which these bretelles are made-sometimes of a fulling of tarlatane, edged by a white feather trimming; others are of velvet or ribbon, the end floating to the knees. The newest sleeves for dresses of light texture, as grenadine crape, &c., are of triple falls, or very wide Turkish sleeve, edged with lace, and looped up by a brooch. The present demand for high bodies, even in dress, occasions much attention to the collars, which are of a very rich description-some so large as to resemble small pelerines, and others with lengthened vandykes in front, forming lappet, confined by a brooch; for evening dress, they are made of silk guipure, which, worn over velvet, has a rich effect. Plush frisé is much used on walking dresses of taffetas with three flounces, which are edged by deep bands of it; the mantelet corresponds, and terminates with a broad lace in black or dark colours: this style is much approved en negligé. Many promenade dresses are entirely of black velvet, robe and Talma alike, the skirt very full and long behind, falling in rich folds. The Talma, or round cloak, is trimmed with rich chenille fringes, guipure or lace headed by a band, plush or feather trimming; the more elegant ones are embroidered in twisted silk. Talmas, burnous, all manteaux of the circular form, are those preferred this season; the difference mostly consisting in the manner of arranging the folds so as to produce the effect of sleeves. Sometimes sleeves are introduced; others are with openings for the passage of the arm. Velvet is the favourite material, embroidered and trimmed with lace. The manteau mousquetaire is one of the latest novelties: it is rather tight, showing the figure, without being so tight as to encase it, but is only suitable for tall, slight figures. The Tweed is another form of Spring manteau, which buttons as a redingote, and may be made in any coloured velvet, ornamented with guipure or bugles. With respect to bonnets we must wait a little longer for novelties, when we hope to announce much improvement in the form; some of the newest are ornamented on the crown with nœuds, having an end passing under the bavolet, the fronts advancing a little more on the forehead in a point, and three little plumes of feathers at the edge. Black velvet bonnets are worn with coloured trimmings; but great preparations are making for the coming Spring in the straw bonnet magazines. The great beauty now attained in that department is extraordinary, and unites elegance, lightness, and beauty. Many bonnets are of black velvet, but with feathers, flowers, or trimmings; of colour deep blue greens, shaded or violet. The voilettes of lace or tulle, worked with bugles, frequently accompany these negligé bonnets. DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. PLATE I. Walking Dress.-Robe of moire, with jacket body. Pardessus of iron grey taffetas, with deep pelerine and collar trimmed with stamped velvet. Capote of pink Terry velvet and satin. Child's Dress-Frock of cachemire, with jacket of the same trimmed with ribbon ruches. Capote of green satin. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas; the skirt covered with flounces edged by bands of swansdown; the jacket and triple bell sleeves similarly ornamented, with under body fastening up the centre with double row of buttons. Capote of Terry velvet and ribbon. Carriage Dress.-Robe of striped brocaded silk, high body with basques; veste of black velvet, trimmed with black lace, headed by a bouillon. Bonnet of pink satin and velvet with feathers. Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire, with flounces in van dykes, edged by a ribbon ruche; high body with basques to correspond. Manteau of cinnamon cachemire cloth trimmed with two rows of very wide fringe. Bonnet of deep blue velvet, with open edge, on which is a wreath of flowers, and the crown is encircled by a wreath formed of the tips of feathers. PLATE II. Carriage Dress.-Robe of reps; the skirt is ornamented by biais of moire; the jacket body corresponds. Mantelet of black velvet, trimmed with lace, headed by a ribbon ruche and embroidery. Capote of velvet and satin, ornamented with white lace. Evening Dress.-Robe of tarlatane, with double skirt; the under one is ornamented by bouillons interspersed with nœuds of ribbon; the upper one is looped up to form deep festons, edged with a bouillon; pointed body, with bretelles and noeuds. The hair in bandeaux, with flowers. Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline, with high body and bands of peluche frisé crossing the body en bretelle; the skirt is covered with flounces, which as well as the basque and sleeves are bordered by bands of plush. Bonnet of fancy straw and taffetas. Dinner Dress.-Robe of moire, with open body and basques, ornamented by small ribbon ruches; the sleeves of triple bells edged with ruches. Chemisette of guipure; sleeves and cap to match. Walking Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with flounces edged by velvet ribbon; high body with basques. Manteau Talma, with armholes. Bonnet of marron silk and velvet. PLATE III. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with flounces edged by stamped velvet. Pardessus of velvet, trimmed with a deep fringe. Capote of taffetas and velvet. Promenade Dress.-Robe of reps, with flounces trimmed with several rows of narrow velvet, and edged by a bouillon; jacket of velvet. Mantelet shawl of taffetas, trimmed with lace. Bonnet of white Terry velvet, with feathers. Promenade Dress.-Robe of popeline, trimmed with velvet. Manteau of taffetas, edged with velvet in a scollop and black lace. Bonnet of Terry velvet, with scolloped edge of ribbon ruche and flowers at each side. Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire; pardessus of black velvet, with large sleeves trimmed all round by a band of fancy feather trimming. Capote of satin and lace. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas, with jacket body, and the skirt covered by flounces, edged by rosaces of velvet encircled by a small ruche; the same, in diminished style, on the body and sleeves. Capote of Terry velvet and satin. MOURNING PLATE. Dinner Dress-Robe of Areophane crape, with double skirt in tucks; jacket of black velvet ornamented with lace; sleeves and collar of embroidered muslin. Head-dress of velvet and marabout feathers. Walking Dress.-Robe of embroidered cachemire, with flounces and high body. Manteau of cloth, trimmed with three narrow rows of plush and fringe. Capote of white Terry velvet and satin nouds. Carriage Dress.-Robe of iron grey taffetas, with flounces and jacket body. Manteau of richly embroidered velvet, trimmed with fringe. Bonnet of black Terry velvet, with feathers. Dinner Dress-Skirt of black glacé silk, with three deep flounces, ornamented by alternate rows of narrow velvet and fringe. High body of black velvet, with basques trimmed with black lace; sleeves and collar of silk guipure. Headdress of lace. |