FROM FEBRUARY, 1855. OUR FRENCH CORRESPONDENT. CHERE AMIE, FLOUNCES Continue to adorn the dresses of both morning and evening toilettes, and for the latter are only rivalled by the double or triple robes edged by flounces of rich lace or guipure. Laces for this purpose are made so as to be applicable either for flouncings or to form the double and triple skirt. The dresses of moire are also made now with flounces; they are alternately of velvet and satin, three of each edged by a feather fringe, the bodies with basques similarly trimmed, and sleeves with flounces corresponding to those on the skirt. Black is very fashionable and admissible for all toilettes. Chatelaine bodies will be much worn this season, and are very suitable for the richest materials, when made as low dresses. The only variation from the pointed bodies consists in the small basque attached to the waist rounded off in front and leaving an opening which shows the skirt. This basquine is 80 arranged as to appear only to lengthen the body; on the front are placed rich ornaments rising up in rows appearing to unite the sides, the centre being bouillons of tulle or stomacher of another colour; round the top and waist is a fall of rich lace, the sleeves in corresponding style. The skirts of these dresses are with flounces of lace headed by a plait of pearls, terminating with tassels as deep as the lace. The fashion of the black jackets with coloured skirts has led to the introduction of different coloured bodies; the skirts of rich silks intermixed with black and colours are worn with black bodies, the trimmings being of the colour of the skirt, the noeuds and braces of ribbon corresponding. Some materials are made expressly for this kind of toilette, but the same effect may be produced by trimmings of ribbon. Black taffetas dresses have the flounces edged by deep bands of black frisé plush; the sleeves of these trimmings laid on are also trimmed as well as the basque or jacket. The trimmings to ornament the basques of bodies are various; sometimes a succession of small rosettes of black and coloured ribbon, and the sleeves with crevés or puffs united by rosettes. Robes of white taffetas are made with bouillons of tulle half way up the skirt, and crossed horizontally by wreaths of VOL. 28. green foliage, small pink ruches of crape, and cord of small roses, the foliage being in the centre of the breadth. This is repeated all round the skirt; a tunic of tulle floats over these, edged by roses; body with revers bouillonné, and braces formed of pink liserons. White skirts are entirely covered by bouillons of tulle dotted over with small rose-buds and butterfly noeuds of pink taffetas; the body with braces. Flounces of black lace are worn on skirts of white satin, but the great novelty is the open skirt on both sides which are necessarily bordered by revers, and bouquets of flowers are often added. Under the denomination of ceinture-bretelles, or braces, various pretty ornaments for ball dresses are made of ribbon, lace, feathers, resilles and fringes of all sorts. Some of the prettiest are of ribbon fringed or transparent, as the guipure ribbon; sometimes they are formed of three narrow ribbons united on the shoulders under a bow with five or six ends. They cross at the waist and compose thus six ends, the same behind, and across the centre three or four ribbons are placed fixed in the middle by a rosette or bow. Those made of ribbon edged with blond are particularly pretty, and would look very well on silk or tulle dresses with double skirt; others again are made of wide ribbons, which are embroidered in various ways. Berthes of ribbon are new and very youthful, and pretty with white toilettes; behind they form berthe with the ribbon en cœur, and in front bretelles terminating at the waist by a large noeud and long ends; three rows of ribbon cross the front and support these braces. Black lace caps are worn ornamented by coques of black velvet ribbon; coiffeurs of lace are also made of two rows of lace confined by a black ribbon with long ends drooping behind, and lappets at the sides with bunch of flowers. Fanchons, or lappets, often form very pretty coiffeurs by the addition of a flower. The manteau mousquetaire is a kind of pardessus of black velvet fitting to the waist with double sleeves, one almost tight, the other wide and open. Furs have been used to trim manteaux ; the ermine is exclusively used on velvet, but chinchilla is also a very favourite trimming. The little vestes for indoor wear are frequently trimmed with bands of fur, particularly that of the mousquetaire form. Bonnets with veils attached to the edge are much in request, and bunches of velvet flowers are still in demand; bonnets of velvet with trimmings of satin and lace are pretty; feathers are equally in favour with flowers, whether placed in bunches at the sides or encircling the crown as a wreath, separated in front by a noeud. Pretty bonnets are made of violet satin covered with black spotted tulle; small plumes of feathers at each side shaded in the two colours. Bonnets of plain black velvet are often simply trimmed with two nœuds at each side formed by a black lace lappet, and at the edge a broad lace as veilette, and bunches of moss roses inside. Others, again, are with feathers continuing round the back above the curtain. Bonnets of light coloured satins are covered by a network of velvet, with cord of feathers of the colour of the satin. Bugles are still much in fashion for ornamenting bonnets; and one of black velvet was spotted over with small bugles quite embedded in the material; the feathers were also frosted with bugles; the veil at the edge is also embroidered with bugles; a very elegant one was of pink velvet with white bugles. DESCRIPTION OF THE ENGRAVINGS. PLATE I. Walking Dress.-Robe of popeline with jacket body ornamented with velvet. Talma of velvet embroidered and trimmed with a deep fringe with open heading; a second row forms pelerine. Bonnet of straw and velvet. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas with jacket body, trimmed with bands of stamped velvet, which form bretelles across the back, and continue round the basques, which are open and have a nœud in the centre. The sleeves are of three bouillons confined by narrow bands; the skirt is covered by flounces edged with broad bands of stamped velvet. Bonnet of Terry velvet with white feathers. Dinner Dress.-Robe of lilac taffetas. The body is of a square form, with jacket trimmed with ribbon ruches; the sleeves are of several bells also edged with ruches and small noeuds of narrow ribbon. Head dress composed of lace lappets and flowers. Carriage Dress.-Robe of taffetas; the skirt is ornamented with numerous bouillons, the body and sleeves similarly trimmed. Talma of pink Terry velvet, ornamented by stamped velvet, buttoning up the centre. Bonnet of Terry velvet and lace. Evening Dress.-Robe of tulle in graduated bouillons, the upper ones forming upper skirt, having bouquets of flowers introduced. The body is pointed with berthe of bouillons and flowers in the centre and on the shoulders, covering the short sleeve; the hair ornamented with flowers and velvet ribbon. PLATE II. Promenade Dress.-Robe of mousseline cachemire, with jacket body and flounces ornamented with very narrow velvet forming three scrolls. Bonnet of pink satin and Terry velvet, covered by numerous little noeuds of ribbon. Cachemire shawl. Walking Dress.-Robe of violet popeline with tight high body ornamented with velvet in dice for the sleeves, terminated with a row of the dice; the skirt with flounces similarly ornamented. Bonnet of fancy straw and velvet. Child's Dress.-Frock and jacket of pink taffetas, with pinked flounces. Bonnet of velvet with small wreath encircling the face. Promenade Dress.-Robe of checked silk with jacket of black velvet. Pardessus of black satin with revers of black velvet fastening up the front with bands and buttons. Bonnet of satin and lace. Carriage Dress.-Robe of cachemire; the skirt has two deep flounces ornamented with bands of velvet. Mantelet of narrow silk trimmed with black lace and puffings of ribbon. Bonnet of Terry velvet with plume of cock's feathers. PLATE III. Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire with jacket body ornamented by four rows of narrow fringe put on in a wave; the sleeves are two bells similarly ornamented; the skirt is covered by three deep flounces in a wave, with three rows of narrow fringe. Bonnet of velvet and lace. Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire ornamented with velvet jacket of taffetas with two revers and bell sleeves in vandykes. Capote of satin and black lace with flowers of velvet. Carriage Dress.-Robe of rich brocaded silk ornamented up the sides of the skirt by rows of lace, headed by a ribbon ruche terminated by noeuds of ribbon; the jacket is of velvet trimmed with lace. Talma of moire trimmed with two rows of rich black lace headed by a ribbon ruche; it closes up the front with fancy buttons. Bonnet of velvet and lace. Promenade Dress.-Robe of popeline and mantelet of taffetas, with frillings of the same edged with narrow fancy ribbon. Bonnet of velvet and straw. Carriage Dress.-Robe of moire with flounces edged by a band of feather trimming, the jacket to correspond. Manteau of Terry velvet with Grecian pattern in narrow velvet embroidered above the edge. Capote of satin and lace. PLATE IV. Cloak composed of claret coloured satin, trimmed with black velvet and tassels, and edged with a deep fringe. The lining is of quilted white satin. Habit shirt with sleeves made of cambric, and trimmed with rows of lace on the sleeves, round the collar, and down the front. Promenade chapeau of straw partly covered with lace and quilled ribbon, and trimmed with large bows of purple satin ribbon edged with black, and a bow and ends of black velvet behind. Carriage bonnet of light blue silk and black blond, with feathers on each side, and a bow on the top, cap inside of blond and flowers, with an orange coloured bow on one side. Second bonnet made of lavender coloured Terry velvet and white lace, with a cap composed of pink flowers mixed with dark velvet ends amid rich blond. Fourth chapeau of rose-pink plush, trimmed with blond and wide ribbon on the front and narrow ribbon on the crown, terminating in a bow and four ends. First head dress of satin and blond, with a wreath of roses over the front. Second composed of green velvet and black lace. Morning cap of lace trimmed with bows of cerise ribbon, and ornamented with a white rose on the left side, Evening cap of black lace and purple satin ribbon. DESCRIPTION OF MODEL. The model given this month is of a new style of sleeve, the upper part is tight, to which is attached the deep piece; it is put on in two deep plaits on each side forming fluted plaits. The inequality of the model will immediately show the size and position of each flute. |