high-built house or castle called Anderwicke17 belonging to Mr. Maxwell of the Bedchamber.

Enquireing the way before, how far to Dunbarr: itt was answered itt was 3 miles: I demaunded whether soe farr: he said: 'Yes itt was about a mile from Dunbar': wee observed this husbandrye: the grass, weedes, and wreck18 brought by the sea, and with the tide, and left uppon the sandes, was carried and laid thicke uppon the ground: this used for corne: Here is my Lord Rocksburne house, 19 or castle, seated with (sic) 6 score (sic) of the maine sea: where groweth and prospereth many kinds of wood: the highest thornes. that I ever saw: this I admired: because I have observed all the sea-coastes whereby wee passed allmost an 100 miles: and could nott find any manner of wood prospering neere the sea-coast: Here in the village wee observed the sluttish weomen washing their cloathes in a great tupp with their feete: their coates, smocks, and all, tucked uppe to their breech:

Wee came from Barwicke about 7 a clocke and came to Dunbarr about 12 which is 20 Engl: miles: Itt is nott improperly called Dunbarr: because itt is soe environed with shelfes: barrs: and sands: as there is noe manner of haven, though the maine sea beate uppon the towne, which indeed is nott seated uppon any river: which might furnish itt with a haven, or a navigable channell: onely here is an haven made of great stones piled uppe: whereinto att a spring-tyde a shippe of 100 tun may enter: butt nott without much hazard:

Six miles hence in the sea (though itt bee a farr shorter cutt by land), is the Island of Bass which is here verye conspicuous: a mightye high rock placed in the sea, whereinto there is onely one passage, and that for a single person: This is now fortified, and inhabited by the Lord of the Bass: itt is about one Engl: mile about: Herein are kept sheepe, and some kine, and connies: abundance of fowle breed here: solem geese: storts: scoutes 20: and 20 severall sorts of fowle: which make such a noise, as that you may heare them, and nothing else, a mile before you come to them: These solem-geese (as itt is reported of them) when their eggs are suffitiently sitten, they stampe uppon them with their feete, and breake them: they breed in the sides of the rockes, and there is fowle (said to bee) sold here taken in this island worth 2007. per annum. Here is excellent fresh water in this isle, a daintie pure springe, which is to bee the more

17 There is a plate of Innerwick Castle in Grose reproduced in the History of the Berwickshire Nat. Club, vol. xv, p. 180. It is stated to have been an old seat of the Stewarts and after them of the Hamiltons.

18 Wrack, formerly sea-ware or sea-weed, largely and still to some extent used for manure in seaboard parishes.

19 Broxmouth, near Dunbar, which still belongs to the Duke of Roxburgh.

20 The stort is identified by Mr. Hume Brown in his Early Travellers in Scotland with the scart or cormorant; and the scout with the guillemot.

admired: The Isle of May is nott hence above 3 leauges and itt is easie to bee discerned: wherein allsoe abundaunce of fowle breed: From Dunbarr to Edenburgh wee came this day in the after-noone : itt is called butt 20 miles: butt itt is 25 or 26 miles att least: and, by the way, we observed verye many stately seates of the nobles: One we passed neere unto, which is the Earle of Wintons1: a daintie seate placed uppon the sea: Here allsoe is apple-trees, walnutt-trees: sicamoare, and other fruite trees, and other kinds of wood which prosper well though itt bee very neere unto and within the aire of the sea: In this house the king lodged 3 nights and in this earles chamber att Edenborough, in Mr. Will: Callis his house in the High Streete neere the Cross, I lodged, and paid 1s. 6d. per noctem for my lodging:

About 6 or 7 miles from this cittie I saw, and tooke notice of divers salt-workes, in poore houses, erected uppon the sea-coast2: I went into one of them: and observed iron panns 18 foote long and 9 foote broade: these larger panns and houses then those att the Sheildes: An infinite innumerable number of salt-workes here are erected uppon this shoare: all make salt of sea-water: About 4 miles hence stands Mussleborrow: touching which they have this proverbe : 'Mussleborrow was a borrow when Edenborough was none, and shall bee a burrough when Edenborough shall bee none':

EDENBOROUGH. About 9: clocke: att night wee came into Edenborough, where by reason of the footboyes negligences: wee were putt uppon great straights: and had our lodging to seeke att 10: clocke and in conclusion were constrained to accept of meane and nasty lodging: for which wee paid 1s. 8d.: and the next morneing Saturd: 27: Junii wee went to the Towle-boothe: where are the Courtes of Justice: which are six.

1. The Court wherein meete the Lords of the Privie Counsell, whereof are most of the eminent nobles of the land:

2.

That court, wherein there are 15 judges sitt attyred in purple gownes turned uppe with velvett of the same colour: hereof the President is Sir Robert . 3 As itt is here reported, if any of

those 15 bee absent hence any day: they incurr the forfeiture of and pay 17. a day for absence: The Archbishoppe of St. Andrewes, Lord Chauncellour of Scotland, is the prime man in this kingdome.

3. There is another inferiour court neere adjoyneing hereunto, wherein sitts weekely, and successively every of these 15 judges alone:

1 Probably Seaton house, the seat of the Setons, Baron Seton and Earl of Winton.

1

2 Preston-pans in Haddingtonshire.

3 No surname is given in the MS. Sir Robert Spottiswood of New-abbey was made Lord President of the Court of Session in 1633.

Dr. John Spottiswood, archbishop of Glasgow, translated to St. Andrew's in 1615, Lord Chancellor of Scotland 1635, took refuge in Newcastle, and was dispossessed of his see with other Scottish bishops in 1638, and died in London 26 November, 1639, aged 73.

this court takes onely cognizance of inferiour causes, and of less importaunce and as itt is (sic) seames unto mee is erected in favour and ease of the rest 15 judges: and if any intricate cause, or of greater consequence, occurr: the present judg then propounds unto and consults with the rest of the 15 judges: In this court I observed the greatest rudeness, disorder, and confusion that ever I saw in any court of justice: noe nott the like disorder in any of our sessions. For here 2 or 3 pleade and speake togeather and that with such a forced strained voice, as the strongest voice onely carries itt: yea, sometimes they speake about 2 or 3 severall causes, att one and the same time: which makes an extra-ordinarie disorder, and confusion : soe as noe man breathing can heare distinctly, or understand any thing soe promiscuously spoken.

4.

5.

There is an Exchequer, or court of the kings revenew.

There is a court below under the beforenamed courts, wherein sitt the judges touching crimineall matters and misdemeanours. 6. The consistorie which takes onely cognizance of ecclesiasticall affaires.

In this kingdome the clergie of late extend their authoritie, and revenewes: Arch-Bishopricke of St. Andrewes is Lord Chancellour of Scottland and Regent here:

And as I was informed by some intelligent gentlem: itt is here thought and conceaved that they will recover soe much of that land, and revenewes belonging formerly to the abbeyes, as that they will in a short time possess themselves of the third part of the kingdome: The Duke of Lennox and Marquess Hamilton are possessed of the largest proportion of church-land5: Itt is expected that they should resigne, and deliver uppe, their interests, and rights therein to the church Whose example itt is thought will induce the rest of the nobilitie to doe the like: And to the end that they may carrie some sway in Parliament, itt is now endeavoured (as some here informed me, Mr. Calderwood, and Dr. Sharpe): to restore abbotts, and to invest them in the revenewes, and seales (sic) of abbeyes: hereof they say there are 48 which are intended to bee established, who are all to sitt, and carrie voices in Parliament: Which if itt can bee effected then there will bee allwayes in the Parliament House soe stronge a partye for the kinge: considering those officers that have an immediate dependaunce uppon him: and the bishopps, and abbotts: as that they will be able to sway the whole House:

Divers of the clergye incline this way, and many allsoe are mightye opposite and averse hereunto.

This Saturd: after dinner I tooke a view of the Castle here, which is seated verye high, and suffitiently commaunding, and beeing

5

For the most recent account of the disputes about the tithes and other ecclesiastical property at this period, see Lang, History of Scotland, vol. I, pp. 10-14.

David Calderwood, the historian.

able to batter the towne: this is allsoe seated uppon the toppe of a most hard rock, and the passage whereunto was (as they there report), made thorow that hard and impregnable rocke, which cannott bee toucht or hewed: and itt is indeed a stately passage: wherein was used more industrie, paines, art and endeavour then in any place I have found amongst the Scotts: Itt is butt a verye little castle of noe great receipt, butt mightye strength: Itt is called Castrum Puellarum : because the kings of the Picts kept there virgins therein: Uppon the wall of the castle towards the toppe is this inscription, part thereof guilt: A crowne, and scepter, and dagger placed under itt cross-wise with this supterscription: Nobis hæc invicta miserunt 1067 Proavi: The same armes and inscription is placed uppon the front of the abbey which is the kings house: Outt of the court of this high seated castle there was one that watched, (a souldier in his turne), in a little woodden house, or cabin, which by a whirle-wind was taken, and throwen downe both togeather over the castle-wall, and to the bottom of this high and steepe rocke, and the man nott hurt, nor bruised, save onely his finger putt out of joint: Hence you may take a full view of the scituation of the whole cittie: which is built uppon an hill nothing over-steepe, butt suffitiently sloapeing and ascending to give a grace-full ascent to the great streetes: which I doe take to bee an Engl: mile long: and is the best paved streete with bowther stones9 (which are verye great ones) that I have seen the channells are verye conveniently contrived on both sides the streete: soe as there is none in the middle, butt itt is the broadest, largest, and fairest pavement, and that entire: to goe, ride, or draw uppon: Here they usually walke in the middle of the street: which is a faire, spatious and capacious walke: This streete is the glorye and beautie of this cittie: Itt is the broadest streete (except in the Low-Countries, where there is a navigable channell in middle of the streete) and the longest streete I have seen: which begins att the Pallace, the gate whereof enters straight into the suburbs, and is placed att the lower end of the same: The suburbs make an hansome streete: and indeed the streete, if the houses, which are verye high, and substantially built of stone (some 5, some 6 storyes high) were nott lined to the outside, and faced with boardes: itt were the most stately and gracefull strete that ever I saw in my life: Butt this face of boardes,10 which is towardes the streete, doth much blemish itt, and derogate from glorye, and beautie: as allsoe the want of faire glass-windowes whereof few or none are to bee discerned towardes the streete: which is the

"This looks exactly like the figures 106. According to the legendary chronology of Scottish Kings, James V. (1514-1542) was the one hundred and sixth. Ex. inf. Dr. George Neilson.

The High Street of Edinburgh from the Castle to Canongate and Holyrood.

9 Boulder stones.

10 Query the luckenbooths of Edinburgh, traces of which can still be found in ancient houses in the High Street.

more compleate: because itt (sic) as straight as may bee: This lineing with boardes (wherein are round holes shaped to the proportion of mens heades), and this incroachment into the streete about 2 yards is a mightye disgrace unto itt: for the walls (which were the outside) are stone: soe, as if this outtside faceing of boardes were remooved and the houses built uniforme all of the same height, itt were the most compleate streete in Christendome.

This cittie is placed in a daintie health-full pure aire: and doubtless were a most health-full place to live in: were nott the inhabitants most sluttish, nastye and sloath-full people: I could never pass thorow the hall, but I was constrained to hold my nose: Their chambers, vessell, linnen, and meate, nothing neate, butt verye sluvenly: Onely the nobler, and better sort of them brave well-bred men, and much reformed: This streete which may indeed deserve to denominate the whole cittie, is allwaies full thronged with people, itt beeing the markett place and the onely place where the gentlemen, and merchants meete and walke, wherein they may walke drie under-foote, though there hath been abundaunce of raine: Some few coaches are here to bee found for some of the great lords, and ladies, and bishopps :

Touching the fashion of the citizens:-The weomen here weare and use uppon festiveall dayes 6 or 7 severall habitts, and fashions: some for distinction of widowes, wives and maides: others apparelled according to their owne humour and phantasie: Many weare (espetially of the meaner sort) plaides: which is a garment of the same wollen stuffe, whereof our saddle-cloathes in Engl: are made: which is cast over their heades, and covers their faces on both sides, and would reach allmost to the ground: butt that they plucke them uppe, and weare them cast under their armes: Some auntient weomen, and citizens weare sattin straite-bodied gownes: short little cloakes: with great capes and a broad boungracell comeing over their browes, and goeing out with a corner behind their heades: and this boungrace is, as itt were, lined with a white, stracht (sic) cambrick suite-able unto itt: Young maides nott married all are bare-headed: some with broad thin shagg ruffes, which lye flatt to their shoulders: and others with half bands with wide necks either much stiffened, or sett in wyre: which comes onely behind: and these shag ruffes some are more broade and thicke then others.

This cittie of Edenborough is governed by a Lord Provast (which is equivalent to a Lord Maieor) and 2 or 3 bayliffes: who xequute the office of sheriffes: who as they assume noe extraordinarye state, onely some few officers attending them, soe they doe nott maintaine any great houses, and hospitalities: and when any occasion of greater consequence, and importaunce occurres: they then call unto them, and consult with, as assistaunts, some of those that have been formerly Lord Provasts:

11

Bongrace, a shade or curtain formerly worn on the front of a woman's bonnet to protect the complexion from the sun, New English Dictionary. The Editor has seen it worn in North Northumberland, but there it was and perhaps is still, called an 'ugly.'