del, which is situated on the side next the plain, is a perfect model of its kind. It consists of a fortified heptagon, with ravelins and cavaliers; the bastions have retired orillon flanks; the tower which stands near the ramparts is singularly beautiful, and forms a cross, with an open lantern on the top. This tower, combined with the domes of the governor's house and the barracks in the square, gives a graceful and pleasing appearance to an object, at the best of an uninteresting character, except to the scientific observer. The esplanade, in front of the citadel, and within the city walls, forms a pleasant walk during the delightful summer evenings. It is traversed by a quadruple row of stately elms, whose thick foliage forms a grateful protection from the heat of the sun, which in the summer is excessive. The centre is ornamented by grottoes and by fountains, whose refreshing showers tend still further to cool the air, and though the sculptures do not exhibit the perfections of classic art, they are sufficiently well executed to be agreeable and pleasing ornaments to the walk. The public garden is situated at one end of the esplanade; it is neither extensive nor beautiful, but contains a large collection of small singing-birds. As all executions take place in the esplanade, it is not much frequented by the inhabitants, and the Rambla, though neither possessed of fountains nor so many trees, is preferred by them. This promenade is situated in the heart of the city, and divides it into two unequal parts. The market is held at one end, while the other is reserved for the display of fashion and beauty. The excessive heat in the summer prevents the indulgence of the exercise of walking in the daytime, but the Rambla is crowded in the evening. The opera-house also is situated in this walk; and as all the wealthy families have a box of their own, they pass the evening between the theatre and the Rambla ; the purity of the atmosphere and mildness of the night air prevents their experiencing any injurious consequences arising from the transition from the heated opera-house to the open air, even when only protected by the addition of a mantilla, or lace veil, thrown gracefully over the head and shoulders of the ladies. The Rambla also contains many houses of refreshment, to which the ladies resort in order to partake of ices, sweetmeats, or coffee, &c. Let no one be surprised at this: inebriety is a vice unknown among the Spanish gentlemen and, indeed, among all classes; the temperate Spaniard, though living in a wine country and thirsty climate, rarely slakes his thirst, except at meal-time, with anything but water, flavored with the milk of almonds and a little sugar. Such being the general habits of the people, ladies may enter these places without being afraid of witnessing any impropriety in the conduct of the company assembled.

The building of the Casa de Lonja is extremely handsome, and is a fine specimen of the Doric order; the staircase is truly magnificent, each step being composed of one large slab of marble, and each landing-place of only two. The upper part of the building is entirely devoted to education; and class-rooms are established for the study of design, the classics, the English, French, Italian, and German languages, writing, and mathematics; in short, every branch of a liberal education. The Casa de Lonja stands in the great square, or Plaza del Palacio. The entrance to Barcelona by this square is exceedingly fine: the customhouse, built entirely of white marble, and covered with ornament, the ducal palace, the beautiful palaces of the nobility, the exchange, and the varied style of domestic architecture, with the fine towers of the old church of "Our Lady of the Sea," are all objects of admiration to a stranger. The palace represented in our engraving is less interesting as a work of art than for its historical associations. It was from the windows in the corner that Philip V, acknowledged the rights and privileges of the Catalans after he had gained possession of the smoking ruins of their capital; it was here that Ferdinand halted on his way to Bayonne; it was here that the constitution was proclaimed in 1812; it was here that Colonel Bassa met his fate; and it was here that General Mina, the great Guerrilla chief, witnessed the proclamation of the constitution in 1836, and here, also, that he breathed his last. The circumstance of Mina's having lived and died in this palace, is sufficient to give interest to the spot, for though his character as a man may be charged with cruelty and severity, it can not be denied that the peculiar organization of the Guerrilla bands, their persevering courage and devoted patriotism, may be traced to his effective and incessant exertions.

The college and church of Belem are also situated in the Rambla, as well as the convent of Santa Clara. This building is now, like most of the monastic edifices, converted into a barrack, and is occupied by a battalion of the national guard. The

college was for a long time closed, except to persons educating for the church, general education being discouraged. The present government have more enlightened views, and consider education a national benefit; they have therefore again opened the colleges to all classes of persons. Besides the college of Belem, there is a mercantile establishment at the Casa de Lonja, or exchange; this establishment was founded by the merchants of Barcelona, for the improvement and education of persons connected with commerce or the arts. The school of design, chiefly for mercantile purposes, is well calculated to improve trade by introducing taste and elegance into every branch, while, by cultivating native talent, a premium is offered for improvement. The school of design is lighted by gas, the only establishment which has attained to that improved method of lighting, the theatres and all other public places being illuminated with wax candles or oil, as in England some years back.

The fortifications of Barcelona on this side are incomplete, but workmen are now actively employed in their erection. It is purposed to form an entrance into the square by two splendid gates, whose majestic appearance will considerably heighten the effect. The quays which run around the entire harbor are magnificent, and the mole on which the lighthouses are erected is a work of herculean magnitude; indeed, the entire effect of the entrance to Barcelona from the sea is strikingly beautiful; the castle-crowned Monjuic, the harbor, the city, and the surrounding country, are of the most pleasing character. The position of Barcelona is extremely fine: it lies at the foot of a steep and strongly-fortified hill, on the shores of a small bay of the Mediterranean, and surrounded at a little distance by a semicircle of beautiful and picturesque hills, which close it in on every side. The country around is crowded by the quintas, or country-houses, of the gentry, and covered with their gardens and orchards; numbers of fine convents enliven, with their white walls and belfries, the slopes of the hills, and some of the highest peaks are crowned by religious edifices of various dimensions and for various purposes. Convents, monasteries, nunneries, and hermitages, are scattered over the face of the country in every direction, and in the most conspicuous situations; some overhanging vast precipices, others crowning almost inaccessible mountains, others almost buried in the valleys, yet all uniting to excite the surprise or admiration of the traveller.

The church of Santa Maria del Mar, or our Lady of the Sea, the back of which is seen in our engraving, is one of the principal in the city of Barcelona, after the cathedral. It stands in a small square, leading out of the Plaza del Palacio; and though, like most of the churches in this part of the peninsula, it possesses little external beauty, it has a solemnity of aspect which commands attention. The front consists of two towers, the space between being occupied by the doorway and a circular window. The lightness and beauty of the towers are remarkable. They are octagonal, extremely plain till they rise above the body of the building, when they become arched, having a pointed window in each face. There are two stories thus arched, and a lantern of the same character, but of smaller dimensions, crowns the whole. Only one of the towers is finished, the other being surmounted by an iron framework, which supports two small bells. The body of the building is an oblong, rounded at one end, somewhat of the figure of a tombstone, and not cruciform, as most of the catholic churches are; while another peculiarity is, that the front faces the south. The want of ornament on the exterior is amply compensated within; and though stripped of much of its splendor in the decorations of the various chapels and altars, it retains enough to impress the visiter with the pomp and magnificence displayed in the Roman ritual. The arched roof is supported upon a double row of octagonal columns, and it is surprising how pillars of so small a diameter should be able to support such an immense mass of roof. The principal altar, which occupies the half circle, was once of silver, and richly carved; but the devastating wars, which have nearly ruined the country, have not spared the shrines of religion. All that could conveniently be removed, has either been carried off by the rapacity of the military, or been buried in the earth for a chance of safety. Enough, however, remains, to give some idea of the form of this altar. It was triangular, rising from the floor to the roof in a succession of steps, which, on the great festivals of the church, were crowded with silver candlesticks, bearing wax candles, and decorated with flowers, &c. The table itself is covered with white or crimson satin, according to the ceremonies to be performed, embroidered with gold in the most costly manner. It has been stated by the monks of the collegiate church of

Estremoz, in Portugal, that the embroidery of the front alone of the great altar cost them fifteen thousand dollars, and the other decorations are proportionately expensive. The robes, also, of the officiating priest are embroidered in the most profuse manner, and are made of a silk of extraordinary thickness.

Behind this church, the street leading to the Esplanade is occupied by a market for all descriptions of goods. As in all fortified towns, the streets of Barcelona are narrow and confined; the height of the houses on either side obstructing the light, gives them rather a gloomy appearance; the shops, likewise, have a sombre look; the goods are not exposed in windows, whose immense squares of glass cost as much as the stock within; neither do we find them "selling off at immense sacrifices;" but a well-assorted display, particularly of jewelry, is exposed on each side of the doorway, in neat frames, with glass doors. The street leading from Santa Maria to the cathedral is occupied almost entirely by jewelers and gold-workers; and a neat device is painted over each door, to invite an inspection of the goods within. Before arriving at the cathedral, however, we come to the convent of Santa Clara, in which there is little remarkable but the beautiful tower, formed of a succession of arched galleries, one above the other, to the top; and the view of the city, the harbor, and the sea, as seen from them, is truly charming. The convent is connected with the cathedral by flying buttresses. One of these was hollow, and contained a concealed communication with the church, which has since been filled up. In one of the rooms, the large crucifix taken from the now-destroyed buildings of the Inquisition is preserved. The figure is as large as life, and painted to imitate nature; the countenance is expressive of the character of the tribunal in which it stood, and resem: bles more the features of one of those severe judges who presided at the council, than the meekness of the great founder of Christianity. A few heaps of rubbish are all that are preserved of that once-dreaded institution. The forms of the cells are still visible. They are long and narrow in their proportions, being about eight feet long by about four broad. The door is extremely narrow, so much so as to admit a person, not absolutely with difficulty, but without any room to spare; and no trace whatever of windows or holes, to admit air and light, is discoverable. The roofs are broken down, so that it is impossible to say whether there was or was not some method of ventilation; it may be presumed, however, that there was none, for the hall of the inquisitors being immediately above these dungeons, and level with the street, it is not likely that they would have their deliberations disturbed by the cries or groans of their victims, which must have ascended with awful distinctness, had any ventilator been constructed in the roof.

But let us turn from this unpleasing subject to the cathedral. This fine pile of building is still unfinished; the front is a mere plain wall, with arches painted over the door and windows. Near the eastern end are two beautiful towers, richly ornamented. The figure of this church is the same as that of Santa Maria del Mar, but it possesses more external ornament; the buttresses are exceedingly graceful and ornamental, and the spaces between are occupied by arched windows, of the pointed kind. The cloisters, also, are exceedingly beautiful, and contain a fine fountain. The interior is remarkably grand; the massive roof is supported on fluted columns of a great height, which divide the church into a nave and two aisles; the choir is in the nave, and formed of mahogany, beautifully carved, and some beautiful bas-reliefs of the sufferings of the martyrs, in white marble, let into the woodwork, give it a peculiar and striking appearance. The grand altar is plain but elegant, and the organ extremely fine. This church is completely surrounded by chapels or shrines of the different saints, which vie with each other in the splendor and gaudiness of their ornaments. There are one or two good altar-pieces in this church, though, from the extreme gloominess, all the windows being darkened, they are not seen to advantage.

The bishop's palace joins the cathedral, and was formerly connected by a gate, the towers of which, only remain. In several of the streets, the remains of the Roman walls may be traced, though too few and isolated to enable one to determine the exact size of the ancient city, or even the form. These ruins can only be discovered by a close inspection, being, for the most part, covered by or built into the walls of the modern houses. The private houses of Barcelona are constructed on the same plan as in Scotland—that is, in flats or floors, each floor forming a distinct residence; a common staircase leading up to these different tenements. The rooms are generally large and lofty, and totally devoid of the comforts of home. The hand