FROM OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT. CHERE AMIE, APRIL, 1855. BOULEVARD DES ITALIENS. March 27th, 1855. THE wide stripes which have been worn lately are likely to be continued in the spring materials, both for visiting and evening dresses; the latter, in light colours, having a wreath broché on one of the satin stripes, and made with double skirts, raised at the side by bouquets of velvet flowers continued as small wreaths up to the waist, the bodies draped and confined in the centre and on the shoulders by bouquets of flowers. Pretty dresses for slight mourning are made of white crape, the flounces trimmed with narrow black velvet, and braces of black velvet on the body; others, pearl gray silk, are embroidered with white bugles. A very novel toilette was composed entirely of taffetas, ribbon, and insertions of black lace, both edges of which being in vandykes is laid flat on the ribbon, which is quite plain, and worn over a satin skirt of a paler shade, but same colour as the ribbon. The body is en gerbe, with fullness confined at the shoulders by a cameo, and raising the small draped sleeves. Cherry colour has been the favourite colour for evening dresses lately, in crape, tulle, or gauze de Chambery, a material much in favour this winter, uniting the lightness of tulle, but less liable to lose its freshness. Dresses of taffetas have also been worn of cerise colour with triple skirts, each ornamented by a bouillon of tulle of the same colour, interspersed with small rosettes of noeuds of white satin above the bouillon; the flounce was covered by one of lace. Dresses of plain tulle with double skirts are entirely covered by bouillons, those on the under skirt terminating where the second commences; the body ornamented by bouillons in the bretelle form en cœur before and behind; numerous little bouquets formed of three transparent gold leaves were sprinkled all over this dress. Moire is worn by young ladies now for evening dress of light colours, and the trimmings are quite confined to the bodies; the skirts are sometimes double. These toilettes are mostly reserved for very crowded assemblies. Taffetas has become a very fashionable material, and forms at this moment the foundation of all toilettes; the dresses VOL. 28. now making of taffetas are very numerous, as well as bonnets. Among the dresses the most simple are with three skirts with wide hem, pink, white, or blue raised at the sides by a nœud or bunch of flowers; the bodies in drapery. The dresses of grenadine have the flounces edged by ruches, fringe, or a series of narrow blonds. A great novelty has appeared in a tulle dress with triple skirts, the seams of which are all left open, and edged by narrow cordons of flowers. The simple toilettes for evening réunions are of taffetas, pale blue, pink, or white, with double skirts or triple flounces festonnes, or trimmed with bouillons of tulle the same colour as the dress; others of plain tulle have merely a hem raised at the sides by noeuds of ribbon. Many dresses of crape have the flounces edged by fringes of marabout; gauzes are with triple skirts, on each of which are three or four ribbon ruches; others in the same style have satin ribbons put on flat at intervals, diminishing gradually to the top, the upper one being raised up at the sides by noeuds from the ceinture, united by a plait of ribbon. The bretelles or braces will meet with much encouragement this season for evening dress, not only by youthful ladies to add elegance to their light and simple toilettes, but dresses of more rich materials also admit of this addition in another style. A dress of moire was ornamented by two ends of black lace, scarf attached to the shoulder by a few flowers of velvet, and descending as bretelles to the waist, where they crossed under an ornament of precious stones, and separating, drooped down each side of the skirt to the flounce, which was a very deep one. For indoor wear taffetas skirts, with corsages of different forms, are fashionable, some with large round collars, under which is a wide taffetas ribbon forming braces before and behind; in front is a noeud with long ends, and two smaller noeuds trim the small embroidered muslin frills, revers, and sleeves à la duchesse are of embroidered muslin; and insertions are also worn, the revers descending to the waist. Several new materials are appearing of woollen manufacture; they are generally used for dresses with basque, and no trimming on the skirt, the basques being ornamented by ribbon fluted or in ruches, or galons of pluche or velvet. Some collars for morning wear are made of insertions of valenciennes and work in horizontal lines, some terminating in pointed festons encircled with lace, others are square, bordered by an insertion of embroidery all round the collar, with valenciennes fulled on at the edge; under sleeves are worn less open, and for morning wear they mostly close with an embroidered wristband; they form full bouffants encircled with valenciennes. A new style is with double revers laid one on the other. The mantelets this season will be worn small, off the shoulders, and trimmed with rich laces. The circular form continues in favour; it is a kind of round pelerine trimmed with a frill fluted or gathered. A new mantelet is composed of two wide frills, which cover the form or foundation, and are ornamented by taffetas, ribbon brodé, gauze ribbon or moire antique, and fringe of marabout. Another kind is with wide biais replacing the frill, composed of two biais of taffetas and one of velvet between, and collar formed of biais. Scarfs are also made of insertions of guipure and bands of velvet, with rich fringe all around. The coiffures for evening toilettes are very much in the Grecian style; flowers and pearls intermix with advantage. Velvet feathers and ribbon are much in favour for head dresses. Spring is the season for paille de riz and lilac flowers. They may be blended in many various and pretty ways with bands of straw, and frills of ribbon fluted, or gauffered crin, white and black worked in chenille. Bonnets of beaver coloured crape are ornamented with bunches of grapes made of crape. Though the bonnets are not larger, they are of a very pretty form, encircling the face, but less spread, more oval than round; the materials of taffetas or satin are frequently put on plain, and covered by a spotted tulle, either black or white, and ornamented with flowers or feathers, which are sometimes sprinkled with bugles, and the interior with pompons of lace and flowers. Bonnets of taffetas and crape are ornamented by a lace lappet tying on the top of the bonnet. Ornaments of lace, velvet, or flowers are all much used on the capotes of taffetas; some are with two feathers, matching in colour, descending the sides and covering the bavolet; three rouleaux edge the capote, terminating on one side under a noud of velvet, and on the other under a nœud formed by a blond lappet. The fancy straws consist rather of bands, insertions, and ribbon frills, which are variously arranged, and preferred to the plain straws. Gauffered straw with mohair and black velvet compose pretty bonnets; the calotte or crown often of crape, and crêves of crape round the edge. Taffetas, so much used this winter, is also fashionable for the prettiest bonnets, and is mixed with velvet, lace, flowers, or noeuds. Very pretty capotes of pale blue or pink are ornamented by two feathers of the same colour, descending the sides and returning back over the bavolet, which they almost entirely cover; they are united at the top of the front by a nœud of velvet; the brim has three rouleaux of velvet, between which is a delicate wreath of blond leaves; the same inside the front, terminating on one side; a noud of velvet and a nœud of blond on the other. The same style looks well with green taffetas, black velvet and black feathers. Dress bonnets are so small and transparent as to resemble coiffures; many are of crape, with two small feathers in small bunches at each side, or a long spiral one terminating on the bavolet; at the commencement of the feather, which is at the side, is a nœud of ribbon or blond falling low on the shoulders. A pretty bonnet of violet satin was covered with a black spotted tulle, and had two small feathers, violet shaded with black; inside were bunches of violets in velvet, and a small black spotted tulle veil attached to the edge, and a violet wreath embroidered round. A bonnet of white crape was ornamented with liseries of marron velvet and tulle ruches on white and blue tulips, with leaves of marron velvet outside and halfblown tulips on one side, with nœud of velvet opposite in the interior. DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. PLATE I. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas à disposition; the skirt is covered with flounces; the body full, and sleeves with lace and scroll of velvet ribbon. Bonnet of white lace, with frills. Mantelet of rose-coloured taffetas, trimmed with black fanchon crown of ribbon, ornamented by marabout feathers. Promenade Dress.-Robe of moire antique, with one deep flounce edged by a biais of black velvet, and narrow fringe round the edge, which is vandyked; a corresponding trimsimilarly trimmed; sleeves formed of frills. Capote of apricotming heads the flounce; high body with basques and bretelles coloured taffetas, with flat crown ornamented by ruches of ribbon and flowers. Promenade Dress.-Robe of green taffetas, with jacket trimmed with numerous rows of narrow frills; the sleeves are entirely covered by them, and the skirt is ornamented en tablier by graduated rows of frills. Capote of pink silk and ribbon, with feathers. Child's Dress-Frock of pink popeline, ornamented by several rows of velvet trimmings; jacket body, open in front. Capote of pink silk and marabouts. Manteau of embroidered muslin. Carriage Dress.-Robe of steel taffetas, with double flounces of black lace and taffetas ; vandyked jacket body with plastron and buttons; sleeves of frills corresponding to the flounces. Capote of taffetas and straw. PLATE II. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas; the skirt is covered by flounces, edged with narrow fringe and noeuds, and ends at the sides; tight high body and sleeves of three bells to the elbows, with embroidered under-ones; vandkyed collar, with ends. Bonnet of white lace and pink ribbon. Public Déjeuner Dress.-Robe of broché taffetas à disposition, with three deep flounces, and jacket body with frills. Capote of paille taffetas, with lace lappet ornamenting the brim in coques. Mantelet of green velvet, with revers trimmed with handsome black lace, and heading of a narrower lace, the same width as that round the revers. Promenade Dress.-Robe of amethyst-coloured popeline; tight high body, with basques and revers ornamented with stamped velvet. Capote of fancy straw and ribbon. Walking Dress.-Robe of striped moire, with jacket body, Talma of black silk, trimmed with three rows of ribbon plissé and deep fringe. Capote of paille de riz and taffetas. Walking Dress-Robe of droguet, with flounces edged by a biais of striped silk; high body, with basques similarly trimmed. Pardessus of taffetas, with sleeves trimmed with black lace, headed by a design braided with velvet ribbon. Capote of pink silk, trimmed with flowers and black lace. PLATE III. Walking Dress.-Robe of taffetas in large checks, with high body and pagoda sleeves. Capote of pink silk, with two rows of white lace falling back, and small bunch of flowers at the side. Mantelet of violet silk, with deep frill of the same, headed by a velvet ribbon in feston. Ball Dress.-Robe of pink taffetas, with triple skirts of white lace over; pointed body, with drapery and bouquets of flowers. Coiffure of flowers and velvet. Carriage Dress-Robe of moire, with plain skirt and jacket ornamented by ruches. Sleeves of three bells, scol loped and edged with ruches. Bonnet of white lace. Dinner Dress-Robe of taffetas à disposition; the three flounces cover the skirt; jacket body, with revers and frills; pagoda sleeves, with frills from the elbow. Coiffure of lace and velvet. |