à disposition are always in favour. Velvet trimmings of every description will be in favour this winter, whether wove in the material or laid on; stamped and plain velvet are equally used; plush is also seen wove in the material. Among the most elegant novelties are the moire antiques, brocart and velvet in alternate wide stripes; these rich materials require no trimming, and are very pretty worn with a basquine of velvet the colour of the velvet stripe; they will be much worn entirely of black, which continues very fashionable. Many skirts of black taffetas are made with three or four flounces, edged by a wide ribbon of moire checked with velvet or plush of contrasting colour. Sometimes the ribbon covers one-third of the flounce; instead of ribbon wide bands of velvet edge flounces of black taffetas: these are placed à cheval or straight up, forming points at the top, trimmed with a very narrow black lace a little full rising up the flounce. Another style of trimming is of three wide biais of black velvet, placed on plain on a skirt of violet green or blue taffetas; the lower part of the biais has the appearance of being double, whilst the top is headed by a ruche: this style of trimming with velvets of the same colour as the dress is very pretty. The pagoda sleeves seem quite to yield up their place to close ones; those contemplated to be worn this winter are made very wide and laid in folds from the armhole to the wrist, where they terminate with a band. This style forms a very great change to all that have preceded it; but as in many things contrasts are often resorted to in fashion, and we run to extremes for winter wear, no one can object, but we hope when Spring again gladdens us, that some return will be made to the open sleeve. Some of the sleeves are with folds from the shoulder to the bend of the arm, where it forms frill of its own fulness, and under sleeves of spotted tulle or muslin, with triple bouillons and frill at the wrist. The manteaux this winter will not be confined to the Talma, which has now become rather common; but the new ones are composed of several pieces with passage for the arms. Velvets and embroidered cachemires will be used for handsome ones, cloths and flannels for negligé; but it is more particularly in the form that attention is called for. Basquines of velvet are being used at present as they were in the Spring, until the manteaux are required, forming a pretty intermediate to the fashion of the two seasons, though they are only suitable to certain figures and youthful persons: they are ornamented with lace fringes or embroidery; some of the laces are so deep as to half cover the skirt, attached to the edge of the basquine, which is richly embroidered. A second lace forms berthe, rounded behind and descending to the waist: it diminishes in size in front, terminating in a point at the ceinture; these laces may be replaced by rich fringes, on which are ornaments of velvet or olive tassels of chenille; these basquines look very well with the skirts of wide stripes, satin, or moire and velvet intermixed; the richness of these full skirts renders all trimmings unnecessary. Flounced skirts are not, however, excluded for wear with these basquines; some are of black taffetas, with three flounces entirely covered by embroidery; the basquines of velvet trimmed with rich laces. The rich laces of Cambray ornament the velvet manteaux ; they are placed on the velvet, headed by a wide embroidery of foliage or flowers, in which chenille, silk, and bugles are intermixed; these manteaux are very full. On most of them a wide lace is placed below the embroidery, so as to form a pelerine or rotonde; the sleeves, which are formed in the manteaux are rather wide and hanging, and are similarly trimmed. The Talma form will certainly again be worn this winter, though it may perchance change its name or admit of some variation in the ornaments. Some made of dark velvets are with folds so arranged as to form sleeves on the arm, which makes them more comfortable; these are trimmed with rich fringes, headed by a galon of satin and plush; they are also sometimes lined with plush. Many will be of plain velvet; others again of silk, gray plush, cloth velonté; for negligé black Talmas will still be worn. Bonnets will be made a little deeper in front, enclosing the face rather more; the crowns remain small, round, and flat; the bavolets will be very deep, drooping a little in the centre; the edges of bonnets will be much ornamented, sometimes by a wreath of curled feathers. Black lace is very much used to ornament them, and many are entirely covered with black tulle, which may be embroidered in the colour of the taffetas composing the bonnet. Taffetas striped with velvet is made of every colour, and forms elegant bonnets, with a band of feathers frisé at the edge; bands of taffetas and plush with blond fluted between also form pretty bonnets. Bonnets of taffetas have the crowns traversed by three bands of velvet of the same colour, meeting at the side under a bow of velvet with long ends, a bunch of flowers on the other side, a voilette of blond at the edge turns back, partially concealing the flowers and rounding off, forms frill over the bavolet. Simple pretty bonnets are made of insertions of black lace, divided by rouleaux of black velvet; black taffetas will also form pretty bonnets this winter, intermixed with velvet and lace. Bonnets and capotes will be of two kinds; some close, others open, which last effect will be produced by forming small slits or entailles at the edge. Velvet is superseding ribbon for the trimmings, mixed with fancy flowers; wheat ears of velvet have a very pretty effect, mixed with crape roses. Velvet bonnets are much intermingled with blond, and bouquets of pink roses or pink feathers shaded with black. Plush is much used for young persons in white, with trimmings of Terry velvet and noeuds of rich ribbons at the side with long ends, and small wreaths of daisies inside. Bonnets of Terry velvet of sea green are ornamented by long branches of osier, mixed green and brown united on the top by a nœud formed of a white blond lappet, the inside ornamented by bouillons of tulle and clematis of velvet of mixed colour. Bonnets of Terry velvet or satin cannelé are intermixed with white blond or black lace; some have the crowns encircled by a blond guipure entirely covering the bavolet or curtain, and, falling on the front, unites under a bunch of roses at one side; a nœud of ribbon placed on the centre of the crown nearly covered the space between the blond, which covered the bavolet and the front; inside a noud of blond on one side, formed by a lappet and opposite coques of ribbon similar to that on the bonnet; this style repeated with black lace on green silk is also pretty. DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire antique, with basquine of ruby velvet, trimmed with black lace, two rows forming revers on the body, and very wide lace at the basque. Bonnet of Terry velvet and lace. Evening Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, with double skirts, bordered by bouillons of tulle intermixed with bunches of daisies; the body covered by tulle in bouillons. Morning Dress-Robe of popeline, with jacket of the same, trimmed with bands of velvet. Small lace cap, with flowers. Carriage Dress.-Robe of violet taffetas, with flounces, edged by bands of velvet; high plain body, with basquine of the same trimmed to match. Bonnet of fancy straw, ornamented by feathers and ruches. Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire, with double skirts ornamented by stamped velvet; plain high body, with bretelles. Mantelet of velvet, trimmed with black lace. Bonnet of green velvet and white lace. PLATE II. Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with plain high body and skirt, with flounces edged with fringe and galons of plush; paletot of black taffetas, trimmed with very wide fringe and tassels. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin, ornamented with feathers. Little Girl's Dress.-Frock of pink cachemire; basquine of ruby velvet and plush bonnet. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with flounces; mantelet of velvet, trimmed with black lace and ruches of ribbon. Bonnet of pink Terry velvet. Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire, ornamented by deep vandykes of velvet, the point rising half way up the skirt; mantelet of marron velvet, with frill trimmed with bands of sable fur. Bonnet of ruby velvet, trimmed with black lace and wheatears. Carriage Dress-Robe of pearl grey taffetas, with flounces edged by bouillons; the jacket body to correspond; mantelet of taffetas, trimmed with numerous frills and fringe at the bottom. Capote of taffetas and lace, with flowers. PLATE III. Carriage Dress.-Robe with flounces, ornamented with fringe in vandykes; jacket body, with pelerine to correspond; mantelet of green silk, with very deep fringe. Bonnet of Terry velvet and satin. Evening Dress-Robe of tarlatane; the body is rather full, but pointed with bretelles of ribbon; the skirt is covered by flounces, edged by a gold-coloured puffing of ribbon, and nœud of ribbon between the two flounces on each side. Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with flounces edged by a small ribbon ruche; tight high body, with bretelles vandyked at each side and edged by a ruche. Cachemire shawl. Capote of Terry velvet, with bunches of flowers at the side. Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with jacket_body; Talma of velvet, trimmed with band of marten fur. Bonnet of plush and Terry velvet. Morning Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with two deep flounces, each bordered by several rows of ribbon puffings; jacket |